Mopar1973Man

New circuit boat design right? So double check the coolant plugs and double check your switch position. If still not working create a support ticket and we'll deal with the problem.

Ummm... EGR all you doing is flooding the air mixture with CO2. Everyone is so wrap up with cold air having denser charge of oxygen but then accept the idea of EGR pump exhaust gases and CO2 back in the intake. Then you got to have the EGR cooler to make sure the intake temps do get out of hand. (sarcasm) Yeah, EGR is such a great device every truck needs one! (/sarcasm) EGR - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation Nicely packed up intake on a 6.7L Cummins... Electronics look at the 2003 and up Dodge's you'll see the multi-injection event is not as efficient and also the timing it heavily retarded. So there is no extra power really here. They managed to take a million mile engine and turn it into a about 200-300k mile engine that is completely wore out. After doing a full delete on 6.7L and see the results. I can tell you all you newer electronics and EGR is not helping the engine in any way. Being the deleted truck has way more power and ran much cleaner without the EGR and DPF. So with all the losses of the newer electronics and EGR more loss of fuel BTU's... I really don't see how high cetane fuel will gain you anything...

I don't see how? Being there is less energy per gallon. If high cetane is so good we all be wanting winter fuel to hang around longer and hate to see summer fuel when cetane numbers go down again.

I will quote again from the ASTM testing labs... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability." As you'll see between winterized fuel that is high cetane vs. low cetane of the summer time... Dark green 133-134K BTU's for summer fuel at about 43 cetane. Light Green 126K BTU's for winter fuel at about 54 cetane.

Look up the MSDS sheets for it you'll be able to make a judgement call then... Here is a post I found with a MSDS sheet... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3277925/Re:_Archoil_AR6200

Nicely done... That alternator bracket looks a bit out of place to the rest of the stuff...

Kwel... Glad to hear the truck is working out for you. Also glad to see you pop back in once in awhile to say hi...

I can only imagine that that replacing those injectors will be in the same ball park of every 100-150k miles figuring from $580 per injector is about 4,600 roughly speaking. Then all the DPF issues and EGR cooler... Oh my I bet that a real pain in the rear to change that stuff out when it plugs up.

I wouldn't want one... I can just imagine what changing the injectors are like on that tight little engine and engine bay. I'm sure they still have the injector failures just like all the other common rail ISB engines do.

Here is my article...

FEBRUARY FUEL LOGS Nearly 4,000 miles later. +0.59 MPG gain over last month. I will admit I was playing with the performance tune on the last two trips and having a bit of fun. So you'll see a bit more down turn on my off days... So you can see I was playing hard... Now if you take notice to the double fill on Feb. 4 you notice that the logs are nearly right on. That was during my period of calibration. But i'll do another here shorting after I'm done playing with my Economy tune and getting the timing set up. Now at 21-22nd you see my error crept back in... Being the price of fuel is sprung up on me I need to knuckle down and get this tuning done for the Economy tune. So play time is over. Time to start hitting big MPG numbers again.

My elevation is lower as well. I might travel over a few high point but spend a majority of time at 2,000 to 3,000 foot range on my runs. Max might reach 5,200 feet (Outside McCall, ID). I got to admit I love my performance tune I'm lower in the timing curve but pulls so darn hard. Now as for the economy tune I'm attempting to find the sweet spot on this. Starting a bit high and going to work my way down. I know with the current factors 20* and above timing is rather harsh and not getting much for MPG's.

I'm in the same boat for the time being the only thing is I've got more miles on my injectors. My misfire is only at fully warmed up state typically noticeable after running hard on the highway. My first set of RV275's failed basically when the pop pressure fell out to about 240bar. Now I think this set of injectors are head the same direction being I've cleaned them up and the whole bit but still got a random warm idle miss. Now mine I can explain to wear... As for you is a quality control problem most likely.

Go out on google play you'll see the OBD apps available you can use any app you want for OBDlink if you wish but the other problem is you most likely going to have to pay for other apps. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Palmer Performance Engineering&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Ian Hawkins&hl=en

That was easy. DPDT switch. I found the breaker in my panel for the outlets in the RV. So both hot and neutral go to the center pins. Then on one side is the hot neutral from the inverter and then the other side is hot neutral for the city. So this transfer switch actually breaks and connects both hot and neutral to the outlet. I use a center OFF style switch so there was a moment of power break or you could shut both supplies off. SOURCE1- Hot Neutral OUTLET --- Hot Neutral SOURCE2 - Hot Neutral

Kind of like saying don't need to add oil because it's above the ADD mark. I would still top off and do a equalize charge afterwards. This is a controlled over charged state. For 12V batteries it would be raising to 15.5 voltage. So like most battery chargers with high amperage setting typically go higher in voltage. So monitor your charging voltage and basically run the amps down low. Like my 24V battery bank goes to 31.5 volts for about 2 hours. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge

If you chasing the grid heater take a IR temp gun and measure the temp of the grid heater. This will require removing the air horn to get a beam on the grid itself.

Go over to LarryBs web site he's got full starter rebuild kits. Bearings, brushes, and contacts.

Might be time to pop test the injectors. Might be getting a bit pissy.

That looks like my shop right now. Needs a serious clean up.

How old are the injectors?

I went through 2 sets off contacts and finally wore the brushes out after 15 years and nearly 275k miles. My new NAPA starter spun my truck over super easy to prime a dry fuel system without cracking any lines. I just did a injector cleaning and reinstalled.

Ok back when I quoted the 19 to 21 degree stock timing. I figured it out and can repeat it many times now. IAT 50 to 60F, then set you cruise at 45, 55, 65 MPH now sample the stock timing by flipping to level 0 while cruising on flat ground low engine load. This is part of that timing increase when the IAT falls below 80F.

Just remember gang don't get all wrapped up with brand names. There are only 3 companies that produce batteries. That being said more than likely there are several brands that are just relabelled by that same manufacturer. Just remember the stock batteries are 750 CCA. Anything above is a bonus. But... It won't do a lick of good if the cables or the starter are up to the task. You can have 2,000 CCA worth of batteries and bad cables, terminals, and weak starter and still have troubles starting.

Another way is to pull the small plug and trip the ABS light. Once that occurs the ABS module is disabled till the key is cycled then it starts over error checking and seeing if its a passing grade or not.