Mopar1973Man

I took a piece of rubber hose split it lengthwise and just zip tied the rubber hose on the A/C line to prevent rubbing. Then for the heat shield... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8110

Yes sir... I was facing the airstrip. Very quiet place never heard a single plane in the entire time I was camped there in his driveway.

The set I got a while back fit just fine. Maybe things have changed? I just thought of something if you have some Home Depot orange degreaser spray the inside of the boots it will make them super slick. You should be able to shove the steel tube in deeper making up for the excessive length.

Sure knock yourself out. Easier just to copy the link and paste it to someone.

The filter oil isn't the problem. The gunk that makes it through the filter because the filter doesn't filter out the gunk.

Nope, the water hammer killed the fuel pressure sensor. You'll need a new fuel pressure sensor and relocate the sensor away from the VP44. This is one reason my fuel pressure sensor is mounted near the ABS module this gives over 6 feet of tube run away from the VP44 and pulses fade with distance. I'm sunning an ISSPro snubber and a needle valve which the needle valve has no purpose other to close the line if a leak occurs.

Am I going to assume you installed the fuel pressure sensor at the VP44?

BHAF will last 100k miles without ever washing the filter. $50 bucks or so and cost way less than any other washable filter. The other problem is what is the filtering micron rating of any washable when you install it? What is the micron rating after 5 washes or 15 washes? When do you know that the filter is not doing its job properly? Typically the answer to the last question typically gets answered when the blow by the engine is too high to start in the morning. At that point it's too late the rings and cylinder walls are gone.

After working for SmartyResource and building there Policy violator listing and doing some research on eBay and Amazon sellers I will not buy any stuff for my truck from these people. Most of these sellers on eBay and Amazon don't even have a simple contact information. No phone number, no mailing address, no email, not even a website. So now if you have warranty issue your screwed and no one to contact no company name to back up the purchase. I say like the rest go over to DAP and talk to Jacob tell him that I (Mopar1973Man.Com) sent you.

@trreed personal truck.

They are all right here. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

My OEM clutch was like that but I caught it early before damage was done. Just replaced it with a South Bend Clutch.

Injector never fired on the dead cylinder. Just like if your run 3 CYL high idle. No damage will happen.

Make sure it's exactly the same there is over 52 different versions of ECM per year! My last alternator only lasted 4 months. That doesn't mean anything now test the alternator for AC noise levels.

Be glad you couldn't crimp or seal the line off. I think if you dead headed the VP44 on that line (hydro-lock) the pump it would of broke the rotor plate in the pump.

Test the alternator before using it. $100 for bit more you could get a new stock alternator. As for the ECM there is no new ECM any longer you have to have your rebuilt.

That condemns the ECM it is failing. This also points out there is excessive AC noise from the alternator.

Like I'm in the same boat. 5 Speed transmission, 3.55 gears and tires measure out at 99.7 inches and it shows +2 high on the Quadzilla (67) vs Speedometer (65) and the GPS (65).

Instantly with the key being turn on? Any delay time wise?

I know the feeling. Seems like all you do is beat the trash out of the truck day in and day out. Then when you do get time to give it a bit a love it seems too little too late most times. That rare time when you do hit the timing right... Oh Boy it's like major pay off.

@Me78569 oh come on tell everyone who's going to get the truck.

The thing that I'm learning is parts degrade over time you might not notice the changes over time but they are happening. What woke me up was the fact that I gave in on the tie rod ends and replace them. Now that I've replace the tie rods and had it realigned I'm totally shocked at how the truck drives now. Whole new animal. Like driving a sports car now. Handles wonderfully! This 336k miles adventure I've been on has taught me many things. Every lesson I learn I try to pass on to other Cummins truck owners. Sometimes you have to think outside the box and use a bit of brain power to figure out the puzzles. Like my current puzzle is alternators. I'm like many other people here I plan on running my truck till there is nothing left of the old beast. I'm planning on crossing the 500k milestone for sure. Just for fun some of the long-lasting stuff I had to replace. 2 VP44's - 50k and 243k miles Ball joints currently - 157k, OEM set 185k miles OEM Tie Rods - 335k miles AirDog 150 - 286k miles (12 years old!) Unit bearings OEM - 150k miles, 155k miles on the second set One set of brake pads 185k miles Rear calipers 295k miles There are lots more on my truck that is factory original yet.

The answer to better vehicle longevity and MPG's is smaller and lighter tires and driving like an old man, been proven again and again. There, I corrected for you.

I know who is going to get it... Not Me...

Been there done that! It's about 5-6 hour trip with the RV then spent two days camped in his driveway.