Mopar1973Man

I would consider trading the stock dampener back on and seeing if the problem changes. If so then I would be looking at the lower end.

I'm in neutral at every stop I come too. So I hear the step down idle and then the once it steps down the vert faint misfire starts. It only takes me pulling on the steering wheel or pressing harder on the brake to kill it off. Now when it was bad it would shake the entire cab and loads wasn't enough to stop the miss. The funny part is shut it down for 30-60 seconds and start again the miss is gone. I shown a few friends this and then are scratching their heads. I do know it an injector issue for sure. This is exactly what happened to my RV275's when they went. Pop pressure fell to 240bar. Thes injectors don't even have 100k miles yet. I will say that Quadzilla is not the cause per say. It might be producing conditions that create the issues. I will say it not the cause. All I know it period of long highway speed that will start the miss only at idle. I've had this issue on the Edge Comp in the past. I might be just unlucky to have injectors going south. Another way I'm going about tuning is to flip to ZERO level (stock) sample the timing the the timing given for different loads, speeds and attempt to slightly advance that timing. Thing to remember is the stock OEM timing is built around EPA rules not performance. This is why I look back still at a few thing like my MPG fooler it retards timing to gain MPG's which is usually because of the excessive cold IAT timing map. Then looking back on p7100 tuners that are not racing typically set for 16* to 17* typically for highway vehicles. I'm trying to base my tune on the fact I'm typically 15-30% engline load for hours, boost pressure is typically <5 PSI. So as for huge timing I just don't see it when I spin the RPM's barely 1,600 to 1,900 for 55-65 MPH. The only time this rule changes is 55 in 4th gear now steps up to 2,100 RPM's and running 80 MPH on I84 then I'm turning nearly 2,400 RPM but at 15 PSI of boost.

You got to remember those guys are also running monster fire nozzle injectors typically too. I'm running nearly stock +50 HP injector (7 x 0.008) so my fuel is atomized rather well and doesn't require the extra timing to get the fuel to light off. Also I'm running high cetane fuels right now with winter fuel still being supplied.

I've gone through my injectors and hand cleaned them all and re-polished the pintle shoulders and tips to make sure there was no debris or burrs. It reduced the miss to very faint level after hard runs. Basically chucked up the pintle and using a shop rag and some polishing compound to polish the pintle smooth. Still high speed runs tends to make it more noticeable. I'm back down... way down... 14* performance and 16-17* cruise timing. I'm still roughly 2-3* over stock numbers. 1500 - 14* 2000 - 16* 2500 - 18* 3000 - 21* Max - 24* Cruise - 4* Fuel Load - 2*

It would cause issues since the tone wheel isn't lined up with the sensor...

That is a ABS issue. I've had the same thing go wrong. I've rebuilt the ABS module and now I've still got the ABS lights on. It's something to do with the front speed sensors it will prevent the brakes from being applied. The ABS module will actually back pump you so the pedal can't be applied. It's not a hydrobooster problem that I know of.

Well I've done some work in regards to this. I can manage to do this in two relays. The problem is the factory OEM layout uses the open pin to shut down the lights so if you wire the other filament to that open pin then you end up with that filament on all the time. So there needs to be a power relay before the switching relay. I've got contacts for the large relay socket (labelled spare). I'm going to need contact for the Quad Head socket which are 1/4" terminals. I'm still going to build it to fit in the PDC and use the PDC fuses. Still will be cleaner than all the other headlight kits.

If it's got injector cleaner it going to be a cetane booster. If you look at all the solvents that "clean injectors" its going to have the same effect of cetane booster. Also there is no such thing as injector cleaner in a bottle. "Period" http://opti-lube.com/downloads/MSDS/DFI-XL-MSDS.pdf You might want to look at the MSDS sheet. Xylene is a PPD (pour point depressant) also used in cetane boosters. Common paint thinner. Petroluem Naptha is basically Coleman Fuel. Coleman Fuel - http://www.nafaa.org/Coleman_MSDS.pdf So as I've just pointed out there is several things in Opti-lube that will alter cetane rating of the fuel.

The only thing I don't like about Opti-lube is that is mostly a cetane booster too. As you adding more cetane to the fuel you reducing the BTU's. As BTU's go down so does the MPG's Hence why every winter we fight lower MPG numbers because of higher cetane fuels. On the other hand 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reduced and adds back to the BTU content.

As for my 2.0% fuel curve on the performance side I'm really loving that tune. Stupid powerful now, just a bit of smoke but it clears right up. Also liking my lighter timing curve. Topped my old HP and TQ numbers. I'll post later tonight. Timing... You really have to think about all your conditions. Fuel cetane, driving style, IAT temperature, injector sizes, etc. I'm starting to hear the timing and what works best. I've heard tales of old mechanics being able to time by ear... Well I'm figuring it out.

You have to wait quite awhile for the export to gather up its stuff. It seems like your last export is incomplete the last few lines are more or less junk missing data.

Different donation management software. When was your last donation? Way I've checked nut sizes is find a bolt that easily threads into the nut. Then now you can get the nut to match the thread and pitch of the bolt you now have that fits the OEM nut.

Darn people and iPhones... http://www.obdlink.com/mxwf/ That's the WiFi series. When the Android Bluetooth is much cheaper. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ This scan tool has been the best money so far exceed ScanGauge II by a long shot. Cordless so you can have you tablet out by the engine and not have to keep hoping back in the cab to see data.

Made major changes to both tunes. I know for sure than the previous performance curve starting at 105% and 1.8% growth just had a little bit of smoke but clears fast. EGT's spike rather quickly at 1,300*F now. Really getting serious power out of the Quadzilla. So I jumped even higher on the performance side to a full 2.0% growth rate. So knowing the limits of the performance side now I can back down the economy tune making it nearly smokeless now but getting the widest fuel map possible without smoke. Again I'm going to back down my timing curve I'm not like I'm racing but looking for a quick burst of power to pass other vehicles and such. My first post is updated with all my current numbers.

You'll hear it. The rattle will get rather pronounced. I've got to update me tune log again I jump up to 1.9% on the fuel map really got some power building but now I've got to watch the smoke amount and the EGT's actually bounces off the EGT limit at 1,300*F compared to my economy tune which you could mat it and take nearly everything to touch 1,200*F. Performance timing slider vs cruise state timing are different. You can limit performance say 16* at 1500 RPM and then be at 1600 RPM with a cruise timing of 20*. So no the max timing does not limit the cruise timing but it does limit the performance timing. I'm also learning quickly at what the tuning game is all about. With all the stuff I read about P7100 timing and tuning you figure that would help... Nope. The only thing I can give is that the general idea of timing is more advancement moves the torque curve up in RPM's. So it's a matter of figuring out this torque curve and getting the timing to push it along at the same rate as your throttling or cruising. So there is no set magical point or way of copying someone's tune to hit dead on. You might get close but you'll always be tweaking just a wee bit to get the most out of it.

Yeah that is quite a bit farther. Offer still stands.

I don't think you getting into cruise state and still in performance state. Make sure you boost on the Quadzilla isn't exceeding the cruise boost state. Make sure you holding throttle even and steady. You should hear it and see it flip to cruise timing.

What?! Spokane is only 228 miles to my place that's not far at all. I'm only driving 362 miles every other day.

I'd do it for you if you brought me a bearing kit for my turbo. I'll trade you labor for the bearing kit. I might bring the beer for the shop time too.

Here is what is in my SAR's bag behind my seat of my truck. I use to use it for both. https://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Waterproof-Hiking-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B000066TPO/ref=sr_1_1?s=gps&ie=UTF8&qid=1488130222&sr=1-1&keywords=garmin+gps+V

I should have to install any apps to make up for shortcomings of an app. Like OBDLink telling me I need a tasker app to make the OBDLink App to auto connect to the Bluetooth every time I start the truck. Oh, Wait... Quadzilla does that without the tasker app. So why do I need to have folder app to just save log files to the memory of the phone? Oh, Wait... Google Docs or MS Word does that right now without exporting files to a folder App. So again this is a shortcoming of the app that needs to be considered and possibly corrected. Not everyone has instant access to WiFi, cell service or internet to transfer files to a cloud and back to computer nor should we have to load a bunch of extra apps to make up for short comings of the main app. Yes, I'll load up the folder explorer app just to band-aid it for now...

Someone want to have fun... Here start digging through my data log from Boise, ID to Midvale, ID. Couple of things I'm going to bring up with @Quadzilla Power is... 1. The data logs don't need multiple rows of the same timestamp just waste space in storage. 2. The files need to stored on the accessible memory of the device so you don't need to upload to download them again as well as hunting for WiFi or cell signal just so you can get the logs. It would be MUCH easier to just plug in my USB cable and download on my laptop in the front seat of my truck and be able to preview. Right now I might have to drive to a local city or home for WiFi or cell service to get Google drive to upload so I can now fire up WiFi hotspot on my cellphone to download again. Rather pain in the rear... iQuad-2017-02-25-04.47.21-739196234.csv

Check out the dowload section all the flash tunes are posted on the site now with mirror links back to Quadzilla website as well.

I'm already do that. Wait till I post my monthly report of fuel and expense. Ugh!!

The gent you want to talk to is @Cowboy he's our 12V guru on the site. Did you slide the plate forward?