Mopar1973Man

Right here...

I hate to say it. I now know why the relay kit. The low beams are awesome, much wider path of light and very good quality. The high beam is horrid... Like OMG where did the light go? The high beams are a narrow slot of light as wide as the highway but the quality isn't that great at all. So I now understand the relay kit and why it's needed. When the relay kit is installed the two bulbs work in tandem and provide much more light. But with the splitter cable supplied is not a good option at all. So anyone going to consider the sport headlight option make sure to order the set with the relay kit.

Most folk pull power from the battery. +12V -> 20A Fuse -> Pin 30 on the Relay -> Pin 87 out to the lift pump Black / White on the lift pump lead -> Pin 86 of the relay White/yellow on the lift pump lead -> Pin 85 of the relay (trigger power).

Most all aftermarket fuel systems today have a trigger relay and 20 amp fuse. I would highly suggest relay and fuse protection to prevent the full load of the pump being placed on the ECM like OEM setup is.

Here is what most people upgrade with. http://dieselautopower.com/upgraded-sport-light-harness-with-relays-9402slh/ What its about is getting true 12V power to the headlight and making them as bright as possible. The stock system seems to be limited on power and not supplying full 14 volts to the bulbs. So instead of paying the price for the kit I can build my own and save a few bucks just gotta get the plugs and relays and build my own.

Hmmm... Hang on to them I might send you a few dollars for them...

From what I seen on the bulbs there are both 9004 and 9007 bulbs used standard halogen bulbs no brand name on them. I remember seeing 65w on one bulb for wattage. As for the headlight cases, they are good quality seem to have a light tint to the lens. Brackets are OEM design look identical to the ones I removed. The only thing you have to do is loosen your bumper bolts and tilt it down and the headlights can be removed. You don't need to remove the entire bumper to install. Wiring wise there are wired so that you still just 1 bulb per side. So one bulb is your hi and the other bulb is your lo beam. This is good so it's not placing huge loads on the headlight switch and dimmer switch. No, I did not get the relay kit my budget is rather tight these days. As for building my own, I've got an idea in my head of how I would do it. More than likely just like all the other kits you can purchase today. The biggest thing is getting your paws on the headlight plugs.

Easy way. Empty or nearly empty fuel tank. Grab two cam buckle straps. Strap the tank in place. Remove the two band holding the tank. Ease the tank down enough so you can knock the collar loose with a blunt square stock and hammer. Unscrew the collar allow the sender to stand up. Continue to lower the tank and then you'll have all the room in the world to properly squeeze the release tabs. This works well. I've had truck where the tabs are between the tube and the tank body impossible to squeeze and release.

Gotta toss out a big "Thank You!" to @dieselautopower... Headlights sold by DAP. http://dieselautopower.com/standard-to-sport-edition-headlight-conversion-9402spchl/ Very nice looking headlights. Clear lens and looks very nice on the truck and doesn't look like a euro-truck or something stolen from a UFO. I've still got to adjust the aim of the lights tonight. I guess there is something else to add to my Garage list. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/267-sport-headlight-conversion/

Just for fun today since I'm at home I had to make a quick trip to McCall, ID. So I went for the full hypermiling again like I use to and turned a 20.3 MPG for the day. Mostly highway travel. I'll be heading out for my long haul tomorrow and finish this tank of fuel out.

When you data log you need all the information you can get.

Ok... Lets see some pictures... If you make that mistake its easy to correct. Shut your key OFF wait 10 seconds. Then make sure you select the proper mode (OFF, 6 CYL or 3 CYL). Now turn your key on and wait for the light and start as usual. The 10 second wait will shut down the ECM and allow a fresh reboot at the next key on.

My fill up today netted hand math of 18.73 MPGs. As for the OBDLink im less than 1% error between hand math and the tablet. Im going to verify on the next tank. As for the timing change didn't do much to the MPG numbers. In going to try shaving another 0.5 degrees off the cruise timing.

Call Eric at Vulcan Performance he'll have the fitting your looking for. Won't be the same but I'm sure he'll have something.

I'm working on it.

Like myself my majority is 65 MPH highways so I'm going to build on the 65 MPH and use the Truck lane for interstate and old to 70 MPH which is Truck speed limit. This will make it easier to build my economy tune.

I don't know what to say I normal just do it by hand and no torque wrench. Never had an issue.

I think it has to do with injector size that making the difference I've got smaller nozzles than you So you require more timing to light off the bigger droplets. You might knock 0.5 or 1 degree off the cruise timing and see what happens.

Appears like the 17 degree timing is working way better for MPGs compared to the 20.5 degrees I was running previously. I'm at 323 miles at half tank. I'll calc and calibrate at the next fill on the way home. More to come...

Way better this trip. No injector miss. Running about 17 degrees of timing, very quiet, very little rattle.

I'm going to bet you broke above 80*F on the IAT when that happens.

There was a TSB for early model truck for change out of cross over tubes because it is easy to crush or distort the crossover tubes. Another thought is that it's possible the pooled fuel in the tube area is just expanding out. After doing any injector work I typically ignore the fuel for a few days then power wash and then check. 99% the leak is gone. DO NOT use any sealants on the nuts or lines it will cause serious issues. Plugging of the cross over tubes, injectors, etc. The sealing point of the system is the o-rings (return rail) and the tapered tip and flute of the crossover tube. So if the leak is truly not going away that means new lines and cross over tubes.

You can pry the injectors out with a small screwdriver and being careful. Crossover tubes basically the same way they can be pried out with a small screwdriver. Basically, you just need the injectors.

Cleaning either the MAP sensor or IAT sensor never fixes anything. I agree with @Me78569 check for boost leaks.