Mopar1973Man

You find out that the special tools will cost a small fortune to buy. Like I was planning on rebuilding my transmission but the two sockets alone for the 5th get nut are in the HUNDREDS of dollar range. I still have to order bearing pullers and other special tools. I nearly doubling the cost of the rebuild just buying the tools. So for a bit over $1,500 I got my NV4500 rebuilt with fresh 5th gear (inner hub was worn), updated mainshaft, fresh bearing and fresh carbon syncros.

No tools. My survival bag is behind my driver seat with food, water, clothing, fire, first aid, etc. I don't worry about tools for fixing the truck but I do worry about my own survival or my passengers. This why there is more survival stuff in my truck than tools or parts. I live in an area where average 911 call is 1-2 HOURS. Tow truck could be longer. To make things more challenging there is no cell coverage where I live. So you might have to walk to cell service to get help which I've done before walking upwards of 7 miles. Every failure I've had required more parts than tools. Breaking my mainshaft. Not something that you keep laying around the bed of your truck is an extra NV4500 transmission is it?

Any fuse that is keyed hot. Take a test light and test for fuses that light up with key on and go off with key off.

Big Bang Injectors (BBi) are sold by flow rate but they are all CR injectors. @LegendaryKing I sent a PM over to Brian at SmartyResource to get his attention and help you out on getting the product you need and possible hooking you up with tuning information.

Normally I don't bother with ohm test I just watch the IAT temps which typically +40 degrees over outside temp. So today the outside temp is 40 degrees so my IAT is at 78 degrees which is just fine.

How many miles on the injectors?

1 inch isn't anything... Even comparing to me... Still only 1 inch different than me but I've got way less stress on the track bar... So 285's are not gaining you a whole lot of ground clearance... Yes, 235's are just 1mm taller than 265's. Just 1.1" narrower. This gives me better traction in the mountains because of the more weight per square inch of contact are under the tire. Where wider tires give more floatation on soupy mud.

97 is a P-pump and don't have any cold start idle for them so yes its normal to give throttle to start a 97 Dodge cold. This was resolved in 1998.5 with the VP44 where the ECM kicks the timing up to 20* BTDC and ramps up idle speeds based on ECT temperature. Once warmed up the timing falls to 12.8* BTDC. Something P-pump can't do.

No. Typically the only clue you get is a hard starting the engine runs as normal no change in smoke typically.

Yeah and no. If its the grid heaters then the load is pulling between 95 to 190 amps on a 140 Amps just with the grid heaters. Then you stack on the dual stereo amps now your well over the stock alternator limits of duty. So this why I suggest going up in alternator or remove the grid heaters as a band-aid. Still this will not fix the diode issue currently happening there is no magically cure that will fix burnt diodes. So to keep the stock alternator you'd have to ditch your stereo amps and the grid heaters at the bare minimum.

This might be good time to talk to @W-T about abandon the stock alternator and head upwards to a quality alternator like he's done being he powering high power ham radios. The stock alternator tend to be dirty power and the diodes are marginal for hold barely the truck without grid heaters but fo you have all that extra lighting, dual stereo amps, grid heater then alternators diodes are going to fail quickly.

As far as I understand the same data logging that CR engines have we'll have just with the parameters that VP44 provides.

Last truck in my yard lost $6,000 worth of engine after #6 injector took piston and ring out for #6 cylinder. Need to be bored and sleeved. This all happened with the factory injectors at 112K miles on the clock. Factory injector stuck open hosed the rings and ate the cylinder. Most people don't take the warning signs of the hard starting serious or the grid heater light always on Dodge's way of telling you that you have failed injector(s). I've got another one I continue to warn the owner to park the truck because the grid heater light is on. Doesn't listen though. When he eats the engine he'll be all pissed off.

Still, remember to test the alternator for AC noise. If the diode are already bad the ground mod will not fix bad diodes in the alternator.

You listed the magical track bar killer. Now if the tires were smaller the track bars last longer. I'm also in the mountain and travel the same type of twisty roads and use my truck off road. I'm the only weird one that went down in tire size from the factory equipped. I went from 265's to 235's.

Swipe left or right it will pan to different gauge layouts.

Did you test your wiring and determine which sensor or lead is has the short? As for the ABS computer, it can be rebuilt for $130 in Moscow, Idaho at https://modulemaster.com. Really great company and warranty for 5 years. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

That's because of the tires. You need to have the ABS reprogrammed for the revs/miles for that tire size. Also double check all 3 sensors (replace if needed). Then the rare thing is to have a broke tone wheel. I had my right front break the spot welds and the tone wheel would spin. Gearing will fix that. Talk to @Dynamic here he's our Dodge transmission expert and builds a killer transmission. Being I've a got a 46RE in my 1500 from him and it a mean little transmission.

I would consider the 4.88 gears because at 65 MPH it would be right at 2K on the tach. Towing that would be top of the torque curve and tow like a dream.

Then I would have to suggest that you jump ship and head over to https://smartyresource.com/forums/ and ask over there. I know that none of the staff will suggest any tuning but the rest of the forum members should be able to help out. You can ask @AH64ID he's a big Smarty Tuner guy and might be able to help out.

No. You must remove the Smarty tuner module set up the PC software program your tune and flash it back to the Smarty tuner. Quadzilla is Live. If you make the changes on your cellphone or mobile device the tune becomes active INSTANTLY. No again this is all done in PC software on your computer at home. Again you plug into a USB cord to flash your tune to the Smarty tuner. Now on the Quadzilla this is live where if you can safely plug in a change of variable it will flash the tuner as you drive. Quadzilla will show timing in real time. Both tuners have data logging ability. Just there base tune maps that's all beyond that it's up to you. MM3 would be without tunes at all.

Bingo... Absolutely correct.

Smarty Touch (60 HP tuner) https://smartyresource.com/store/product/39-smarty-touch/ Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP tuner) http://quadzillapower.com/products/adrenaline/adrenaline-with-iquadbt-for-android-devices/

Even more in depth. I'm supposed to be doing work with SmartyResource on building up tech tips and so for 24V Cummins. But my Smarty went back to Portland to be looked at (no communication issues). It way more in depth over the Quadzilla. Quadzilla is much easier for newbie tuner vs Smarty Touch which takes a lot of consideration before just tweaking the tables. Again all these tunning options go away as soon as the VP44 gets swap with VE pump. Then you'll blindly fight tuning and expensive tools for timing and constantly getting dirty working on the timing all the time.

I would do the gears first. Then the whole tuning aspect will change so don't do any injectors or turbos till you get the gearing done. I'm betting the turbo(s) you got now are too big.