Mopar1973Man

The timing curves and setup is still quite a mystery to all of us being this is the first tuner that gives a wide range of timing control vs anything else on the market. All other programmers and modules have been just a boxed tune and take it or leave it type of thing so now trying to figure out what works best are going to take all of us to figure out and share our tune. So I've created a excel spreadsheet and going to keep it updated. I've also included an exponential growth calculator so you can create smooth fuel or timing curves. Set the start point and the percentage of growth and it will lay out 0 to 30 for calculation. For timing just think 0 to 4 and those are your numbers. Yes, Quadzilla does allow decimal point numbers in both timing and fueling.

UPDATE! I've now added a exponential growth calculator to my Excel sheet so no longer do you have to wander back and forth to calculate fuel maps or timing map curves. The spreadsheet is on the first post of this thread.

Might take a peek at my economy tune as well. I've been keeping the Excel up to date when I make changes.

Sorry, no salvage yards around me. This is why I'm trying to source out the terminals for a clean install with the possible idea of making a kit to actually sell that would give a clean install of the sport headlights. Instead of the hack kits with 4 relays, 4 fuses, etc. Why not 1 relay in the existing socket and 1 fuse in the existing socket in the PDC?

I've got a lot of canyon roads that have mild up or down grades. So mild that I can keep the boost well below 10 PSI but the load can vary 10-20% typically. So like for example if the truck is traveling flat ground and the encounters a light down grade that engine loads is reduced 5% it would be nice to push like 1* more timing. Or if the reverse happened like a small knoll hill timing would retard say 1*. Would be different if I lived in Texas where everything is basically flat and then the whole set cruise timing would be fine. But then there is folks like me that live in the mountains with rolling hills and highways where a fixed timing isn't optimal. Watching stock vary up and down as small changes of load occur but Quadzilla basically holds timing to RPM that's it. So if cruise control is set then RPM doesn't really change much but engine load and boost pressure do.

I've got Mark over at The Harness Shop doing some digging for the terminals and seeing if he can get them. If so it might be a nice clean Sport headlight kit that people might want to buy from "Mopar1973Man.Com Store". Possibly idea... We'll see. I've also contacted DAP and let them know the supplied splitter cable is pinned wrong on the main bulb.

Just to confirm @Me78569... In cruise state... we should see timing advancement during period low engine loads. Then as load increases then the timing should retard. Based on the boost pressure setting remain in Then if it kicks out to performance mode... Keep the current fuel load timing you have now. Where timing retards with lower engine load but advances with high engine loads.

Ok. My first step. I doing this from experimental point of view so nothing is finished per say. The adapter harness I managed to repin as a pass-thru lead now for the main reflector and bulb. I did find out that the supplied splitter cable is pinned wrong on the main bulb on lo beam selected it actually on the hi beam filament on the bulb. So I had to repin again to correct that. You'll find that you have to trade the white and blue on the DAP kit to correct the hi/lo problem. @WiscoRedkneck now I want to know where you got your connectors for the relay and the fuse rail? I've got the hot side of the fuse rail but the load side is missing. As for the relay socket its missing all contacts in the Quad Hi Beam socket. What I want to do is populate the relay with both the 87 and 87a contacts so both hi/lo will be functional. Being I need the truck tomorrow for another Boise run I'm going to stop right here till WiscoRedneck can provide info for connectors. I found the fuse clip for the PDC... http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12004568-L/?qs=Q2Rsuhc0qGvr8WOrkX1Eew%3D%3D Having problems finding uninsulated female spade connectors with locking tabs.Rather common connector but tough to find so far.

Absolutely... That is what I'm after I want to do things so they appear right and not like a huge hack job. Every single headlight conversion kit I've looked at has the power connected to the battery terminal. Absolutely not an option in my book. Yes I know there is very small gain if you use these kits but no worth the mess for the minor gain you'll get. Again here is that battery lead... Seen in the photo just a ring terminal...

This trip to Boise I found the 4 female headlight plugs for 4.99 a piece. Then found 40A relays for 6.88 a piece. Now I'm not going to do my design on the all the after market design where they power both bulbs from the relays. I'm going to follow the stock design but add the lo beam. This will be a very simple design. Basically the main bulb will connect normally to the truck but adding the re-pin for the 9004 to 9007 change over. Then the secondary bulb I will pull power from the PDC and use the main headlight as trigger for the relay. So my first step is to make the main bulbs operate with high and low beam which is taking the current splitter cable and making a straight through 9004 to 9007 conversion. More I keep looking at the wiring diagram I wonder if I can just use everything in the PDC? Like the fuse (Fuse E), Relay (Quad High) I know the pin sockets are all there I wonder if I can get the connectors for those sockets? Boy that would make it even more like stock and nothing like "Rik Ram" where there is relays tied to the batteries an extra fuses hanging. Designing minds...

That was my thought. This why I'm not a huge fan of the Fuel Load Timing because of it backward to what you just said. It retarding timing at low loads and advancing fully at 100% engine load. Using the info from @Me78569 about Smarty wanting 20* of timing I started a bit high and working my way back slowly. The thing is still there is also the factory of nozzle size too you and @me78569 are much larger than me so more timing would be required vs myself being you need more timing to convert the fuel and to ignition. This why I kept pulling down and retarding from what I'm seeing. Being my exponential curve worked really well on my fuel curve I'm going to try it out on the timing side. Last few have been rather linear growth rate +2 or something of that sort. Now trying exponential.

So many things to consider. Cetane of the winterized fuel, intake air temperature, coolant temperature, RPM's, engine load, etc. I'm gaining on it but rather little feedback from the OBDLink or Quadzilla to tell if you're heading the right direction or not. But what happens if you injecting less fuel, lower engine loads? That's the weird part I'm not racing here just cruising. I know there is certain amount of advancement required between the speed of the crank and the explosion of the fuel. So say for example I'm turning mere 1,600 RPM (about 55 MPH), engine load below 20%. So this is lower in RPM, lower in engine load, less fuel injected, etc.

That's what I just learned. Man, this is tougher than hell trying to figure out what is good and bad timing wise. The thing I am realizing still the Quadzilla holds timing fairly solid to one spot. True that lower timing numbers tend to build power faster. Higher timing number are better for efficiency. The weird part is trying to find the curve that works the best. Between the max timing table and the cruise timing setting is puzzle. Like I told you @Me78569 I've been limiting my travels to highway 55 mostly 55-65 MPH travel so I can figure out this mystery or puzzle. I will admit cruise boost pressure about 10 PSI is about optimal for normal highway driving (55-65 MPH) it kicks out just about the right time during grades. So I guess I need to fix my "Max Timing Table". more or less tweak it a bit. (Exponential growth 12% starting at 16) 1500 - 16.0 2000 - 17.9 2500 - 20.0 3000 - 22.4 Max - 25.1

As of today. The only thing changed. I dropped -0.5 from my cruise timing (6.5 current). Liking the current setup on the cruise timing. It floating right around 20-21*F from 55-65 MPH. Returned home today showing 21.0 on the OBDLink for this tank. Now I did try resampling level 0 timing and got way different number each time I was checking at different speed and loads. Now I scratching my head again and trying to figure out how I got that last set of measures on level 0.

Same here... I ran 185k on my OEM brakes and now heading to 300k on economy brake pads. Lot of people call me a cheater for having an exhaust brake. So why is it that I've got a 1996 Dodge 1500 (46RE auto, V8 5.9L) and kept brakes on that for over 160k miles? No exhaust brake on that truck. I've still got my OEM rotors yet on the 2002. @Me78569 is right you are best off with a low grade brake pads that will not eat the rotor.

Very risky doing a pulley setup. The only way I would do a pulley setup is if the eyelets are bolt style in the canopy or off a piece of angle steel bolted to the edge. If it's just floating on 2x4's wouldn't take much for that to be off balance and slide off crashing to the ground. But if the ropes are clipped to eyelet bolted to the canopy it will be much safer.

Mine as aluminum so I just lifted it off the Truck by hand and solo. My old fiberglass was so heavy it took 3 guys to lift it on and off. For a heavy canopy I would highly suggest manually lifting it on and off.

3rd fear is hydraulic shift where 4th gear is electronic and so is the lockup. So 2nd to 3rd is having issues I'd say valve body and 2nd to 3rd shuttle is sticking.

I got mine at the shop that rebuilt the transmission. Weller Truck - Boise, Idaho. I know NAPA sells the 50 SAE transmission fluid as well Valvoline brand and I think there own store brand (NAPA) as well. It's a GL-4 Synthetic gear lubricant. I'm heading towards 30k miles no discoloring, no carbon syncro in the fluid, shifting well. 5 gallons for $134... That's cheap compared to Dealer fluid at $125 for a gallon. Double check that its GL-4 synthetic. https://www.napaonline.com/p/VNJ329

I'll double check again... Next trip.

Hua?! Stock Level 0 on the Quadzilla I can reach 20* at 65 MPH no tune at all? No MPG fooler used either. Again trying to get a point of reference that I can build from.

Now if there was a setting that was reversed for the cruise side... Hmmm... Low load, high timing... High load, low timing... But for now I'm not going to muddy the water any more than needed. After talking to you I figure I would build the performance side to mirror the stock timing map as closely as possible. The only hitch I found was the 1500 range (measuring on the throttle at 1,600 RPMs) the stock timing is 19* which is not possible with the adjustment which is a max of 18 on the 1500 RPM position. So my current setting are 18, 20, 22, 24, 26 on the max timing. Linear map. Now the cruise timing is cranked up to 7 which is actually closer to 3* over the stock map. Never having the ability to see timing and know what to do with it kind of weird to figure out how to make tunes. Now that I've traveled down the timing map as far as 12* at the lowest point I can say there is little change MPG wise down lower. I will admit that launching has a lot of power from the get go. Now with the current tune (updated on the first post) the engine clatter is louder now but it comes and goes with RPM and load. Mostly heard climbing mountain grades. This still doesn't explain the miss after long highway travels. Now that I'm cranked up it not missing at stops again. Eventually I'll be heading back over to the interstate side once the highway for the flooding is dealt with. Highway 95 Weiser, Idaho last week... Being worried about over timing the whole time keep me pulling down the timing. Now after watching stock Level 0 for quite a distance I knew that higher timing is possible but how high? Unknown. I'm not in a racing application, strictly setting the cruise control and rolling the miles. @Me78569 You said the Cruise Timing is based on 17* start correct?

Regardless of numbers I finally got close to a good spot. I made my round trip to Boise and back home for the first time and have used less than a half tank a fuel. No, I didn't stop for fuel so now I'm going to make another 1/2 trip back down on Thursday with the remaining fuel no problem. Using what you told me about the timing map the amount of time in the canyon passes I remain out of cruise timing and low in the throttle input so "fuel load timing" would indeed affect the timing and being the throttle input is low it constantly retarding timing instead of advancing. That setting would be awesome if it can if was reversed. Advanced timing under low load and retarded timing under high load or deep throttle like low pressure reduct does. So, in this case, I simply shut the function off being it's retarding more than advancing.

That's normal. If you store the truck in an enclosed shelter the temperature will be more like 100*F. The whole idea of keeping the wind off the engine and the dead cold off and allowing the heat to warm an enclosure will make it slightly better.

Bad injector o-ring will leak fuel into the oil just as @dripley said. Bad crossover o-ring will leak fuel out on the intake manifold. It will not leak fuel into the oil. Bad copper washer will leak compression gasses into the fuel tank. The fuel tank pressure problem. There is only 3 ways I know of for fuel to enter the oil. 1. Bad VP44 front seal leaking fuel into the gear case. 2. Bad injector o-ring leaking return fuel into the head area. 3. Bad injector that is spraying fuel at the wrong time and pushing fuel past the piston rings.