Mopar1973Man

After replacing two clutch because the owners installed ceramic clutches and seeing them only last 40k on both trucks and eating the pressure plate in both trucks. Not a good clutch in my mind. Friction disc was like brand new in both cases.

Interesting to say the least. I'm just sitting here thinking about all the people that bought the RAD box for TQ Management issues.

But it's not going to change the performance nor lube or cool it any better. Return port is on the left. So raising the fuel pressure above 20 PSI is not going to improve anything.

Interesting idea. Personally, I couldn't give up the center vents. I'm looking towards a flip down face stereo in the future.

My money is on this connection. I bet if you cut the fitting off and just hose clamped it temporarily it would solve the problem. Those fitting even back in the AirDog days in the early 2000's had issues.

I'm not sure what kind of connection fittings you are using. I'm using strictly Parker push lock JIC fittings. If you got any kind of Quick Connect fitting that will be part of the problem. The newer AirDogs I known use Quick Connect Fittings and are know for the o-rings to roll back and start an air leak only while pumping. Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performace about this he can explain it.

No change. I'm already in that position now. It has no effect on pressures.

As for the sump idea... At any rate the seal or o-ring will fail eventually on that sump. Sure would suck later in life that sump seal is no longer manufactured. Then end up trying to patch a massive hole in the bottom of your fuel tank. I've already had two people down this road and fought to replace the fuel tank.

Go to a true Alternator Shop. The report back the full load AC ripple voltage.

What was the final AC ripple voltage?

I cut my straw flat on the bottom with the thickness of a single quarter coin. I lightly notched the tip with an angle grinder. I did all my measurements on an EMPTY fuel tank this way as the fuel weight will bow the tank away from the straw tip. This way as the fuel tank empties it will pull the bottom up towards the tip of the straw.

If you are using your truck offroad at all I would steer clear of any sumps. If you hook that sump its game over for the fuel tank. Finding replacement fuel tanks are rather tough these days.

Might just consider upgrading to 4" exhaust that's all.

I would suggest the draw straw. I'm still using my 12 year old AirDog old school draw straw without issues. Matter of fact I rolled into the fuel station with a 1/8 of tank.

Would you mind contacting @pepsi71ocean and getting this information added to the database of ECM rebuilders? This would become very helpful to other Dodge Cummins owners that have failed ECM and needs it rebuilt. Nice to know there is several rebuilders out there that actually do good work!

I've got the same thing but no extra fittings really. Just the two male JIC fittings for the Carter. No it's not mounted on the block. It would hang in the AirDog location. Just swap power leads. But my AirDog 150 has been running non-stop for 12 years now. I've long given up on the secondary lift pump long ago.

Dang... I thought it would be some sort of data within the actual App itself. Oh Well...

Absolutely! That would be awesome if Quadzilla would add that.

Ok. Now it's coming together. It's hard to use a setting if you don't understand the information it's using and from where.

Ok you've lost me again. I'm trying to figure out what setting are being used against this Timing Reduct setting. I know the Max Load Timing Offset is only a 0 to 3* limit. So where are you getting 5* at? Are you talking about Low PSI Timing Reduct that is a 0 to 5* span. I'm trying to get the setting that this works against and understand how it works correctly. First lets list out the variables this actually works with. Then let work with how the math is figured out.

@Me78569 I'm going to check and see if I understand this option correctly. Basically, Timing Reduct Scaling basically affects the Max Load Timing Offset vs APPS Sensor. So if I set the Max Load Timing Offset to 3* and then the Timing Reduct Scaling to 50%. so by the time I hit 50% on the APPS sensor, the timing should be maxed out on the performance side.

IIRC the Quadzilla was still functional and working correctly just the iQuad app had given up. Oh Yeah... Props to you @Quadzilla Power you finally got the menu icon fixed...

Way too many people think there is something special about the NV5600 vs NV4500 the gearing is nearly the same there is only an extra gear down around 25 MPH. Other than that the 6 speed is no different on the highway from the 5 speed. Look at the top two gears. I'm typically in 1.00:1 (Direct Gear) by 30 MPH. So as for the clutch issue if you have a 5 speed and upgrade to South Bend Clutch you'll end up getting a 13 inch flywheel. So stress levels between both transmissions are the same it just a matter of do you have the old 12.25 or the 13.00 inch flywheel and how much input power are you placing on the flywheel. As far I as I know the 6 Speed typically had the 13 inch flywheel. I would still order a full kit including the flywheel if I was to replace your existing clutch. If you opt for re-using your old flywheel have it surfaced again and checked for true flat.

At this point all current with the app and the flash there still is a tune loading issue. Like I had my phone in my truck and iQuad fired up started the truck backed up to my trailer. Shut down the engine hitched up. Then started again to move not more than 20 feet to shut down. I caught the tune loading midway and the app hacks like this forever never resets. If you restart the truck it hung like this till you shut down the truck and the app and refire up like normal then its fine again. Then I found another on my way back home from McCall today. Just got done do about 90 MPH 3 car pass and looked down and the iQuad crashed. Of course, I'm not going to fill out details for the app crash while unwinding from 90 MPH. So, I restart the app and nothing. Shut it down and restarted 3 times nothing. Then got smart and cycled the Bluetooth radio off and on again. iQuad fired right back up. So there is an issue with the iQuad and Bluetooth.

First off I would remove the alternator and have it bench tested for AC ripple as most shop would call it. Verify your power first. Now I would consider having the ECM flashed "may, just maybe" the software can be reset and resolve the issue. If there is any issues the DRBIII tool at a Dodge dealer should be able to spot issues. If the ECM needs to be rebuilt there is a list start here on the website by @pepsi71ocean for good ECM / PCM rebuilders.