Mopar1973Man

May I ask what other variables you need? There is also an "if then" statement between the 2 examples above. IF engine load is LESS than cruise timing load THEN... Math here is additional timing... IF engine load is GREATER than cruise timing load THEN... Have to watch the math here is reduction of timing...

I'll agree. The part of the problem is the secondary bulb reflector isn't all that great its a tall but narrow band of light. This is what is helping to give the distance but not wide enough. So now driven with OEM Stock, Sport headlights (relay conversion), and now Morimoto HID's. It is really wild to get on a long straight road and shine light a full mile down the road if not farther. Then having both side of a 2 lane highway lit up about 40-50 feet out in the ditch. Then on high beam create a light arc about 50 foot tall at about 1/4 mile out. My next upgrade when funds allow, is I'm ditching my 100w aircraft lights and ordering a set of LED PIAA driving light and fog lights. Sad to say the Morimoto HID drown my weak little 100w aircraft light so you really don't even see them any longer. Barely an orangish mark on the road.

This makes way more sense to me seeing the math than your long speech above. See the math formula and being able to plug values into the variables and see changes it way easier to understand.

@dripley those are nice looking seats... Wow! Like you've start all over factory fresh again. I wish I could find a lucky strike like that. I've kept seat covers on mine most of life of my truck but I'll admit my driver seat cushion is getting tore up foam wise. The fabric is giving up on the left edge.

The only setting I know of that is close would be "low boost timing reduct" which retards timing on high TPS, low boost moments. Then the fuel load timing which retards timing in low engine loads periods. From the Tunning page...

Still got this issue but not able to alter the miss/stutter problem yet. I'm wondering if your right @Me78569 that something isn't flashing properly for value and has a dead hole.

I'm the reverse I want to have all the gauges on the A-pillar and leave the Quadzilla App turned off. That way I don't have to pack my phone everywhere. But now with data logging the MPG I'm kind of stuck watching MPG logs on the phone.

Not exactly an answer either. I'm doing long runs every other day. My MPG can change from tank to tank without changing the tune at all. I can vary as low as 16 MPG on the low side and 19-20 MPG on the high side without changing anything on the tunes. Weather, traffic, road construction, idle time, etc. all will alter your final number. I did do a change. I dropped the OBDLink App and switched over to Palmer Performance App. Much better app and the auto connect to Bluetooth works properly so data logging of MPG is a bit more accurate now. Do mind you this is uncalibrated just imported my previous settings from the other app.

That would be a mess having to have an oddball VDO gauge and 2 ISSPro gauges...

Being pyrometer probes create very very small voltage and splitting the pyrometer probe to two devices will for sure throw the accuracy out the window for sure.

So you're saying if I over advance for sure I would see higher load numbers from the engine? I'm going to assume that excess retarding will do the same in adding more engine load and EGT's go higher.

Fuel wise I've got that nailed down rather well and can create some pretty nice smokeless tunes or low smoke tunes. Now as for the timing. That is still a mystery that I'm still attempting to figure out what is optimal cruise timing then what is optimal performance timing. The only thing for sure I've got to play from is the Quadzilla factory default tune. To me, it seems rather mild for timing but not sure... Quadzilla tune page and the setting they called default...

I've got mine both stacked up on the 4,5,6 port about an inch apart.

So you are saying cruise timing you can crank up rather steep. Don't have to worry about the WOT operation Quadzilla has a load limiter that kicks out to the performance timing map. I'm assuming you talking about a performance state and not a cruise state here. Because now you talking more of retarding timing more so to reach the ATDC mark or goal as you say.

Exactly what I've done. Don't attempt to share one probe for two devices it won't work.

Still in all... I understand the stock hole in timing... No one has shown how to tell what is enough timing. Too much timing? Too little timing? How does a person find out what is the right amount? Like @AH64ID mention that since his larger injectors he doesn't need as much timing. Then dropping pilot injection. I know CR is a different system... Fueling wise we all can see in the mirror if we have the right amount of fuel to boost. Simply look in the mirror if there is black smoke you need to roll back the fuel in your fuel table. Timing wise there has to be a way to see what is too retarded or too advanced. Then you add all these variables into the mix. Which affect timing in all different ways. Fuel load timing, Low PSI reduct, Timing Reduct Scaling, Light Throttle Advancement and load limit. One person tune might not fit another because of injector differences, altitude, turbo differences, even engine differences. The BIG Question.... So how do we detect proper timing?

What is the X axis in the table above? I can see the RPM on the Y axis...

Not installed in the basket

Nice... 420k miles on the OEM steering box and power steering pump. Well, you've got me beat then. I still got you beat on the tie rod ends. A Little secret I'll let out I've got a true grease needle and re-fill the tie rod boots with grease when they get low.

Really easy to provide the numbers. Set your cruise for 1,500 RPM take note of the timing on flat ground. Then increase RPM's for each number on flat ground. This should be done a low engine load measurement. More or less as a cruise state. Then you can build backwards from a cruise state to performance state by subtracting 2 or 3 degrees from those values. The problem is automatics have to be locked up to get these number where a manual I can do it easily. So did you mail that CANBus splitter cable? I'll be glad to measure out the Edge Comp and get some solid numbers.

So coming up on a birthday for my truck in October heading to 16 years of ownership and currently standing with 315k just about to roll up on the odometer. I'm still running the factory steering box and power steering pump. To this day the steering box is still tight and leak free. I've adjusted the over center adjustment a few times but still the steering box is working just the way it did when I bought the truck brand new in October of 2002 and it had only 43 miles on the clock when I test drove it. My truck has seen a lot of rough roads and dirt roads, off-road 4WD travels so, there is no pavement princess here. Now I have to admit the since I've never run an over sized tires on my truck has a lot of to do with this fact. Not to mention when I swapped out the 265's for the 235's gave me a huge edge of going further on the factory steering parts. Like to this day I've still got my OEM tie rod ends and never changed them yet. Still tight and no issues. Never done a lift kit or leveling kit that destroys the geometry of the front end. Currently running factory 2nd Gen wheels 16x7 chrome wheels with the 235's. The only things that have been changed have been one track bar and one set of ball joints. That's all... This is posted to give a point of reference to getting the most out of the Dodge Steering and it can be done.

Now provide the whole map for both... Aways get just one number... 1,500 - 2,000 - 2,500 - 3,000 - Max

I've ran both the Edge Comp and Quadzilla Adrenaline tuners. I would have to say the Edge Comp is the easiest tuner out that that does boost fooling. Where Quadzilla Adrenaline is the most advanced tuner. Not knowing what turbo you have HY35 is rated to about 30-32 PSI because of its 9cm2 exhaust housing where the HX35 is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and can run as high as 35 PSI without much issue. I've got a HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) now and seen as high as 43 PSI with the Quadzilla and +75 HP injectors (7x0.0085). Just about to turn 315k miles.

Timing is a completely custom table. 2D vs 3D as Smarty handles. So the base table would be the performance timing and the cruise timing is stacked on top. There are other variables that give the 2D of Quadzilla a bit more 3D like the Fuel Load timing. Now fuel wise its using the ECM as a base table. So basically multiply percentage to the fuel number then the result is fed to the VP44. Fueling wise I've got that figured out rather well and can produce tunes that are nearly smoke free. Its the timing values and knowing how far to advance the timing. I've been wanting to see what other tuners have for timing maps to have at least a base line value of normal can tunes are like. Right now I did find the Quadzilla Default values and trying them out with a slight tweak. Now this all being said... I'm not in this for racing. But MPG and economy. A lot of time spent with cruise set at 65 MPH and letting the truck roll. So now that being said how much timing is required for cruise optimally?

Just replace the gasket. Only replace the cooler if it looks pitted or damaged. Oil coolers might be a bit spendy...