Mopar1973Man

Seriously off the top sounds like a possible set of rings are needed. I would first do a compression test on the engine and see if there is damaged rings or pistons. You have some amounts of blow by which is why the loss of oil and dripping out the breather. Yes I would start with compression test and skip the blow by because we need to know which cylinder is possibly damaged. A good shop might also have a bore scope small enough to fit through the injector hole and be able to see the cylinder walls and see if there is scratches or damaged pistons.

Yeah I'm getting little things done to fix beast up. Yeah my energy and strength are crappy but I manage to get minor repairs done on the truck. Had to share it not like I'm super busy on my retirement.

Holy cow! I just had a phone call from way down under in Australia. It our Ford Conversion with a 24V Cummins. I've got to do a bit of email support to get the info passed along to his mechanic. Seriously like WOW!!! I've got people calling from all over the planet. This crazy Mopar Man is still reaching to far corners of the world with tech support for Cummins Engines.

I had some nasty rust on the tailgate. Idaho is using really corrosive salt this year. This is not to be perfect bit as a stop gap till I am done with my chemo or when I have the funds for the body work. Thanks to Mark he's got a nice palm sander and good assortment of sanding disc's. There where two spots where 40 grit grinder was used to dig at the deep pitted metal. Then using black primer to match the gloss black I bought today. Help bond the new paint to the metal and hopefully stop the rusting process. I've got a few spots on the body where rust blisters are starting and need the blister broke open metal cleaned up and painted to just stop the growth of rust. Again isn't to be pretty or perfect just to seal the metal till I get to the paint process later after my cancer.

There are many secrets I've found regarding tuning on a Quadzilla or using custom injectors which is the tough part finding proper timing where your engine load drops lower, EGTs drop lower, and engine oil temperature drops. TIP: Anything that is creating heat is a loss of power. That horsepower created in motion as it travels from the piston to the rear tires if it's creating heat its is wasted energy converting to heat. The ultimate is not to have any heat. The best we can do is reduce the amount created. TIP: Optimal final ratio for daily drivers is 3.73:1 after tires. Example: Take the stock 265/75 R16 off and pit on a set of 245/75 R16 ties now switches the final from 3.55 to 3.69 after tires. This is reduction on transmission temperature and rear axle temperature.

He's right I didn't pay attention to the front mounted distributor. That is a big block. 383, 400, 413, 426 or 440. My Charger had a 383 Big Block.

Need a weather proof relay like an AirDog I've not had any power issues since 2006 when it was installed.

Nope neither.

Sounds like heavy cruise timing and then your hitting heavier engine loads which it now retarding timing to build boost. Then it engine load drops and the cruise timing kicks in again. SECRET: IAT temperature below 80°F ECM will add roughly another 4 degrees of timing. Warmer intake air works way better than excessive cold which is kicking that excessive timing in. MyQuadzilla I'm running right near 29°BTDC at 2500 RPM at 82 MPH. But I limit my maximum cruise boost to 5 PSI or less. Your over advancing why the knock. SECRET: If you monitor engine oil temperatures you can find your optimal timing but you need a Quadzilla to do this. So optimal timing your engine oil temperature should be 30°F cooler than engine coolant. I'm running a 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins I see 200 to 210°F coolant temperature and engine oil top out at 175°F so all my fuel is burned in the cup of the piston and little flame front on the cylinder walls. If the timing is wrong there is excessive flame on the cylinder walls the coolant near the oil cooler is warmer and engine oil temperature will rise because the fire isn't at the right time. Trans Temp on the display is engine oil. Coolant will rollover to -40°F when coolant is greater than 204°F.

Whole article in the database... you need to wonder over and do some reading... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/w-t-ground-wire-mod-simplified-r574/

Do you have a PCM noise filter installed?

When you have too advanced timing the fuel is lighting off and starting flame front on the cylinder walls which in turn heats the cylinder coolant jacket. Now the engine oil temperature will rise because there is too much heat from the cylinders and now the oil cooler can't unload heat into a warm coolant jacket. When your flame is created in the bowl of the piston you notice there is no flame contact with the walls and the coolant temperature is going to be cooler around the cylinder walls. When I see the engine oil temp rise to coolant temperature I know I need to drop 2 degrees of cruise timing and I'm good to go in about 5 miles drop to about 175*F with my 200*F thermostat so then let on knowing the changes I've got to do as the weather warms up and cetane starts to drop. Reverse can be true too being too retarded can start a flame front on the cylinder wall. As the piston starts down and expanding the front on to the walls as the piston is traveling down. TIP: Optimal intake manifold temperature is between 80 to 140*F - Cooler temps just degrade MPG and require retune to stay up with the changes of fuel and environment. Tip: The optimal cetane is 40-43 on these trucks unless in winter climate then 45-47 is required. Adding more cetane does not improve fuel. More cetane you add the lower the BTUs become for the fuel. Keep your cetane as low as possible at all times. Coolant should be 190*F Thermostat. 180 Thermostat is too cold for our 24V because of the valve design it cools down way easy. This is why I went to 200*F thermostat being I've got temperatures down to -20*F this winter. Intake manifold heat is a requirement to make these Cummins run in the 20's MPG wise even at minus temperatures. SECRET: Fuel table shouldn't rise above 100% in your cruise state range. Example my truck to climb a 7% grade at 65 MPH needs about 13 to 14 PSI of boost. My fuel table rises above 100% at 15 PSI of boost. If I dig into the throttle I have all my power there at the ready. As well as cooler EGT's

I do my timing based on oil temperature and engine load. Optimal timing the engine oil will be 30 degrees cooler than coolant. Even running 200 degree 6.7L thermostat I'm right at 172 to 175 degrees engine oil temperature. No you can no share sensors. You must install second sensors for both EGTs and fuel pressure. This will skew the actual numbers if you do share.

Oh my dual piston a/c compressor. Wow!

Alternator is on the passenger side then the power steering pump was low on the driver side of the block. If I could see the bracket I could assemble it easy.

Did you change your registered color?

Interesting...

That sucks. Might be time to upgrade away from the China made Cummins gasket produced by BLK, China. Felpro or other name gasket. I've had a Cummins head gasket delaminate.

As I sit here playing Fable on XBox... You have no idea how cold you get without hair for the first time. Wow it's shocking how cold I feel constantly. Thankfully I have my assortment of wigs which feels good and warm now.

Kind of nice to run with the ricer down I84 for a few blasts. I'll admit I lost being to bad value in my tune setup. Now I'm ready I'll put the hurt on a ricer. Lol But yeah set the cruise and enjoy the ride.

Why I don't like being down there. Treasure Valley people are crazy drivers and can be rather stupid too at times.

I would have to see the wire colors to know what I'm looking at. I would just pour over a few wiring maps to see what the plug is for.

Stubble sucks on my black and blue wig. It snags on direction and slides the other. With all the loose hair on my bed I've got to wash everything to get the the hair of everything. At least I can wash my head with out the fallout and plugging my bathtub drain. The other problem of being bald is my head loses a lot of heat man its cold without hair or a wig on.

As of today I'm now bald. Which im glad i have got my collection of wigs.

Just an update since posting this almost to 481k miles and counting.