Mopar1973Man

Now the best I could say is get ahold of Blue Chip and ask him how much timing offset you can get from one end to the other.

I'm going to flop back over to doing web server administration more so. So I can continue to make a small income to offset the expenses we are going to have. We are also redefining how we do things to cut back on expenses. I can still do odds and end mechanic work but I won't get into big projects because I won't have the time to do them. Like I've got a truck sitting out here needs a turbo I'll still do the job if the owner can find a turbo.

That's about right. I paid $1,800 for my beast to be rebuilt when I broke the mainshaft. Also pick up a bucket of Mobile 50 SAE Transmission Fluid Synthetic GL4. Much cheaper than the dealer stuff and works much better.

Change the keys. There is a whole mess of key available for changing the offset of the pump shaft.

Fuse #12... Take notice all the IOD wiring is Pink.

Behave yourself Dripley...

Just checked mine and its got a 20 Amp fuse in it as well. Now I'm wondering what I looked at last that had a 10 Amp fuse in it.

No biggy... I'll walk into it a second time. Best part is, I still don't have to buy no stinkin' tool to put Parker Push Lock fittings on... Haters will continue to hate...

Some of you have been keeping up with the "Prayers Please" thread here and know what's been happening with MoparMom and myself. I've now got it down to science on how to handle her medical needs now and the fact I'll be doing long haul trucking for some time. I've got according to Google Maps a 164 mile one way (or 328 miles round trip) travel every other day. I will admit the mileage is close but the time is way off I'm closer to 3.5 hours one way. Basically in a nutshell I've got 12 hours travel or roughly 4,000 miles a month. I'm looking at the long travel a different way now. We've got local truckers that do this day in and out hauling lumber from the mills here locally to other places in the state. They do it 5 days a week and travel longer distances. This gives me the time to work on the Quadzilla tuning more so now because I can tweak and tune and test it out every trip I make. Giving me plenty of time to master the Quadzilla Adrenaline for the MPG crowd. I've added a Lund Rollup Tonneau Cover to the truck and ditched the old aluminum canopy. Then some of you might of noticed I've replaced my South Bend Clutch after 130k miles and wore it completely out. So I'm now changing my inspections to more of daily thing being I've got to travel longer distances in extremely cold weather dropping as low as -31*F. I'm carrying tire chains, tow strap, and basic tools for minor repairs. I've got a blanket and heavy cover-alls just in case. Being I travel Tuesday, Thursday and Saturaday I do have time in between for repairs but long distances to cover in all kinds of weather. So now when I do get to the clinic with @MoparMom I now can flip gears and take care of the grocery shopping during her treatment and then return back to the clinic and jack in with the laptop and continue to work on the web site. I know there is a lot of you that call me for support don't fret. My cell number is 208-315-1470 I'm all set up in the truck now for hands free operation of my LG G4 phone you guys can still get a hold of me but it will be on my cell more so than my home phone.

According to my book its a 2 hour job.

215-220 pounds enough body mass??

Heck, I do it the easy way. I just cut my hose to length put the fitting on the floor. Now using my body mass just push the hose right on the fitting without even breaking a sweat.

My stupid mind. I was remembering the warmer weather and early version of timing numbers. Now my last trip I ran Lvl 0 and watch for nearly 50 miles of how the timing was in stock power. Then flipped back to mine and I was retarding fairly heavy. So I aimed for about 1-2* gain over stock roughly to start a base tune. Then I'll play more with it on this next trip down to Boise on Tuesday. So now you have to take in account of the weather, temperature, and IAT. This all changes things up a bit. So I'll work from just above stock to hopefully find that happy MPG spot again.

@Me78569 You tune is really close to what I'm running. As for other members posting Quadzilla tunes... I'm posting a blank tuner page (below) here now so you can cut and paste to fill in. TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: RPM Limit: VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: TPS Pump Maximum: TPS Pump Minimum: Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: Pump Low Boost Scale PSI Boost Scaling: TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: Low PSI Timing Reduct: Timing Reduct Scaling: Light Throttle Timing Adv: Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 2000 RPM: 2500 RPM: 3000 RPM: Max: BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI: 1 PSI: 2 PSI: 3 PSI: 4 PSI: 5 PSI: 6 PSI: 7 PSI: 8 PSI: 9 PSI: 10 PSI: 11 PSI: 12 PSI: 13 PSI: 14 PSI: 15 PSI: 16 PSI: 18 PSI: 20 PSI: 22 PSI: 24 PSI: 26 PSI: 28 PSI: 30 PSI: _____________________________ Now my tune... I'm going to test out on my next trip to Boise... TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 7 RPM Limit: 3500 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 25% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 2000 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 100 TPS Pump Minimum: 20 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 5 Boost Scaling: 40 TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 2 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 16 2000 RPM: 18 2500 RPM: 23 3000 RPM: 25 Max: 26 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS (Using Exponential Growth of 1.3% starting with 100) 0 PSI: 100 1 PSI: 101 2 PSI: 102 3 PSI: 103 4 PSI: 105 5 PSI: 106 6 PSI: 108 7 PSI: 109 8 PSI: 110 9 PSI: 112 10 PSI: 113 11 PSI: 115 12 PSI: 116 13 PSI: 118 14 PSI: 119 15 PSI: 121 16 PSI: 122 18 PSI: 126 20 PSI: 129 22 PSI: 132 24 PSI: 136 26 PSI: 139 28 PSI: 143 30 PSI: 147

You might see a mild puff of smoke without a tuner. With an Edge Comp I was able to roll a good sized cloud on level 5x3. Now with the Quadzilla Adrenaline and good tuning I'm capable of more power yet and zero smoke but I'm running +50HP injectors.

I would test for the AC noise off the alternator first with all the radios and accessories OFF. Then test the AC noise again while transmitting on the radios and see if the Rx signal is seen on the AC noise test. PCM noise filter is a band-aid because it only going to protect for that one circuit. If your going to install a noise filter because of the radio you going to need a big one that will filter for the entire truck. This will pose a problem you will have to make a schedule to unhook the filter and test the alternator for noise levels because the noise filter will mask the problem till it does damage ot ECM, PCM and/or VP44.

Ahhh... The radio might be the cause of the noise. So yeah you going to need the filters but something system wide and not just the PCM. You might consider a heavy duty alternator like Nations Alternators or Mean Green Alternators.

I'm figuring out to do the timing section of the Quadzilla now. The biggest thing I figured out is to watch the stock values first for part of road trip then figure out how much timing you want to give total. Then you can tweak the other setting like adding cruise timing, your load timing etc. I'm still working the method of figuring it all out with the timing settings so more to come. This will be based on the economy side more so than the performance side.

I've heard of a few reports of output speed sensors causing lockup issues. Glad to hear you found the issue and got it fixed.

Ditch the noise filter and fix the alternator.

maybe I goofed... Now I've got to look at the tablet and see what I played with last...

Electronics at Cummins is going to be steep in price. Doesn't surprise me at all just look at thermostat that's sick too

Got to use a outside program like OBDLink or similar that can work with two bytes formulas. @Me78569 managed to figure out the formula for the early series MAP sensors but never quite got the later series quite right. Offset numbers are different and range of bytes is different too.

Problem is its actually a 2 byte value. The MAP sensor is capable of seeing up to 40 PSI. So you have to work with A and B byte value and figure out to do the math on it. The PID standard only sees 1 byte value so this why it terminates premature.

Crank sensor? Are you seeing RPM signal? Field leads is the blue wire seeing +12V with the key on? The green wire should be variable ground when the tach signal is seen by the PCM.