Mopar1973Man
Owner
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
-
Well I'm over that hill and back to normal life. Thank Gawd for putting away small nest egg for this repair. -
Going to Waremart and grabbing beer myself. Only problem nobody wants to drive to BFE Idaho. A/C work I've been doing it as a rolling shop for about 5 years. Last thing I want to do reclaim some of these system with black death then you contaminate your captured freon. Rather vent it off and use clean freon and fresh PAG oil. Not someone's reclaimed junk.
-
Kind of like I use only greaseable because of the fact of the short lifespan non-greaseable have. I get roughly 100-150k miles from greaseable u-joints. Non-greaseable u-joints I get only 20-40k from them. Being every 7k miles with my oil change I push the old grease out and new grease in. So far with all my offroad adventures and trailer towing I've NEVER broke a greaseable u-joint. With all the corrosive stuff on the highways is good to do this offen. Heck, I've got close to 100k miles on this set of u-joints.
-
I've got one 25 foot. I needed over 150 foot of snake for this problem. Not to mention as I learned today that a snake can be quite damaging too. If you have old clay pipes the snake has been known to rip them apart. Modern ABS plastic or cast iron your pretty safe. I remember we had some old clay pipe but wasn't sure if any was still left in the system when the septic rebuild occurred. Not to mention the high-pressure wash that ASAP used to power wash out the drain pipe used a Hotsy pump that raised the water pressure up so much it actually heated the water and made it capable of cutting through all the grease in the pipes. Something a snake can't do. He was also smart enough to put a camera down first and verify what he's chasing. Again after seeing the camera and it constantly pushing along a wad of old grease we gave up after only 15 or so feet it was just too bad to even see. After he was done power washing the lines 50 foot down the main line, not a problem it was clean as it could get. The power washer flaked off a lot of old rust scale. So we need to use lots of water to push that debris out.
-
I look at it this way every time a vehicle out here hits a deer or elk the first thing that is dumped is the freon. I'm sure that if there was such a big issue about freon it would of never been used in vehicles knowing every vehicle that has a front collision is going to lose all its freon instantly. Not to mention for sale to anybody with cash in hand which can be purchased in any auto part store or even Walmart. Another weird tidbit about R143a Freon... From Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane Uses 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane is a non-flammable gas used primarily as a "high-temperature" refrigerant for domestic refrigeration and automobile air conditioners. These devices began using 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane in the early 1990s as a replacement for the more environmentally harmful R-12 and retrofit kits are available to convert units that were originally R-12-equipped. Other uses include plastic foam blowing, as a cleaning solvent, a propellant for the delivery of pharmaceuticals (e.g. bronchodilators), wine cork removers, gas dusters, such as Dust-Off, and in air driers for removing the moisture from compressed air. 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane has also been used to cool computers in some overclocking attempts. It is the refrigerant used in plumbing pipe freeze kits. It is also commonly used as a propellant for airsoft airguns. The gas is often mixed with a silicon-based lubricant. So R134a Freon is used in Airsoft Guns, Canned air for cleaning your computer, etc. I hardly doubt that R134a is harmful to the environment nor a problem if dumped in the atmosphere. There is a stigma of the past R12 and R22 that was hazardous and would cause serious environmental issues and health issues. R12 Freon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlorodifluoromethane R22 Freon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorodifluoromethane
-
Eat more Jalapeno's that will fix that problem.
-
My old DiPricol gauges went 10 years. Now I'm on my ISSPro EV2 gauges I think 3 years now.
-
Naw... But I was fretting rather well trying to figure out a solution to a nasty problem.
-
That is being very honest. Got home from Saturday's run to dialysis with MoparMom and it was snowing on our way home. Not bad but glad to be home for the weekend. Got up Sunday morning sat around working the website thought I'll jump in the shower and get started today. About 5 minutes into my shower the water started backing up. Oh No! So I jump out and grab the plunger and give it couple good hits and the black soup came back up another not good sign. So I got dressed and started calling around and found a company that does drain cleaning. Come to find out he's in the southern part of the state doing another job. He said Monday at noon. Monday at 11am I'm calling to verify with him and find out he's stuck in a traffic accident and the highway is closed. So he shows up at 3pm and gets started. Well found out the big problem is the drain lines had over 54 years of grease build up. The main lines were necked down rather small. After 3 hours of power washing my drain lines they are clean now and flowing good water. $750 bill for this adventure. So between not being able to wash dishes, clothes, flush a toilet its been a rather crappy weekend.
-
Time to test the alternator for excessive AC noise and then contact an ECM rebuilder to test and service your ECM and see what's going on.
-
Still wrong. If you pull the fuse the circuit is OPEN. Now touch both red and black probes to the contacts in the fuse socket on DC Amp and you should see the current draw for just that circuit. When you see the circuit that is drawing heavy load you'll know what you have to deal with by looking at the power distribution layout in the articles. You should never bridge a fuse with any metal or wire. You opening the circuit to isolate the loads and measure that's all.
-
You are going at this the wrong way. Systematically pull each fuse and measure the Amp Draw of each fuse socket. Now you know which circuit is drawing that heavy load and can isolate what is going on.
-
Simple there is less than 0 PSI in the system. If you heading towards a vacuum the system is empty. Hook it up and open the lo pressure valve with the vacuum pump hooked up on the center yellow hose. The blue line is the lo pressure and the red line is hi pressure.
-
Same type of kit I've got. Little 1/3 HP vacuum pump and manifold gauge set.
-
@AH64ID Got any suggestions for this 3rd Gen owner?
-
Thermostatic heater all embedded in the filter housing.
-
IiRC 60*F. Non computer controlled.
-
I've been trying to make people feel at home like one big happy family. Newbies are exactly that new to the Cummins Diesel world it would rude to just tell them to "Go use the search". Do they even know what they are searching for? Do they even know what has failed? Most likely not. Everyone here attempts to the best of their ability to aid whoever is need assistance. If one person doesn't know they will refer you to another person that does know what to do.
-
Quadzilla Adrenaline - Light Throttle Load Limit I've personally seen a lot of confusion in regards to proper setting of this value. The first thing is to find a piece of highway that is quiet with little traffic and with a speed limit of 65 MPH. Now find a piece of that highway that is flat as possible you can double check this with a GPS. Now that you have your test bed for at least a good mile. Make sure you mark your start and end of the highway so your testing is accurate. Now you want to reach highway speed of 65 MPH before you reach your test highway. Now set your cruise control to 65 MPH. As you cross over your test highway at your cruise speed take notice of the engine load percentage. Be aware that changes in timing setting will impact this setting. If your getting closer to your correct timing you'll notice your cruise load will continue to go down. If you are going too far retarded or advanced in timing you'll see the engine load rise you know that you are going the wrong direction. Proper setting of this value you should notice the vehicle reach a small grade or hill and the engine load will rise over your threshold and timing should fall and the boost should build rapidly. What is the correct number load percentage each vehicle and fuel system is different like my truck with +75HP (VCO 7 x 0.0085) injectors my 65 MPH cruise load is right about 23% I've got my load limit set for 25%. Stock injectors might have a much longer duration than my +75HP so your percentage will be higher. This why you need to do the highway measurement find your load limit percentage. As for testing speed I suggest anything between 55 and 65 MPH no higher or lower. Do not attempt to get get the Quadzilla to hold cruise timing beyond 70 MPH after this point it should flip-flop in and out and may just stay out of cruise timing. Like my truck even with my low drag I can reach cruise timing at 80 MPH but I can't hold it for long.
-
Yes. I've got an article for that. No. The key is stamped with a number and so is the case of the pump. So you can order replacement keys if needed. There is other factor like worn injectors or worn injection pump that could produce the low MPG. The only problem is the only clue we've got right now is the P0216 code and possibly of a timing issue. Still highly suggest having the alternator tested too.
-
Injection pump issues. I would collect on the warranty of that injection pump. Did a shop install the pump or did you install it? Was the key lined up before torquing the shaft nut? I've seen sloppy installs where people shear the key off or plain out crush it because it wasn't lined up. Possibly a ECM issue and alternator AC noise issue. I would suggest testing the alternator for excessive AC noise. Do you have any delays for the WAIT TO START light? Does it come on instantly with the key?
-
No fix. This is normal because of the ECM flash. As ECT is cold temperature the oil pressure will show higher. Then when temperature goes up to operating temperature then it goes down again. But checking my actual oil pressure against the Gauge isn't to far off from actual really.
-
Quadzilla project truck...???
-
Here is the LMC truck... http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=45
-
Took me a bit to remember where I started out with my plugs and stuff. Try these two places. Casper if you can shot a picture of the plugs and socket the guys there are typically pretty good about finding a mate for the photo. http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/ https://www.mouser.com/
