Mopar1973Man

I'm trying to figure out the PCM reflash? Shifting performance is a AC noise issues of the alternator. Just need the W-T ground wire mod. Then do the PCM protection fuse for the alternator.

Same here I got a Timbo's APPS and Jacobs Exhaust Brake. As soon as the IVS is ground on the idle side then the ECM counts 2 seconds then enables the exhaust brake. I've got a second switch on my transmission stick that allow me to arm instantly on the exhaust brake.

CBD is only half of it. As you can see there is THC, THCa, THCv, Etc. Then CBD, CBG, CBC, CBN, etc. This you can from the actually cannabis plant. Industrial hemp (Marketed CBD) is just the CBD. THC levels are below 1% and so low there is no concern of getting high. I've tried several industrial hemps very mild pain relief no where near as strong as typical cannabis. Works great if your just trying to dull the pain a bit to make it through the day but nearly strong enough to kill the pain. The THC is the part that knocks the pain out. CBD stores are everywhere in Ontario, OR but do not sell any plant matter at all. All edible things candies, snack food etc. You can get tinctures and take it in a liquid form. In any case with edibles the starting time of relief is at least 0.5 to 1 hour out for humans. I've seen CBD for dogs and small dog (toy sized) can get the effect in about 15 minutes.

Yup. Blown out of the manifold. Yeah its spooky when a instant leak happens.

Yup. Go for it.

No idea. Never went inside the RV part. Just did my job and test drove it and parked in the yard.

Very light amber color. Doubtful. She typically in the back country of Idaho.

Exhaust brake is trigger not by voltage but the IVS of the APPS.

Every 60k to 70k miles. 15k miles the filter is still clean. 30k miles the filter isn't even discolored yet. 45k miles the filter showing a small sign of color. 60k the filter is discolored. Still good fuel pressure.

2 micron if possible. typically the Donaldson's Filters I pick up are typically 3 microns.

That could possibly be fixed. Pull the haust housing off. Warm up the exhaust housing in an oven or with a propane torch then dump it in a small bucket of diesel fuel. Let the heat and it soaking hopefully free the shaft and wastegate up. Might take several passes and some light tapping with a plastic or rubber hammer to shock the wastegate rust.

@Threadzy Clean install. That spot is taken on my truck with the exhaust brake control valve.

Had to share on of the locals wanted the diff and transmission fluid changed. I did find another transmission fluid for NV4500. It is a GL-4 75w-90 lube. Limited slip rear end with 75w-140.

Might also read my finding on oil temp.

I opted away from fuses. If you have something go wrong and it blows you got to carry a few extras. At least a resettable circuit breaker you can at least reset many times over. I've seen the old 140A stock fuse blow and some just rotted away or cracked. Fun is when you look and the fuse looks fine but actually its cracked.

When I'm at home at the PC everything is fast... Here I'll dive in a help... Fuse 12 Now you can see everything that is runs.

There is a jump swittch inside the Quadzilla for the MAP sensor. I'm not sure which way is which but one way is early MAP sensor and the hang the jump of one pin is the other series of MAP sensor.

Like myself and @mr.obvious both have the circuit breaker and mounted behind the passenger batter neither is having an issue. Same manufacture as well I've already seen 106°F summer day in traffic and no issues as of yet.

Rear parking brakes are what pull the pedal back up. This means you need to adjust out the slack.

Need a another test shop. New test stands report max voltage, max amperage, max AC ripple, and even a sine wave of the ripple. Most NAPA stores have a quality test stand.

Done. Split out.

Now here comes the fun of pulling the gear then re-index the pump and test drive for a week and then do it all over again till you hit the hot spot. I've been at it on my truck for over 6 months building this tune. At least VP44 is easier to set timing over the p-pump. Still in the end game the timing is correct the fuel usage will be down and the oil temp should be -10°F below coolant temp.

Smarty screen have a bad USB port in the Smarty side. Known to have the solder joint breaking. You'll need to box it up and send it to Smarty for repair. This is a known issues.

First off that what the site is all about is coming together and fixing the problems we find. We all share information and figure out what the issue is and then come to a solution that is fair permanent. Lets start basic with error codes and the fuel pressure while your driving the truck down the pavement. (idle, cruise and WOT). Test for power at the lift pump plug after bumping the starter.

Roughly 4,400 pound in the front, and 2860 on the rear axle. This is empty truck no cargo. Your truck might be a bit more.