Mopar1973Man

Only 2 people isn't hardly worth the effort for getting the artwork made. We need more people come on people vote. Last time when I sat down and got a quote from the gal that made my first shirt. The creating the vector artwork alone was close to $50 to $70 bucks. That is one part of this project I've got do too is find a good picture of a truck to use for the vector art. (Another post). I got to find out what options of shirts, hoodies, etc. we have to work from.

Hey Gang. I'm thinking of producing shirts for the store. Basically looking at doing the site name and a vector picture on the front. I'm wondering how many people would be interested in buying shirts? I want to look into doing hoodies and possibly a long sleeved shirt as well. First I need to know if this is a good idea or not? I'm not going to invest a bunch of effort for small amount of sales. Feedback welcomed...

As for my last trip, I had to modify my normal route to avalanche that closed US95 down. Now for my trip today being I avoided the I84 and 80 MPH travel and had more 55 MPH travel down Hwy 55. I turned out 24.28 MPG total for the day and high marked a bit over 26 MPG. This trip I was using my MPG fooler as well.

No. Its weighted with lead or steel core.

There is only 3 or 4 companies building batteries so brand name is rather meaningless.

Just the MAP sensor is different. I'll have to look at mine in the daylight to see what plug I got for the Quadzilla.

I'm still jumping into this very soon. Gotta put a few dollars aside so I can get them ordered.

My big solar system battery bank failed in the same manner. The batteries would get an internal short and the battery volts would bleed out over a 24 hour span to the point of being dead again without another hooked up to them. Just remember all batteries can get this issue including AGM batteries. The trick to preventing this issue... Never let a battery go dead. Dead in a manner of speak for 12V is anything under 11 volts (some state 10.5v but I like to error on the side caution). Never let the plate become exposed to the air. When the electrolyte get low enough that the plates are exposed to air that section of plates are now ruined. Always recharge the batteries fully before leaving to rest. This mean don't go out start the truck on cold morning move 100 feet and shut down again the batteries cannot and will not recover their charge in that short time. Batteries require warmth to charge and time so if you start up make sure to fully charge before shutting down again. When adding distilled water to the cells make sure to disconnect the batteries and do a equalize charge on the batteries to ensure that the distilled water and electrolyte is stirred back together again. If not this is what's called stratification and the acid become concentrated on the lower part of the plates. Also equalizing the batteries will also help repair sulphation of the plates. WARNING: Do not equalize an AGM battery you will most like do damage and dry out the cells.

Quadzilla web site... http://quadzillapower.com/2002-dodge-5-9l-cummins-adrenaline-with-iquadbt/ Go figure being that DAP owns Quadzilla... So it's just cheaper HP per dollar...

Yeah, because Smarty and TQ management makes the launching feel stronger. Yeah, the down low power is way better but the upper end power is not as great. Still can only do as much as CANBus will allow which is roughly 60-65 HP. This where a wire tap module does way better allowing to power way more on the upper end (120-180 HP). Since Smarty is always going to be limited to 60-65 HP range very limited on fuel and timing controls in my imnd its not worth the price. $685 for Smarty for 65 HP. That's $10.53 per HP. $599 for Edge Comp for 120 HP. That's $4.99 per HP. $1,149 For Edge Juice for 150 HP. That's $7.66 per HP. $742 for Quadzilla for 180 HP. That's $4.12 per HP. Quadzilla provides way more power, more functions, and way less price.

That right there will test if there is a internal short of the batteries. If there is a internal short the battery with the problem will continue to go dead without being hooked up. So charge the batteries good for few hours. Then disconnect both batteries for the night and measure the voltage of both batteries while disconnected. Remember if one battery is bad you have to replace both anyways.

Might have bad batteries with an internal short. So the batteries will be self-draining.

All the battery temperature sensor does is alter the charging voltage to meet the needs of the battery by temperature. So as the battery get warmer then the charging voltage goes down. All I can say is check for a error code for the battery temperature sensor.

It is impossible to siphon gas... Because there is diesel in the fuel tank not gas...

I'm running 4th gear at 55 MPH and 5th gear at 65 MPH. This is displayed at the bottom of each screen capture right below the EGT number. @Me78569 What is the deal with oil pressure readings?

There is a roll over valve in the sender top (vent) and then the other roll over valve is in the filler neck of the tank. Typically the roll over valves don't go bad because you never rolled the vehicle over on its top so the openings should still be open. They are not spring loaded. So it's possible the vent tube on the sender is plugged with dirt or mud. When you roll the vehicle up side down in an accident the balls will slide to close the fuel tank off. There is one roll over valve in the top of the sender that will slide shut for the tank vent. The other roll over valve is in the filler neck that will roll shut keeping fuel from running out the tank. Here is the filler neck rollover valve.

What makes it hard for me to understand you are not staying to one terminology. Part of the article you refer to throttle and the other part you refer to load. I base most of my tuning on engine load than throttle being most of my time is on cruise control and throttle shows as zero. I will admit when you are getting close you can pull your EGT's way down from what your use to seeing. Here is a screen capture from Council, ID valley where the speed limit is 55 MPH. Boost pressures are +1 high compared to the ISSPro. Then going across Indian Valley south of Council, ID where speed limit is 65 MPH.

Finally got around to hiding my High Idle Switch. I figure I would share my idea may there are some folks that don't want a dash full of holes.

Well crap!!! here I go back to figuring out things a bit more. Never mind that part of my post... Still an idiot here...

Finally getting a grasp of this new App and tuning features. I broke over 21 MPG. Things I did learn. MPG Fooler. This is awesome combo for custom tuning. Being it fixes the IAT temperature to 143*F and locks it in place it makes it super easy to build timing curve that fit your driving style. If you happen to own a high idle kit and Quadzilla enable the MPG fooler and start building a tune it will give you an even playground. Also @Me78569 and I found out that temps below +80*F will make the ECM add even more timing killing the tune as temperatures wander up and down. All along I was attempting to build tune without the MPG fooler thinking it would muddy the waters too much. Actually makes for a very stable tuning platform. You can crank up a bit more timing that you figured on your Cruise Timing Adv then using the the Fuel Load Timing to pull the timing back down based on load. This gives you the ability of having a really high timing under very low loads like slight downhill runs. Then as the load comes on the setting will pull the timing down up to 3* of timing. This is great for my kind of travel being I could run along a flat valley then climb a grade at the far end of the valley. Giving some retarded timing bring the torque curve back down allowing the engine to build power after the load is gone allowing to return to high timing again. Do not attempt to build a one tune fits all. I've attempted this and failed. You'll find the requirements for a good economy tune will be way different from a good performance tune. You constantly fight to get good MPG's then once you get the MPG's tune right the power will feel off and you go back to tweaking and now your power is back but now your MPG tune is back in the toilet. Make sure to stay focused on the type of tune you are attempting to build. Quadzilla give you all kinds of room for building many tunes take advantage of this and separate your tunes by purpose. Don't be afraid to try some wild settings. Some times you'll find other neat secrets to building power or MPG tunes. Optimally you need to be able to watch feedback from the engine to build a good tune. Like I'm using the OBDLink LX and a Android Tablet. I've got horsepower, torque, engine load, Instant MPG, total MPG and both IAT and ECT temperatures. I know the Quadzilla has some of these gauges but missing the MPG and power gauges. This gives me at least a rough measurement of if the tune is better or worse but changing a setting on timing and/or fuel. Go back over your tunes often and double check yourself. I've made errors in my tunes being either tired, in a hurry, or just having a dumb moment. It helps to review your setting often to catch mistakes.

Hook up is super easy everything is under the hood. There is only 1 wire that goes back in the cab. I'm also using the Android as well and working very good.

Funny but true. The previous owner of my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 blew the fuse for the cluster lighting so instead of replacing the fuse he hot wired the radio illumination lead to another trigger so the panel light would come on. So during my time of replacing the head light switch I wanted to get my panel dimmer working again. So I replaced the fuse and cut the hacked wiring out and now it all works correctly. It amazes me how much people can screw something up electrically. <- Previous Owner

In freezing weather you have to be careful because water will freeze in the filter and possibly in the fuel lines too. Causing all kinds of issues ranging from poor performance to no start at all. Gelled fuel is a different story and typically be dealt with by using anti-gel product. Water though there is no way to fix frozen water in fuel other than heat the vehicle up in an enclosed space.

At least you got it fixed and running...

Like I use 7 power levels this gives me... 0 Stock 1 Reduced power 2 CANBus 3 CANBus 4 33% of wire tap. 5 66% of wire tap. 6 Full wire tap. Remember you alway have to count ZERO as a number. So my power levels would just divide up the power even more into small amounts. So your affect the bold amount and how much your dividing the power per level.