Mopar1973Man

I wouldn't suggest plugging the return line. Take a risk of blowing the front seal out without a return path. Heat is one factor but I'm still waiting to see summer heat. So far I've not seen anything temperature wise that would even be stress full to electronics yet.

I've got good faith in Industrial Injection... Now Thoroughbred Diesel I'm not very impressed they had a bit more warranty issue and product issues with their lower prices.

Like I'll be due to do this project very soon. I'm still running leak free be eventually Murphy's Law will get me... Suggestion pull the valve cover it will give your hand a wee bit more room to get in there.

Personally I would only buy pumps from Certified Bosch rebuilders. Now you have to remember there are plenty of vendors that sell Certified pumps. Like I know DAP and Vulcan Performance both sell certified pumps.

Return line is going to self drain every single time the engine turns off. Return line in the fuel basket is not suppose to be submerged in fuel. It normal for the return line to drain and have air in the line. What is not normal is the supply line draining out and get air in the line.

There is a o-ring kit for the tee on the return line and also there is 2 banjo bolt washers on the banjo at the back of the head. I never crack any line for priming. Like my last swap of injectors I just install tighten all my lines and fired it up. Never bled a single line at all. Yes it still runs like trash after it starts but a few good hard revs of the throttle and its idling smooth.

I'm not racing quarter mile. I want the pull power for 25 to 45 MPH so you regard the timing to move your torque curve down. This tune sure will eat tires.

No... You want cool engine when washing. Leave it off.

Now put this in the spray bottle... http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759 This stuff is super strong and takes little time at full strength to clean a pretty ugly engine. It will shine up your aluminum wheels too. For my stuff I normally mix it down 50/50 with water. Just don't leave it on aluminum long it will start to foam up and if you do it will turn it black. It's truely a acid based cleaner.

DAP is just a vendor of Industrial Injection or Midwest Injection. Both II and MI both have Bosch 815 test stand.

Done... You now have one...

How about using level 1 could that be played the same way? Nevermind I'll build a full stocker tune just for the article purpose. This way newbies jumping in have some sort of base tune for pure stock injectors.

Ok... Now that I've been on stock injectors for about 3 days now. I can for sure tell everyone that @Me78569 suggested 19-20* timing is about right for stock injectors and nearly the same as stock timing. So what you are looking for 19-20* at the 55-65 MPH range. I will admit that stock injectors are not good at all for MPG numbers. I'm about 2-3 MPG (calibrated) lower now than my old +60 HP Vulcan Injectors. Power is lower of course and it's smoke free tune for either my performance or my economy. As for the misfire issue it's completely gone on the stock injectors I've covered over 500 miles now without a single issue of missed beat. @Me78569 is asking me to build a fat tune and find out how hard I can push stock injector till they get smoky. So later on today I'll build a tune to see how far stock injectors will go.

So when you say they are stake the seal in you merely just using a chisel and deforming the outter lip of the seal hole on the injection pump body.

@dripley Time for a upgrade to PacBrake. I know if mine gives up that's going to be my replacement.

Pull the sensor connector pack the plug with di-electric grease and cycle it in the socket 3 times. The problem will go away. I had the same problem this winter in -20*F weather showing my transmission being over 200*F. Not likely. This is all caused by salt water off the highway.

True both are just vendors.... BUT! Both sell injection pumps from Industrial Injection then DAP also sells Midwest Injection. Both companies have Bosch 815 test stands and are certified Bosch rebuilders.

Vulcan performance or DAP. Those are the two I would call for VP44 pump. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/151-vulcan-performance/ https://mopar1973man.com/forum/149-diesel-auto-power/

Interesting solution... Is it a solid solution though?

Ask @TFaoro he did the conversion.

Yup... I'm the same way. Touch of the service brake to correct but rare to do that.

I say hitch up a trailer it will level out on its own. Make it work hard.

Marginal.... I've been getting .025 to .035 for alternators.

I would get the new blocks and the just go to machine shop and have 4 U-bolts made to fit using the old ones for patterns.

This is why I have problems with guys changing apps sensors for idling issues it's not apps issue typically. ECM is in full control at idle. Then the other is changing and/or cleaning the MAP and IAT sensors for idle problems neither really have control of idle either. ECT controls idle speed.