Mopar1973Man

I'm liking my 7x0.0085 SAC injectors.

Well at least got MoparMom and Diesel to the RV now I got to rescue the truck in Boise.

Suppose to not suggest... I need to edit.

Absolutely. If this one failed the other is right behind ready to fail.

Exhaust brake typically has a 2 to 3 second delay At least my Jacobs brake does. No tapping of wires it uses the signal directly from the ECM. I normally rev match on downshift to lessen the load on the clutch.

Very sudden failure. Started darting back and forth on the I184 and I got off the interstate and could hear the growling. I knew I was done. So I limp to shop I had to pick up parts for a friend and here I sit. @MUDDY is going to pick me up and trailer my truck to Parma, ID.

I'm stuck in Boise. I just lost a wheel bearing. Cell 208 315 1470.

I got about 270k out of the stock brushes. I've still got my stock starter yet.

Weird... So far the VP44 is doing good. Starts easy without grid heaters idles good. Now after the trip to Boise it got the like yet which is hard to explain. The coasting to light it sounds like Alex pulled after a run with slight surge idle that fades out. For information value I'm NOT wire tapped. Power isn't as good as with the tap, but still very strong running on the highway. MPG wise it appears to be close to the 18 to 19 range yet.

Absolutely true. Also, most daily driver trucks don't require upgraded manifold either. Now performance trucks like TFaoro or Jlbayes now your talking another story these guys are pushing a lot of boost and lot of fuel and need the engine to breathe. Even with as much as I got my normal cruising boost pressure is still well below 10 PSI so I don't flow enough to even worry about upgrading nor worry about EGT's temps. Example 65 MPH I'm 2-3 PSI of boost and 550-600*F EGT's. This doesn't require an upgraded manifold.

Sorry to say but RV's are a moving and shaking house that flex. That being said you have to inspect the body yearly for water leaking in. Like on my RV the clearance lights on top were leaking causing my delamination that occurred. The lower skirts are rotting out from crappy butyl rubber tape every says to use which I think is junk. I've been slowly rebuilding the joints with 50 year silicone and scrapping all the junk butyl rubber out. I'm at least gaining on my RV and going to extend the life span with what I've done.

I've towed may times over 10,000 pounds of cargo (excluding the trailer weight). Fact is the two upper gears you use the most are on a 6 speed are the exact same gear on a 5 speed. Nothing gained and 5 speeds are cheaper to rebuild and no 5th gear nut is not a problem as long as the nut is properly torqued. IIRC the torque for the 5th gear nut is like 600 ft/lbs. So all these redneck youtube video beat the nut on with a hammer and chisel are going to fail anyways. Yes it's going to cost in tools to be able to do it properly but in the end the transmission is very strong. (Just 1-ton hay bails there are five hay bails on the trailer)

Becareful... P1693 code could be an error in either ECM and/or PCM. So your going to need a actual OBDII code reader. I bought a OBDLink for cheap and use it with my tablet works very well.

I hate to say but wrong. You know the two nuts on the block side I dropped one and never found it. Drove me crazy check everything making sure that it couldn't do any damage where ever it fell. That is so true. But my problem is going from extreme heavy rattle to almost dead silent. Now I've got to figure out a good tune. I've asked @me78569 for his specs so I've got a base line to look at.

After a week of sleeping in the garage the lazy Cummins didn't want to wake up. I ran the batteries dead attempting to get it to fire up. After fighting for a good 15-20 minutes I finally got it to light off. Now it does run I'm not seeing the wild lope I had before nor am I getting that wild aggressive timing any longer. I've only made a few short trips here locally which was getting a tank of fuel and taking out the trash. So I'll see what happens after a long haul.

This is normal if the outside temperature is below 60*F. The other sensor that kicks in is the battery temperature sensor. Like on my truck if I use MPG mode which is 143*F IAT temp so now outside temperature is below 60*F the grid heater will still cycle post starting.

New Pump is installed. More to post later on...

I could do the same thing with my Jayco. I've found several joints that were a joke and the wood behind it damaged. Personally, I've got no love for butyl rubber and tend to peel all that junk out and replace with silicone.

I can see my VP44 getting closer and closer to me. Monday I should have my new pump in hand.

I bet the brushes worn out r the contacts.

I'm going to refer to my VP44 post for the first part here. So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak. You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head. Now you need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the 3,5,6 injection rails. This is so you can remove the 3,5,6 from the intake. Now there is a 8mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. This caught me off guard so don't forget to remove this 8mm bolt for the dipstick tube. Now loosen the 3,5,6 injection line from the head. Lift the 3,5,6 injection lines from the engine. Place them somewhere clean. Take the two 10mm bolts out holding the fuel filter housing. Then lay the fuel filter over out of the way. This might require removing the fuel lines if you still have hard lines yet. Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the ECM to the tappet cover. Lay it over as well toward the driver side fender. Now you need to remove the 10mm bolt on the rear most holding the return line. Then there are three 16mm standoffs bolts you need to remove. Then three 10mm bolts. You may need to lightly pry on the cover to break the seal loose from the block. Be careful not to drop or break the rubber seal into the engine while doing this. It should lift out. Now take some brake cleaner and a rag and wash down the tappet cover and clean the edge. I use a gasket tack for the edge of the cover. I had to quickly put the gasket on so it would tack it together to prevent it from slipping off. Make sure the large tab is in the front and the flat side of the tab is point outwards. The thicker side should be towards the engine. Also watch for the FRONT mark on the tappet cover. Install. Make sure to put the right bolt in the right spots. I did not use any sealants on the face of the gasket. I highly do not suggest using RTV or gasket sealant on the mating face of the tappet cover gasket. This will most likely cause issues in the future. Just reverse the process to assemble. View full Cummins article

How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal... View full Cummins article

So then I would be looking at cam sensor being it need to verify the engine RPM to VP44 RPM on the PSG. The fuel amount commanded or fuel amount you'll be able to see with the Quadzilla VP44 fuel message. So we need to look at the tachometer signal and cam signal would be my next thought.