Mopar1973Man

How many miles do you have on your injectors?

Little experiment.. Take a small sample of Diesel kKeen and put it in a cup and leave it out in the open. Then leave a small sample of 2 cycle oil in cup. Now wait for a few days or weeks and tell me what you have afterward. I can tell you the 2 cycle oil will still be oil for any length of time. As for the Diesel Kleen you'll have a very sticky tar like substance. I can say there is no lubricant in Diesel Kleen. Absolutely true... You can soak your injectors in 100% diesel kleen and they will still be dirty month later. Carb dip will clean all the carbon off in a few minutes. Still requires full disassembly to clean them properly.

My current is here...

I've got a odd bug that shown up twice now with this update. The iQuad app will crash and not connect again. So to recover you have to select another vehicle and then return back to the Quadzilla V2 selection again. Re-enter all your settings again and it will work for awhile till it crashes again I've seen this 3 times now. I'm not sure if its the APK or what.

I'm going to bet the flash wasn't done right. Throttle, brake, speed and transmission in gear (auto) will cancel the high idle. By chance did you do any APPS sensor adjustments for voltage? If so it's possible your still throttling mode and the ECM will not set the high idle mode. @Sycostang67 if you need to I'm down in the Boise area every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday I could look at it and verify the signals are correct.

I would again try test driving again with the field lead and the alternator fuse disconnected. If the problem continues then the PCM and electrical to the transmission would be my next step to isolate what's going on. I would consider a output speed sensor on the transmission maybe would help with the issue.

That's a passing grade.

Be careful. Cetane levels will change the weight of diesel fuel. Again be careful... I don't run GAS in my diesel engine... I run FUEL...

I wasn't sure how it would work out with the slower canyon driving. So I was trying to keep it lower. But why not its all beta testing...

ECONOMY TUNE TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 7 RPM Limit: 3500 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 20% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1800 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 100% TPS Pump Minimum: 25% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 11 PSI Boost Scaling: 40 PSI TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Cruise Timing Adv: 4.5* Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit: 10 PSI RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 17 2000 RPM: 19 2500 RPM: 23 3000 RPM: 25 Max: 26 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI:100 1 PSI:101 2 PSI:102 3 PSI:103 4 PSI:105 5 PSI:106 6 PSI:108 7 PSI:109 8 PSI:110 9 PSI:112 10 PSI:113 11 PSI:115 12 PSI:116 13 PSI:118 14 PSI:119 15 PSI:121 16 PSI:122 18 PSI:126 20 PSI:129 22 PSI:132 24 PSI:136 26 PSI:139 28 PSI:143 30 PSI:147 This is my current tune I'm running. Now I'm kind of bind coming to the new "Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit" being when you do crank up to 80 MPH your bobbing up and down the boost pressure between 10-20 PSI depending on the roll of the land. So this tends to make the trigger point way too high for slower travels. 80 MPH is a real tough one to keep going and getting good MPG's. One day it can show great numbers and then another day be rather low. The other part is making sure you not tripping into your wire tap state. This why I've got my minimum TPS value set high to 25% to give a wider range of throttle without wire tap and not rely on the boost pressure. The other thing I'm seeing is when it does lock into cruise state it does jump up to about 20* to 20.5* of timing which is about right but when it kicks out its dropping to 14.5* to 15*. Now I kind of wondering if the fuel load timing is the problem here and drop it to ZERO.

Gotta bring it back...

Found it... @JAG1 Here is what I'm running... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/EXT21468

OMG...

Story line... Being I've got MoparMom dialysis trip I've got to do every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday I've got at least 362-mile trip to Boise and back home. Now it's 4 hours of driving to get to Boise, and then she is there for 4 hours, then 4 hours to drive home. So, this gives me good time for focusing on MPG tuning for a single day. Ok, got some figures for you guys to toss out. I'm sure you all going to roll your eyes like what I thought your doing better than that. I know my tablet is very close to correct but there are a few factors to be aware... Idle time is one factor. Being it has been so cold I've spent many days going back out to fire up the truck to keep the dog from freezing to death in the truck, some days I would go back out to the truck and take a nap or if I had MoparMom with me I would leave her in the truck idling to keep her warm. The tablet cannot track idling fuel consumption at all. Now, high idle 3 or 6 cylinder produces enough load that it is tracked knowing the consumption rates I don't normally use them for very long. Also, there are days around the house where I don't fire up the tablet or have it in the truck so those trips to the dump, local town, were not tracked. There is a few you'll see I did fire up and shows a way low reading. Now the tablet... The tablet isolates by days not by tank to tank runs like the spreadsheet above. So I'm do my best to make sure from this point that I'm data logging every single trip to getting closer matching number. Remember the tablet below is by day and not tank. The spread above is tank by tank and logging idle time (staying warm in the cab) where the tablet can't. I tend to favor the tablet more so being it allows me to be free for some days and play and work hard without worrying about destroying my perfect MPG logs for tank to tank. Which just one show off run or one good heavy trailer run will do that and bring the spreadsheet numbers down fast. Where day to day you can focus for the day and buckle down and then relax the next day. Much more flexable. So remember... Some of my weather has been bit cold... (dated)

@Carbur8tr Could you fill out your signature with your mods so I can see what you got for mods on the truck. Also I'm creating a MPG thread for Quadzilla.

I agree with that... Just small upgrades like mention above will make a huge improvement in towing power without killing the transmission quickly. Don't get me wrong but the 47Re transmission is the weakest link in the truck so that will have to be upgraded even if you don't add power. This will be enough to cover the mild upgrade above. LOL. I know what you mean.

Since @Me78569 and company have the tuning thread for performance side. I'm going to start the ecomony and MPG thread for the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I'll be posting up my MPG logs and all data I can provide of what I've got going on. I've been keeping hand math logs of all fuel purchased as well as my tablet running OBDII link LX and data logging from that direction too. I'll share my tunes and settings as well. QUADZILLA TUNES CURRENTLY LOADED (Check back often file is updated at random times) Quadzilla Ardrenaline.xlsx

I've already given up... When you are driving at least 362 miles every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday you know fuel expenses are the highest thing right now. Roughly comes out to $600 a month in fuel alone. Doesn't leave much flex room for the budget here. So yes, this why I posted this topic and seeing if people would consider the shirt idea. Thought was more of a double hit produce some income and also get more advertising by the shirts. But at this point, I'm not going to do the shirts. This is dead end...

NAPA... No joke... 3" Straight flow through muffler.

Optimal IAT temperatures is 100 to 140F. Below 80F there is loss of MPG and wild change in timing.

0.01 to 0.03 is normal. 0.05 is marginal. 0.10 is failing. Remember these numbers are for the home test. Bench test machine is going test under full load. So be careful I need to know what method you used.

Ok. I'm enjoying the new flash. You have to make sure that the cruise pressure is high enough that you can keep it in cruise state. Then make sure your wire tap pressure is at least one pound over the cruise pressure. So I made the mistake of tuning for 55-65 MPH and then hit the interstate and struggled to keep the boost down enough to keep the cruise timing. I've got that corrected now. I did something unusual this trip and isolated my logs for my city driving. So after traveling around town in stop-go traffic for 10 miles doing miscellaneous shopping I still turned out a whopping 29.12 MPG logging only the city travel. This is with city traffic and speed limits of 30-40 MPH tops. My total for the tank right now is 21.6 MPG which isn't too bad. Still tweaking and tuning on the way home from here. I'm going to start splitting up my MPG logs and sampling more.

Suggestion... Divide the timing sections up for cruise timing and performance timing so the general public will see it as two different functions.

From an MPG standpoint, you want high timing under low engine loads. Fuel Load Timing is counter productive. So on an economy tune, you want that set to 0. On a performance tune, I could see using that to gain good spooling of the turbo. Like on my economy tune I'm been using the "Low PSI Reduct" to kick the turbo up quickly on spool. Like today I jumped from 3* to 5* in this setting which gives a sudden drop of timing to light the turbo and then pops right back up nearly instantly. Gives me an idea on the performance tune though on how to use it I might play a bit tomorrow in Boise... (Evil laughter).

I'm seeing roughly 21-23 MPG with 362 mile round trip to Boise. This is mixed driving all the way around. Mostly highway at 65 MPH. Some interstate travel at 80 MPH and then mixed city travel ranging from 25-45 MPH in the cities/towns. The best I can say is aim for the 19-20* timing on the highway and create a tune that is smokeless. The better your tune becomes the lower the EGT's will become so will engine load. Like I'm capable of running nearly 10-15 MPH faster at the same EGT's as my old Edge Comp tuner did. @Me78569 lastest update in software is really good from the quick test run I ran today. Way better control of timing on the highway now vs. engine load. It's getting rather stupid powerful for economy tune when I can light the tires up in 2nd, 3rd and bark 4th I'm having hard time calling that my economy tune. Load Timing actually retards timing based on engine load. So low engine load will have the highest amount of retarding power. Then as engine load goes higher towards 100% then max timing is given. I'm running ZERO in this position. I would love to but right now I'm in a period of constant change and testing so what I've got right now might change again by tomorrow evening as I study the timing and MPG as I travel. Give me a few days I'll release my setting that is working.