Mopar1973Man

@dripley Could be worse we could all buy OEM APPS which should be better but actually its worse off being the logic chip inside to control the IVS states. Timbo's is the best option for APPS sensor. Wells ain't bad but its back to logic chips to control the IVS state again.

Even my truck has a low power band right up to about 20-25 MPH then huge change in power. It's not the APPS for sure its the speed and tach signal for me. Since the PCM had no tie to the transmission. Usually that power jump is what breaks the tires loose being in 4th gear matting down the throttle at 25 to 30 MPH and it off to the races at that point.

Impressive. At least there is now confirmation that 150 HP @ 320 bar is a good combo. That 8 hole should be good for MPG. Tidbit... The winter time offset should be about -20*F from engine oil temp and coolant temp. Still batting good 20+ MPG yet with temps already in the +10*F in the mornings. 62/68/12 would be a good turbo (no exhaust brake). Might need to tweak the fuel map slightly to control smoke.

There is no set voltage for an APPS... Stock or logic IVS APPS required voltage for setting the IVS switch state. That's all. Timbo's APPS uses the angle of the bell crank to set the IVS state. Where a logic APPS like stock will use voltage to state if its idle or throttling state.

Need two mods... This one fixes the AC noise problem completely. This protects the PCM from shorts on the blue field lead.

Bad idea. No need for the any wire mods.

Doesn't mean the injectors are still good. Could of dropped pop pressure, bad nozzle, bad pintle, etc. Injector seated poorly. Smoke is typically weak spray (large droplets).

Heck I've been running back and forth to Nampa. Been moving @Wet Vette up to my place.

Edge Comp could have a boost cooler issue. It could be wiring too. Might check error codes.

What mods? What transmission? Gear ratio? What size tires? All have an impact on how you need to build your tune.

Do the WT ground wire mod. Then upgrade the circuit breaker and charge wire for the alternator. Make sure to do the field wire protection fuse.

PCM software more so. My 96 does this same thing. What is part of the problem is how much fuel you add or don't. This will cause deeper throttle or shallow throttle which changes the TPS value and TV pressure in the transmission.

Sorry I'm taken... The whole APPS sensor is misunderstood for my years. The voltage has ZERO to do with the PCM or ECM. Only the APPS sensor itself to control the IVS switches that all.

My last trip on wheel bearings my air chisel tool did NOT work at all. I spent over 4 hours with a very larger hammer getting the driver side bearing out of the knuckle. Make sure to anti-seize the bearing hole and use a hone tool or similar to clean the hole up. The bearing should fit true but not sloppy loose.

As long as Engine Load is reaching 100% then you made max fuel on your tune. Engine load is the same as CANBus Fuel. Engine load is a 0% to 100% number. The CANBus fuel is 0 to 4095 number.

Won't do a darn thing. ECM and PCM are flashed with software this will not reset anything software wise or correct any problem. It will not wipe out error codes either still stored in memory forever. Check for error codes. Smoke is not a real clue. Like mine blows a bit of smoke on start up every morning. Smoke could be injectors just getting sloppy. Error codes will point to the problem.

To me a gun should never be stored in a vehicle period. My 9mm is typically on my hip. The ONLY time my 9mm leaves my side is when I got to enter a gun free zone. Which typically isn't so bad bad but now with places like WalMart saying Gun Free that is one last store I will not shop in. Personal firearm is like a seat belt. Your not going to get that chance to click your seat belt before an accident. Just like you going to ask the threat, "Hey let me go out to my truck, unlock my storage box and get my gun for protection." It doesn't work that way. A locked up gun is absolutely worthless. Just my personal view...

I typically run as far as 2WD will allow on snow covered roads. Then when I shift to 4WD then I should be asking do I really need to be out here right now? If I install chains I should be turning back to safety. Once the chains come out that is your last trick you can pull and shouldn't travel on through you should be looking for a safe place till the conditions change. Wider tires tend to make for poor traction. Like looking at it this way. If I was to step out in the snow my foot will compact to solid ground. Now if you put on snowshoes you now walk on top of the snow. Basically with 35's you've got snowshoes on and going to float on top of the snow and ice. In all my years I found much better traction on a set of 235/85 R16's (31" inch tires) than any other tire I've ran. I can travel much farther without 4WD and never used chains once in nearly 400k miles. I've still got the brand new set hanging in the wood shed unused. With my current 245/75 R16's the tire is only 10mm wider, but 1 inch short at 30 inches. The only problem is I must turn down the Quad being the smaller tire puts more torque to the ground so it extremely easy to spin the tires. Using level 3 is pretty solid so far.

Personally I would connect it correctly. It might impact things that share that signal since it most likely shared by the ECM and PCM both. Typically lock up switch the relay is pulled and the power is constant to the transmission and your controlling the lock up solenoid with a ground signal on the orange and black wire.

One of the feel reason I hate hydro kit that are pre-bled. Everyone assumes that the hydro's are ready to go out of the package. I would rebleed the system and start over. The hydro's will pull the holder strap with one pedal press. If there is air in the system it will NOT move and the white holding tabs will hold the rod. I've seen this a few times. Just best to remove the entire hydro system again and rebleed as I got the article. Bleed part is towards the bottom of the article.

I've gotta ask have you changed injectors at all? 172k miles is long ways for stock injectors. Typically CR injectors are coming to the end of the life by 100k to 150k miles. This would be my first thought. I would pull 6 injectors and have them bench tested.

Both. Pressure is created to make a longer duration because of the nozzle size. Smaller the nozzle the longer the duration and more pressure. Larger nozzles flow more quickly so the lines pressure is reduced and the duration much shorter. Pump can only squeeze Y amount fuel past a small nozzle it X amount of time.

??? Wow... Maybe it was a good think I switch from South Bend to Valair. Nothing special required for the Valair Dual Disc I installed. Still using NAPA master / slave cylinder.

Kind of like myself the +75 HP DAP VCO (7 x 0.0085) injectors only made about 75k miles and were wore out and popping low. Typically what you'll see is the engine load drops seriously low at about 3% and the idle is excessive high like 850 to 900 RPM's that is pop pressure is TOO LOW. The ECM can't cut fuel morre, so the idle creeps up and the engine load is botttom out because it can't cut fuel. 293 Bar (Bottom limit) <-> 300 to 305 bar (common for aftermarket) <-> 310 bar (stock pop) <-> Greater that 310 bar (MPG and longevity) Like myself I'm popped at 320 bar on my 7 x 0.010 injectors. Touch 22 MPG once in awhile. I'm down to about 7% engine load at idle from the 13% I had originally when I installed so I'm about half life with these injectors. About the first 20k to 30k it stayed close to 11 to 13% but now starting to wear and lose its pop pressure at miles are racked up 1,000 miles per week.

Pretty soon I'll have to create a winter tune. Getting way to easy to break the tires loose.