Mopar1973Man

IAT and Battery temp are the two sensors that control grid heaters. The only tool I know of that reads Battery Temp is @Chris O. CCD tool I know @Me78569 has his and could validate the battery temp sensor for you.

Sorry this is the Big Salmon River outside of Riggins, ID. I'm even lucky enough to have cell service yet.

If the field armature happens to have a bit of magnetism it might still produce AC ripple. This way pulling the alternator fuse you completely isolate the alternator from the circuit.

Typically I get people to unplug the alternator field lead and remove the alternator fuse. This just make sure the alternator is not producing any power or has any connection to the batteries. It also could be the output speed sensor too acting up.

Mom had the same system in her old Chevy S10 pickup years ago. Many times that vacuum line dropped off and the front axle never locked. Like my old 94 Check pickup (Fire truck) was an electric locking and I've had the solenoid burnout on a fire call and got me stuck in the snow. 2WD LO I never needed such a thing. Even with all the trailer work I do I've never need a 2WD LO. As for the CAD system. I'm going to leave it alone being this is my fail back truck that has it. I've already rebuilt the entire setup and I know it works for now.

Extra spinning parts... LOL. At least they work 1005 of the time where my 1996 Dodge with CAD without constant axle has left me stuck because of engagement issues. Just like @MUDDY trying to convince me of doing the conversion on my truck during the bearing change out. Yeah, so you got manual hubs, standard cone bearings, etc. Still in all, I don't want the headache of manually locking hubs and messing with packing bearings. 150k-180k miles on a set of bearings is not bad. That is one job I hate doing on the RV breaking down the axles one at a time using an entire can of grease on repacking all 8 bearings.

So what? At least my 4WD works all the time on the 2002 where the 1996 might not work when you really need it.

Most likely the vacuum lines for the CAD unit. Next would be the CAD unit itself needs rebuilding. The vacuum motor can get leaks or the shift fork shoes might be worn out. I'm glad I don't have a CAD unit on the 2002. The 1996 with the CAD has left me stuck a few times because the CAD unit didn't lock in like it should.

I think the app freeze problem could be memory limit issues. Older devices and/or cheap devices tend to have less operational memory.

1. 100,000 lines. About 4 hours of logs. Not sure of the file size. 2. Oldest information is pushed off the end. 3. Ignition ON starts the logging. It's always running as long as the ignition is on.

Not exactly something I'd be proud of doing.

I've got an local gent that runs out at 1/2 tank but only put 17 gallons in the tank so this is a pickup problem not a sender.

Nice looking paint job... Suggestion for you... Being your truck looks exceptionally great now you better look into securing your vehicle with a good alarm and/or defeat switch to prevent starting of the truck. Ask @TFaoro he got targetted as well for having a pretty truck.

If you ask Dynamic he'll say to place the sensor in the pan not the hot line of the cooler.

I will say the bearing snap rings take very small tips. The eyelets are very small.

I know the feeling. I'm in middle of nowhere Idaho no one up here has the parts I'm looking for and usually days away waiting for UPS truck to show up.

Morning check would be more optimal.

Nice idea... Then I would take that mount it to the fender or firewall use slightly heavier gauge wire then omit the fusible links in the stock setup.

Most believe its base on IAT temperature which is partial true the other half of the temperature comes from the battery temperature sensor under the driver side battery. With my IAT fooler on and showing 143*F I should not get any grid heater and with ECT at 190-200*F. Still in all the grid heater will still fire post starting this is because the battery temperature is below 60*F and will be used in part of the calculation.

Check both the IAT and ECT temperature at first key on in the morning to see if they match. If so the two sensors are still good. Then watch the sensors as you drive. ECT should be normally 190-200*F and IAT will be roughly +40*F over outside air temperature at full engine temperature of 190-200*F.

So simple to just take a 1/2 wrench unscrew the nut slip the wire off. Replace the nut. Do it twice a year, once in the spring (April) and then again in the fall of the year (October). I wouldn't use a battery disconnect because of the high current loading of the grid heater. It would be very possible to have a fire caused by a weak connection of the switch as the grid heaters draw 195 Amps during the initial key ON. So This is way the grid heater is directly wired to the battery because of less likely of weak connections during high load operation of the grid heaters. We are taking 195 AMP load here so it's always best to have a good solid feed of power. Any weak connection will cause huge amount of heat and possibly a fire.

Filter and air box get to be too small as we gain more power so the box starts to distort and creates dust leaks. Stock powered truck is fine for the stock box but eventually, it will still leak dust too. Mine started back at 60k miles before I even had Edge Comp or Injectors. Pull my stock airbox out and replaced with BHAF. The first filter lasted about 135k miles and 7 years. Here is the all time worse filter to own...

Because if you just disconnect the leads you still take the risk of the leads shorting out and causing ECM damage. The only way is to find two the two black/tan wires and pull them from the solenoids but most can even see the lead colors anymore. Then if anything shorts to the post of the solenoid will cause it to activate next key on. Where if you pull the orange/black or the yellow/black then you have live +12V leads that short out will possibly wipe out the ECM MOSFET's that control the grid heaters. This why I don't bother with that side and just pull the power lead to the grid heater. My way there is ZERO risk to anything and ZERO codes...

Because for the same price of a factory panel filter it will go way farther distance and time over a stock OEM panel filter. BHAF has way less restriction like the stock air filter box. So why bother with a stock air box filter that possibly leaks dust, is replaced with a low-quality washable filter, still a restrictive box, etc. Just looking at the OP picture you can see the dust settled in the leaking oil so you know the filter is not keeping up and the piston rings and cylinder walls are taking a beating. No really... Here is my post on it...