Mopar1973Man

I buggered up a few lines in my time and just removed the lines and the connector tubes and cleaned, lightly sanded with fine sandpaper (600-1000 grit) and the same on the connector tubes. I made a small wooden dowel jig for the sandpaper for doing the connector tubes. Basically, you want to lightly polish the metal so it smooth and the taper of the line can seal in the flute of the connector tube.

Let's say right now you need a "Atta Boy". We'll see what it turns out tomorrow long haul day.

@Me78569 Thank you... Code is good. I see a good range of timing change now between cruise state and power mode. I took my test drive to Riggins, ID which is basically a mild 1% grade over all. Downhill it can ramp up quite a bit of timing at 65 MPH I seen as high as 22* then when I was coming home back up hill it kept the timing much lower 16-18* working its way back up canyon. I'll give it the long haul test tomorrow and tell you what the 362 mile run to Boise and back does.

True... Lots has been added and improved over the last what 5 months of Beta Testing. I'm working towards making it more stable in the MPG department is still rather wobbly in numbers a bit more than I like. I had to give you a load of crap over your comment...

Uh No...

Bingo...

I can say transmission wise the 47RE, NV4500 and NV5600 are the same for the top 2 gears for the most part. Transmission wise for gears there is nothing different really. Being your running 4.10 gear in the rear axle you want to land at 2,000 to 2,100 RPM when you're pulling your grades. If the pyrometer is rising above your max then gear down and land again in the same 2,000 to 2,100 RPM range again. As for myself I'm just a bit over stock for mods but producing a good solid 400/1000 at the flywheel. Pulling my RV or utility trailer over grades is no big deal at all. I might hit my EGT high point but typically I can climb 7% grades at 53-55 MPH typically without many problems still holding 4th gear (1:1 ratio NV4500) which is the same as 3rd gear (1:1 ratio 47RE). Now keep in mind I'm still running 3" stock exhaust, stock intake, and no cold air intake either. Look at my signature links for my mods... Last fall's big haul of hay. This is 10,000 pounds of hay excluding the trailer weight.

What?! Complaining? If the software didn't have timing like a p-pump. Must be that goofy guy that's doing all the coding.

I've always done my own clutch installs. I'm very critical about the torquing of the bolts, alignment, and even the installing of the transmission again. Alot of little spots where things can go wrong because of a poor installed clutch. For example I've seen shops force a transmission back in using the bolts. Not good.

So far I'm happy with the iQuad v2 software. Been working on the cruise timing functions with @Me78569 and aiming for better economy on the highway.

I'm still running stock 3 inch exhaust with a flow through muffler. No EGTs issues and good power. 4 inch would be good upgrade for 500 hp and higher. Being i dont produce high boost with normal driving or towing there is no reason for 5 inch exhaust at all.

Marginal... Is it New or reman'ed? I always test my alternator before I leave the store.

Single South Bend Clutch Con OFE Yes. No. Not required for the South Bend Clutch. I tow upwards of 10,000 pounds at times. Typically right around 8,000 pounds of RV. We are very close in modifications it should work just fine. That is 5 one-ton hay bails.

Very bad... Normally good alternator is 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. Diodes are cooked and the alternator is junk.

Rare but I've seen things sold on the market with the wrong size o-ring cross section wise was large enough.

Always dampen my seals with a bit of diesel fuel before even installing on the the lid. Previous filter change after 52k miles or so. Stock 10 micron on the left and the 3 micron Fleetguard filter on the right.

Electrolyte will only freeze if the battery is dead. As long as the battery is charged up the electrolyte can't freeze.

While the fuse is out and field leads are unhooked you need to measure the AC noise and try to isolate the device creating the noise. This is true. But these were all gasoline engines. Now diesel is way different where the TQ comes on very low in the RPM span and pump pressure of the transmission are very low. Where gasoline engine never made torque till high RPM's. Lockup was to reduce heat created by the shearing of the ATF in the torque converter since its locked its just a solid shaft so no heat produced. Just my 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L V8 with 46RE if I keep it out of lock up it will jump right up to 200*F in no time at all. Once it does hit lock up the trans temp falls like a rock. I've got a few grades I've gotta watch to be sure it locks up in 3rd. This is only 5,500 pound truck not towing either. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/102-1996-dodge-ram-1500/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/232-46re-transmission-rebuilt/

Like I just bought another bug forward for fly by wire cruise control folks. I found that cruise timing is flat as a rock and doesn't vary at all. So at 40 MPH or so it kicks into cruise timing and holds the exact same timing all the way to 80 MPH like an old P7100 pump. This doesn't work for the economy purpose at all. Part of this problem is the TPS signal is ZERO during cruise control so the Quadzilla just holds cruise timing all the time even if the truck starts climbing a 6-7% grade. I think there should be a certain amount of retard vs boost too so as the load comes on, boost rises the timing should start to retard some too hopefully to keep the efficiency up.

You might have done damage to the PCM. Never short these leads together. Did you leave the field lead unhooked and the alternator fuse removed during your test drive? Good way to burn up the torque converter and transmission. Still you need to find the source of the AC noise. These kinds of band-aids is what kill the ECM, PCM and VP44 because the ultimate source of the AC noise was never found so these computer get damaged.

I'm running a straight flow through 3" muffler. It really can't be heard in the cab. Outside its very mellow sounding. I ran straight pipe 3" for a very long time but wen I started towing long distance the drone was a new problem. Now just adding the flow through 3" muffler the drone issue is gone. Still zero restriction like a straight pipe but without the noise. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/229-straight-pipe-exhaust-with-muffler/

Currently, my AirDog 150 is the 3-micron filter. I'm going to change it to 10-micron filter then it's filtered again on the stock filter which is again a 10-micron filter as well. So I'm double stacked. Filtered the first time at the AirDog and second time at the engine on the stock filter housing. I don't even worry about it. I've already researched all my local fuel suppliers know what their pour points typically are. They are typically much lower than what going to have for weather. In 15 years of driving this Cummins I've NEVER gelled once. I don't use any pour point depressant additives (anti-gel) or cetane boosters. My coldest day so far has been -31*F and no issues.

Like even with my Donaldson filters I'm running that are listed at 3 micron are a filtering in the cold it pulls the fuel pressure down due to a restriction of the filter media itself. Once the fuel temperature warms up to about 50*F the pressures are basically back to normal. At 3 microns I'm filtering out red blood cells and white blood cells. So any wax starts to form its takes very little to start plugging up the filters. Like myself I'm thinking of returning back to 10 micron filters and just run double stacked like I am right now. This is my last 3 micron filter at the moment so when I re-order I'll go back to 10 micron. 10 micron = 0.000393701 Inch 3 Micron = 0.00011811 Inch That's a difference of... 0.000275591 (or 2 tenths of a thousandths)

Look under the carpet for the plug for the power seat see if its even there. If not you'll have to change out the cab harness to add the feature. I know the fuse panel in the dash would require a circuit breaker for the power seats. Personally I would avoid the power seat function. So far every vehicle I've owned has had the power seat motors fail at one point or another and very expensive to get replacement motors. Even all the trucks I've worked on about 75-85% of the power seat truck have failed motors most like the forward to backwards. Even my current 1996 Dodge Ram has a failed motor in the power seats (gear broke).

Some folks have lost the size comparison to microns. So as a refresher...