Mopar1973Man

Don't grease gun hose does absolutely nothing. The sensor will absolutely fail. Too short and hose doesn't suppress nothing. Yup. Because the hose is rated for 4,000 PSI to 10 to 20 PSI is like a solid brick wall. It just passes the pulse right up the chain to the sender. Again too short to allow for travel to fade the pulsers. Hence why I say 5 foot or more. Also let me know. I can program the warning lights on the gauges as well. I've got the kit for jacking in and programming.

I would do the same thing. I would do work for food or trade.

Again still WAY CHEAPER than Cummins OEM at $70 dollars a piece.

Actually the chain is tight. Its a pain in the rear to get the cover back on. The main rear shaft when you lift the shaft the slack comes right out.

Yes sir. Forward at the transmission was dry. The two case halves where they meet was the leak right on top passenger side.

Nope. Still working perfect.

Typically I just head over to Ontario, OR for tires. Save on the sales taxes in Oregon. Then I've dealt with Tire Factory (formerly Big O Tires) for years. Michael the owner has always done good deals on tires. Most likely go back there as well again. I've also got a friend in Riggins, (Steve Crump) he's been know to get me killer deals on tires as well.

Basically... End to end it should ohm out ZERO ohms. Then end to ground should show infinite ohm to make sure there is no shorts to ground. I would have to say send the VP44 back most likely a bad PSG on top. Who did you buy from for a replacement VP44?

TCC is shot in the torque converter. That should not happen. @Dynamic does awesome work and everything is absolutely spotless and clean. His rebuilds are absolutely worth the price. I got the 46RE rebuilt and upgraded to be more like a 47RE. Upgrade both the direct clutch and the overdrive clutch. Added the oil cooling holes to spray ATF on the clutch packs. Modified the valve body to have firm shifts and upgraded all the other stuff like the levers for the bands.

391k miles. Never had a 5th gear nut problem and never broke the input shaft. OEM shaft I broke at the 3rd/4th shift ring. Now running the upgraded mainshaft. Make sure if you going to tight that again make sure to get the sockets and the torque spec. Don't quote me be I think the upgraded shaft is like 600 foot pounds on the nut. This is why I laugh at all the YouTube videos of guys hammer and chisel the nut on and then tack weld the 5th gear nut. This will not work and will fail again. Still currently using the Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid no issues to date. Working awesome and heading to 150k miles.

Yes, you can reseal the transfer case without removing... Everything out of my way. AirDog 165 removed, skid plate removed, transfer case drained. Once you take off the tailshaft cover. There is a snap ring but there is no holes for the snap ring. It looks like the silencer ring snap ring. I made a tool to remove that snap ring super easy. I took out my typical snap ring tips and took 2 nails and cut them to length. The beat the tips flat and filed then slightly to make them even. Then with a bit of light rubber hammer tapping the back cover came off. For all the years of running ATF+3 in the transfer case it looks good in there. (Yup, I didn't follow OEM specs) The magnet is in the bottom below the pick up screen for the oil pump. Just light graphite dust. No metal per se. The case was sealed with black RTV from the factory. I upgraded from black to Ultra Grey RTV. Lightly coated the edge and then reassembled. Closer inspection of where the leak was at the case is a bit thin looking between the faces. The RTV was gone. This go around I made sure to make that area just a bit thicker with RTV and made sure it oozed out some. I'm leaving the case alone at this point to dry and cure completely before filling with fluid. Project stopped at this point with the case assembled.

Done some digging and getting closer. Robertshaw manufactures that style of thermostat. Cummins... Robertshaw 330 series looks almost the same. Commonly used in racing applications still sold through Summit racing. Now I'm trying to find a contact information for Robertshaw Automotive division. Then to verify the thermostat Cummins has to Robertshaw number if possible. These thermostats are sold for a mere $20 on Summit. This might be the break where Cummins owners could buy $20 thermostat from Robertshaw WITHOUT the Cummins logo and $40-60 price tag.

ECM only. Truck only needs a ECM to run. PCM can fail or be missing and still start and run (drive).

Don't know what to say. Never rebuilt a carb or had anything plugged up from fuel. Always starts every time and never had any fuel system related issues. No stabil, no ethanol free fuel, just use and store as usual. No problems. 2 Stihl chainsaws 3,000 PSI power washer Lawn mower (zero turn) Wood splitter 20 ton 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2008 Honda Rancher 6kw generator 2kw generator 4kw generator Stihl weed wacker I think that all of them. As for the transfer case. I'm going to get that snap ring off the shaft and open it up clean the lip and reseal it. There is ZERO sealant left on the face from the little 1/2" gap I can the sealant is gone. Just a machined flat face, no o-ring, gasket or anything. Just flat machine edge.

At this time the owner does not have plans for AirDog or FASS. He is thinking of upgrading to a 1/2" big line kit from Vulcan and replacing his lift pump. We have a crazy idea to try but I'm not going to tell what we are up to till we find out if it will work or not. Little tip from Vulcan Performance we are going to do some testing on. Just remove the banjo in the bottom and replace with the tapped banjo. That all we did. Then hooked the plumbing to the open port now. We went this route being he's going to want the gauge for a trip to Cally very soon. Just to protect his VP44. No. None. Actually the setup I've got is better lest restrictions. The stock line is 6mm ID and the banjo are even more restrictive. 1/2" is the best. Only a 1 to 2 PSI drop from idle to WOT with 500 HP. 3/8" is going to have more pressure drop than 1/2" from idle to WOT like 3 to 5 PSI drop. 3/8" is OK for stockish setups. More power needs more volume. Best to just go big and not even worry.

Where the case halves come together on the passenger side on top. Not the vent hose I've double check hose and it on the driver side. I don't bother with spending high price fuel to store. Ethanol free fuel is super expensive up here and doesn't do much. Still goes bad too. Just the first tank of fuel is really poor on MPG like my fuel logs on the last tank is like 11 MPG. Mostly idle time, sitting, start move out of the shop and parked in the yard. Next tank will be back to normal again. Should take a peek at my 20+ year old chain saw. Never seen ethanol free fuel. 6kw generator, nope. Lawn mower, nope, power washer, nope. Never had one issue with ethanol fuel. Everything starts as it suppose too. Done several tests on ethanol vs non-ethanol. The only difference is it drives up the cost of operation. Ethanol free fuel typically is about 20 to 22 cents per mile. Versus ethanol fuel as low as 13.6 cents per mile. Not worth it to run ethanol free fuel for the cost of operation. Like biodiesel vs petroleum diesel cost of operation is lower on petroleum diesel (13 cents/mile).

I had so much ATF leaking by this point everything from the transfer case back is covered in ATF soaked dirt. I had to power wash the entire under side of the truck just so it didn't rain ATF on me. Still had a quite a bit of fluid in the case but leaking out the top still. I've got sealant and time today hopefully finish this up. I'm going to leave the Cummins down for now too. I've got other things to do as well. Brake fluid flush, new fan belt, coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change, and rotate the tires as well. When I went down to move the 1996 Dodge the battery was dead. Looking back on the fuel logs it was 4 months ago (April) I got fuel in Little Red. Maybe I should get it a lap or two down to Ontario.

Stopped by a friends house yesterday he was showing off his new Kenwood Stereo in his Nissan truck. I had my arm rest on the roof his truck. A hornet landed on my right wrist near my watch I jumped and swiped the hornet right under my watch band. Talk about all hell breaking loose. I was hoping around attempting to unfasten my watch in a huge hurry. Needless to say I got drilled hard core, but he didn't live long either. That was a clue to go home.

P1689 is no communication between the ECM and VP44. Read over this and check your wiring for damage.

I no longer use any prefilter (sock). They seem to create more issues than the BHAF by itself. I just install the BHAF and then reset my maintenance logs for the air filter. When the mileage comes up then I just replace it period. I don't even worry about blowing it out or nothing. Just chuck it in the trash and install a new one. Yeah I've got a few things to take care of. Cummins is being pull out of active duty and switch to the 1996 Dodge Ram for a time.

PCM is what starts the CCD Network. The cluster is what provides the bus bias voltage for the rest. ECM can run as a standalone and run the engine but can't get any data from or send it to the PCM. Should have 2.49 and 2.51 volts on the CCD Network lines after everything booted up and at rest. 

Today I've started this project. Thought it would be easy but its not. Pull the rear drive shaft. Then remove my AirDog fuel pump. Then drain all the ATF out of the transfer case. I've got the bolts out and the cover started off but no dice. I stopped right there and quit. Checking the FSM and seeing that you have to remove the tailshaft cover and there is a snap ring in the tail area holding at a bearing.

When the grid heater light remain on the ECM detected excessive return flow from the injectors and this is a sign of injector failure is currently happening. Double filter your fuel does help a bunch. So having a another filter before the stock filter will aid in extending the life of injectors. When injectors fail typically its the solenoid side and the fuel pressure can't be held good enough and bleed out the return rail. This allows for the pintle to remain open longer than it should or all the time washing the cylinder walls. Typically they wear out right around 100k to 150k miles. Yeah I've seen people still driving past that but typically now the injector(s) are hanging open and washing the piston rings out. This why the engines typically have excessive blowby by about 300k miles and require rebuilding. Just because its still starting and running good doesn't mean the injectors are working properly. Best suggestion is to at least pull the injections and send them into DAP and they can bench test all them and tell you which ones have failed or going to fail soon.

Might want to tell to the 2012 owner in my yard. Then the 3 others in town with the grid heater light on.