Mopar1973Man

Yeah...

Not suggested... Adding extra ground to mask over a problem tells me there are existing ground issues. As my article starts out... Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner.

My tune has enough power to light up the tires in 4th gear pulling 10,000 pounds of hay down the road. Yeah, you'll be happy with the power...

Well most are going to suggest Quadzilla Adrenaline now. With the Quadzilla you can make you own tunes to fit what your doing. So you can have a empty truck tune with a bit more power. Then a towing tune setup for towing that doesn't tear up the drive line or transmission.

Now that I've replaced my high idle / MPG fooler cable. I took a test drive today to see how it would react kind of a poor day to get good reading being the IAT temperature is well in the 80's and the fooler made little impact on the timing. It did how ever make a impact on the warm timing while the Quadzilla is still disable during its warm up process (Coolant <160*F). The timing was reduced and MPG's still remained higher than without. So I've got another trip to do in the morning so I'll have a good test bed in the morning for testing the MPG fooler against the Quadzilla.

I just want to attempt to kill off some Internet myths again. Cleaning IAT sensor WILL NOT improve engine performance or fix any engine problems. This right here is an IAT sensor for 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins 24V engine. This sensor has about 50k miles of gunk on it. This has ZERO impact on the sensor ability to read air temperature in the manifold. Cleaning the sensor will do nothing for performance or MPG. The way to check the IAT sensor for problems is with a live data tool like OBDLink, ScanGauge II or even the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Now at first key on of the day take note of the coolant and the IAT temperatures. They should match if they do nothing needs to be done. If the don't match then the IAT sensor will most likely need to be replaced not cleaned. When doing this testing make sure the block heater is not plugged in for that night.

I need to get the MPG fooler turned on before drop below 80*F IAT. MPG's are better with warmer IAT temperatures. It seems there is a heavy amount of advancement below 80*F IAT which kills off the MPG's. I've been attempting to avoid the fooler so not to muddy the tuning up for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. Come to find out you do need the MPG fooler to keep pushing forward MPG wise. Again let this be a lesson. Do don't assume that more timing is better for efficiency. In my case with the super cold air (<80*F IAT) ECM is toss quite a bit of timing on top of the tune. Yesterday's run the weather warmed up in the 30's and the snow was melting I I was bouncing just over the 80*F mark and the timing started retarding back to normal. MPG's started rising back to the 20's. Right now I've got no numbers being my tune is kind of fudged till I get my fooler back on line again.

Resistance is normal. Hall effect sensors typical have a coil inside with a magnet. So every time the tone wheel tooth pass it creates a sine wave. So if you put you meter on AC scale in the mV range you should see a AC voltage created. This is normal. I test brake speed sensors the same way.

@Me78569 yeah that is bit much. @MoparMom is the one asking me to upgrade the lights on the truck. I knew it's going to be pricey but rather do it right though.

Funny... I didn't know DAP sold Headlight being you look under the 19985 to 2002 there is nothing there. Then do a search for headlights then it pops up.

Ok so if I was to go with Sport headlights who would be the best?

I made several trips holding 23-24 MPG with interstate travel at 80 MPH. Like talking to @Me78569 I'm going to end up changing the IAT gauge from the cold mark from 60*F to 80*F. Also I've got to rehook up the MPG fooler. I was testing a first article cable from our new supplier and pull the wires out of my old cable on the IAT plug. This is where it would shine.

I'm starting to do my headlight research. I know there is all kinds of technology out there for lighting. I'm willing to jump forward to the HID lighting as long as its a DOT and SAE certified kit. I know I've got to replace my stock light the lens are fogging over and I know there are better headlight reflectors out there than stock. So my question is HID, sport headlight conversion with halogens, etc. Let's see some links, products, and reviews.

Congratulations for the excellent inspection. You covered all the bases and then some.

Thank you for posting that spec. I've been running the standard BHAF for years now and never a problem with getting wet or falling apart. Several times mine been wet from heavy rain showers or puddle jumping in the back roads.

Before I update the flash and APK for the Quadzilla I topped out at 22 MPG doing awesome with winter cold temps and everything. Now the last two trips are barely 17.x MPG. @Me78569 says the code is the same but for some reason, I can't find that sweet spot again.

I'll check on the way home.

Something changed... Puzzled...

@Me78569 Hey we need to figure out the upper RPM range for MPG. 65 MPH is OK at 18 to 20 MPG. But the 80 MPH is in the toilet like 14 to 15 MPG. I'm considering rolling back to see the old timing and comparing.

There is only 1 ground wire to worry about. It on the passenger side battery. All other grounds are for secondary stuff like light and horn.

Remember the store tester is running at full load when test diodes. The home test we do is at idle loads. So the numbers are different but the results should be the same. I would put the alternator back on the truck and just leave the field lead disconnected and take it for a ride. If the problem is gone then the alternator is creating excessive AC noise.

Sorry to say 47RE is still the same in either 2500 or 3500 series trucks. They both have the same weakness.

Already figured out. It will cost me $600 a month in fuel. Not much more than paying rent on a apartment. What will be the life saver is being able to haul the RV down and spend a entire week down in the Boise area if need be. Right now its about $45 to $50 a trip. So for the 3 trip for the week is $150. So there is 4 weeks in a month typically that comes out to $600 a month. Right now I'm a bit low in the MPG's being I'm working through the Quadzilla update and getting the tune figured out. Then toss in the fact of winter cold and snow. As the weather improves the MPG's will improve too. No for me. I count at least 5-10 car in the median every trip. All of them slid off the interstate and stuck on the middle. Some of them taken serious damage from striking concrete barricades. So far my truck travels on snow and ice extremely stable. Those 235's are gripping the highway very well. I've been through 3 different storms now and nothing has slowed me down yet. Now what will kill me is if I got to use the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 that is like a $80 dollar trip truck and that would get stupid expensive fast. As for small cars I've not found one that I can slide the seat back far enough or not have slump in the seat to keep from banging my head on the ceiling. Subaru absolutely not I don't fit in the car period. I've tried squeezing into a Hundai and again the seat doesn't go back far enough and my knees hit the steering wheel. I've always had to drive larger vehicles because of my size. Lot of truth in that... I've been part of the fire dept for now 10 years and seen plenty of vehicle accidents. Small cars you chances of life are very small at 80 MPH. Hit a deer or elk at 65 MPH again your chances at living are really low. Remember I've got to travel through wilderness areas, then down to interstate of break neck speeds (80 MPH) where most are doing closer to 90 MPH. I could travel down highway 55 which is shorter but now you have all the speed restrictions and poor highway conditons with the snow. Doesn't get any better. Now like MoparMom and I were talking tonight that I'll have a shopping list of things to do tomorrow. Like grocery shopping, I got to haul over to catch Mark on the high Idle cables, head over to Home Depot for some miscellaneous home stuff. I can still haul quite a bit more in the truck than a small car. So if Diesel "the dog" is in the back seat that means the cooler of our food would be in the trunk. So where do you put the groceries at? Where do you haul the cargo? So we pack blankets, food, the dog, etc. Little car won't hack it very well.

I forgot you run AMSOil. The dealer provided fluid is no longer produced. So I've jump into the same fluid used in Eaton Fuller transmissions and working very well. Just a heads up that Dealer fluid is no longer produced.