Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Test the alternator for excessive AC noise. The alternator is the first step. You might get away without messing with the ECM. More important to clean the battery terminals. The grounds under the hood are mostly secondary stuff like lights and horn. -
For temperature gauges the max range is -40 to 240F. For All other gauges it's common sense. Like TPS is 0 to 100 percent. HP and torque is just run and see. Set a range you can work with.
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I know the feeling being stuck in Boise because of this passing storm. It was just safer to stay for two nights. Travelling in a white out sucks.
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Welcome to the family... Another firewood hauler. Jump in and post everyone is helpful and like one big family...
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Now you know why I've got the tablet with both ECT and IAT temperatures. Then marked my optimal ranges for both with green.
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What kind of failure are we talking about?
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I got to say Thanks to @Me78569 for helping me fix my programming screw up. In my hurry last night I manage to cross my TPS values and created a very poor tune that dropped me from my 20a to mid teens. This over advanced my timing and pulled my MPGs way down. So to others make sure of your numbers you enter are correct. All I can say is D'Oh!
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10.5 is a dead battery and is taking on damage for sure.
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Here I am with 11 year old AirDog 150 with 229k miles. Not always true that electric pumps are short life spans.
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Charge both batteries unhooked from the truck and then let stand for 24 hours. Check the voltage after 24 hours and see what your test voltage is.
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I would pressure test the entire system cold. Then if you pump up to normal pressure and let it staand the coolant will leave a tell tale sign of where its leaking. If the heater core is leaking typically it will drip from the A/C drain if it's not plugged up.
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Well see... Spring is around the corner. We'll see if it continues or returns to zero.
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Uh... No. I'm looking at 2 gauges and my ISSPro shows exactly 0 PSI. The Quadzilla shows 2 PSI at idle. I'm sure I could hook up my old DiPricol boost gauge and verify but there is 0 PSI at idle. Regardless PSI is PSI. If you have 2 PSI at -30*F is still 2 PSI at 130*F. Colder air density has nothing to do with the measurement. Pound per square inch is exactly that regardless of the temperature. I know @ISX years ago did the math on the air density and what came out of it was the difference in moles (or molecules) its very tiny difference nothing a boost gauge would ever see from temperature to another. As for the sensor reading I know there is a difference for the late model truck as @Me78569 and myself have been playing with this for a while with the OBDLink data as well.
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I've used a test gauge a few times on my truck and dash readings are typically lower than actual.
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Maxed out at 40*F here today. My yard is a slushy mess and hard to even walk down to the shop. Very Slick. Hoping it will freeze back up. I know its going to make roads slick.
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2003 Dodge Cummins Wiring Maps ABS Brake Wiring (4 Wheel) Air Conditioning Airbag SRS system Anti Theft System Automatic Transmission System Backup Lighting Body Control Module Computer Data Lines Charging System Instrument Cluster (Page 1) Instrument Cluster (Page 2) Instrument Cluster Lights Courtesy Lights Cruise Control Engine System (Page 1) Engine System (Page 2) Engine System (Page 3) Exterior lighting (Page 1) Exterior lighting (Page 2) Grounds (Page 1) Grounds (Page 2) Grounds (Page 3) Headlights Headlights w/Quad Headlights w/DRL Grounds w/Quad and w/DRL Heater Horn Intergrated Module Overhead Module Power Distribution (Page 1) Power Distribution (Page 2) Power Distribution (Page 3) Power Door Locks with Keyless Entry Power Door Locks Power Mirrors Power Seat Power Windows Radio Radio (Premium) Seat Belt Starting System Warning System Wipers ABS Brake System (4 Wheel) Air Conditioning Wiring Air Conditioning Wiring Air Bag SRS System Anti Theft System Automatic Transmission Backup Lights Body Control Modules Computer Data Lines Charging System
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All I can say is the colder the IAT temp the more and more timing advancement will be given. Excessive amount of timing will produce lower MPG's numbers. Currently I'm playing will timing values and attempting to understand a good point for cold weather operation.
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Every winter. I'm always seeing temps around the -20*F for at least a week at a shot then flip back. Like right now its +40*F here and mild. Like summer weather.
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The only sensor we've got that that can see any pressure at all in the intake tract is the MAP sensor. Just getting back to the simple way of looking at stuff there is only a handful of sensors on these trucks. MAP is the only one that can measure pressure for the boost value. The ECM is a seal tight can so I didn't think there would be a baro number available. As for air filter pressure there isn't a sensor like the CR engine before the turbo. So that is out.
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I see roughly +10 to 15*F gain in using a winter front on the grill. The BHAF drawing air from under the hood than cold air out of the fender aids slighly being the inter cooler is mostly blocked off. So at -31*F outside I was seeing +20 to +25*F or so IAT temps. The colder it gets the better the winter front works.
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Got my vote... These truck are a beast. As for the lift pump start doing your research on lift pumps. Also, do your study work on where to install it just because most mount to the frame doesn't mean its a good spot either. Consider your usage and where you travel how about dirt roads? Is the pump and filters going to be in the damage path of the front tires throwing debris at the pump and filters?
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Another twin MAROON truck (Not purple!)... Fuel pressure that is optimal is to be 14-20 PSI (Unofficial). This is what most have adopted for normal fuel pressure range. This ensures no matter what there is constant return fuel for cooling and lubrication purpose. As soon as the fuel pressure is in the 10-14 PSI bracket you start to lose the return flow. 10 PSI or lower the overflow valve is shut and no return flow will occur. The 2 cycle oil at 128:1 ratio is highly suggested for you because of the lack of return flow and low pressures. Myself I'm at 229k miles on my VP44 and still getting low 20's for MPG in the dead of winter and plan on reaching 300k with this pump.
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My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 sits for months and typical starts right up. I might remember to use the little truck for firewood and give it time to charge the battery. I agree it time to find the battery draw because these truck should only draw about 50mA typically with everything shut down.
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Try being down to -31*F. That's cold. At that temperature the IAT measures out at about +20*F this is getting seriously cold even for a running engine.
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It worries me more using a remote start and not being able to monitor engine oil pressure on initial start up. I'd rather be physically there to see the initial startup values. As for the high idle it will normal idle for period of time to allow the engine to get lubed up before putting more load on. As for remote start just set the switch for the mode you plan on needing the night before.