Mopar1973Man

I'm not saying mat the throttle to the floor to test it. Like even in my 96 Dodge 1500 it extremely difficult to do being the tires let go before you reach the stall speed. Like the older 727 transmissions you could do this fairly easy back in the day.

Might be true for the 2002 Dodge. As for my 1996 Dodge 1500 that is not true. I bought is used back in 2001 with 112k miles on it. Still in all low failure rate with the 1996 Dodge only big thing was 46RE rebuild I did a year ago.

You need to verify the oil pressure with mechanical gauge. Dash gauge is nothing more than a dummy light. You might have bigger issues killing turbos being the oil pressure might not be high enough in pressure. @AH64ID What's the standard for CR engine oil pressure? Is it still the same minimums... MINIMUM PRESSURES (At least what I know for 2nd Gen) 10 PSI at idle 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM's

So... What I would do is crack like #1 only, close the other 5 lines tight. Then do the ether trick again and leave the one line open. If it starts then you can close that line when it does start. It will be messy but it should get it started.

Remember you need 4,500 PSI to make a injector pop. So when there is fuel coming out is it just dribbling out slowly or coming out with good force on the open lines?

Sounds like someone flipped it over installed it backwards.

Yes. Power brake the transmission the point at which the transmission starts pulling on the drivetrain at it max rpm is the stall point in the basic sense. I'm pretty sure you'll have a tough time doing this. Old school method of checking stall speed.

You can flip them over and be going backwards too. I always set them up so when you tugged on the adjustment cable they turn towards tightening. So pull the drum off and verify the direct of the ratchet arm direction and the starwheel is indeed tightening.

@notlimah Why don't you create an article about the spring shim and adjustments?

That would be a good idea... If there is no fuel pressure the VP44 will struggle to pull its own fuel and might not ever prime the high pressure side.

I've got two trucks that could use a paint job. 02 is get rather beat up looking with all the rock chips. 96 Dodge has lost most of the paint on the roof and hood now. Looking at grey primer.

Purchased mine on March 13, 2017... Still waiting for them to ship. Suppose to ship by March 27, 2017. That would be a full 2 week wait.

Before you wear the starter out trying. I've ran into some like this. Just unhook your grid heater trigger wire (one off of each relay). Then with the turbo face exposed get one person cranking and then a second person to fire a very small split second burst of either at the turbo. This might be all it takes to get it to light up. I've seen even my truck do this where you crank and crank its firing on one cylinder but nothing more. Might want to check your starter too if the starter brushes are getting short then it might only be running on half a starter. Bad battery cables could be a cause too.

I'll have to look at my invoice for the mileage I purchased at but I've driven the royal hell out of these tires. I'd be willing to buy another set of these tires. Worked awesome in the snow and ice just run -5 PSI on mt calc'ed pressures. Now I'm running right at calc'ed pressures.

Kind of like launching out of first or second on a manual.

I would shoot a light coat of lacquer on the housing to keep the shine longer.

I'm using OBDLink but I'm not sure if it will work with other dongles.

The is an article in the General Cummins Electrical section for voltage drop testing cables.

65mm turbine vs 74mm turbine on the exhaust side. Then the exhaust housing going from 12cm2 to 14cm2. So, the second turbo would Have more lag.

...and expect cheap quality light too... There is a reason why the more expensive light bars exist... Most likely they put out more quality light.

I agree the ECM is cooked. Make sure to verify the alternator before installing another ECM.

There is a bug for 4.2.2 and 4.2.3 firmware right now being resolved. Then I'm working on getting the auto connect feature added along with adjusting for MPH for oversize tire trucks.

Rebuilding isn't too hard. The worst part is finding a rebuild kit that has quality diodes. The only thing that might be a bit tough is pressing the bearing on the shaft.

No. RV275 are the stock injectors used for the Cummins ISB for RV application. No. Still the RV series Cummins came with HX35 turbos. I'm still running 3" exhaust yet. My is 15 years old now and 300k miles just about and still not leaking. So if its not leaking now don't bother replacing it. They are rather expensive. That's fine to replace the o-rings most likely need to after all the years. Make sure to clean the crossover tube holes out with brake cleaner and blow them out with compressed air. So far I've tried RV275, +50HP and now jumping up to +75HP SAC injectors. I would say RV275 is safe for stock fuel. I would consider upgrading if you looking at +50HP or larger. Most likely cost more that just buying built injectors already. Nothing really to rebuilding. Just buying nozzles and pop testing. When you price that all out typically it's higher than just buying already made injectors. True... If the pintle and nozzle are worn out and pissy then cleaning isn't going to change that fact at all. You are going to have to replace the nozzles and pintles as a set and then pop test. Again this will most likely cost more. Just checking prices it's cheaper to do +50HP injector than RV275's. My +75HP are just about the same price as a RV275 injector... RV275 +40HP - $345 https://dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635/ +50 HP VCO's - $325 https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-50hp-performance-injectors-7x0-008-vco-vp7x8vco/ +75HP SAC's - $350 https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-sac-vp7x85sac75/

You need to replace all the main battery cables. I won't mess around with cleaning you've already proved the cables are weak at best.