Mopar1973Man

There is a bug for 4.2.2 and 4.2.3 firmware right now being resolved. Then I'm working on getting the auto connect feature added along with adjusting for MPH for oversize tire trucks.

Rebuilding isn't too hard. The worst part is finding a rebuild kit that has quality diodes. The only thing that might be a bit tough is pressing the bearing on the shaft.

No. RV275 are the stock injectors used for the Cummins ISB for RV application. No. Still the RV series Cummins came with HX35 turbos. I'm still running 3" exhaust yet. My is 15 years old now and 300k miles just about and still not leaking. So if its not leaking now don't bother replacing it. They are rather expensive. That's fine to replace the o-rings most likely need to after all the years. Make sure to clean the crossover tube holes out with brake cleaner and blow them out with compressed air. So far I've tried RV275, +50HP and now jumping up to +75HP SAC injectors. I would say RV275 is safe for stock fuel. I would consider upgrading if you looking at +50HP or larger. Most likely cost more that just buying built injectors already. Nothing really to rebuilding. Just buying nozzles and pop testing. When you price that all out typically it's higher than just buying already made injectors. True... If the pintle and nozzle are worn out and pissy then cleaning isn't going to change that fact at all. You are going to have to replace the nozzles and pintles as a set and then pop test. Again this will most likely cost more. Just checking prices it's cheaper to do +50HP injector than RV275's. My +75HP are just about the same price as a RV275 injector... RV275 +40HP - $345 https://dieselautopower.com/bosch-new-injector-rv275-marine-300-40hp-0432193635/ +50 HP VCO's - $325 https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-50hp-performance-injectors-7x0-008-vco-vp7x8vco/ +75HP SAC's - $350 https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-75hp-performance-injectors-7x0-0085-sac-vp7x85sac75/

You need to replace all the main battery cables. I won't mess around with cleaning you've already proved the cables are weak at best.

I'm working with ScanTool.Net to resolve some app issues and add a few bonus things too.

A/C pulley has no movement. No visible wobble either. The new belt is 1mm thinner than my previous CarQuest or NAPA belts. The A/C compressor is fairly low miles. That's what I think I'll end up doing. I'm going to run it and see if it clear up in the next Boise trip.

I tried that yesterday and it lasted about 5-10 minutes then it would be loud enough to make you want to roll up the windows. I cleaned the grooves of the pulley, then spray solvent on them and power washed them. Just to be sure there is no other oils, belt dressing, etc. that might be causing the issue. I even sprayed the belt down and power washed the grooved side of the belt to get any debris out of the grooves of the belt. I did find like metal plating or paint in the grooves. It now clean.

I would use some dielectric grease in the plug and cycle them 3 times. That's it. This isn't exactly but it should give you so info...

I've got a weird one that just started up. First off I've got a brand new fan belt. I've check all pulleys and bearings. No loose bearing and all pulleys spin freely and grooves are clean. The noise is coming from only the A/C pulley. Turning on the A/C has no impact in the noise level. Now in all my messing around, I managed to get the belt to ride on top of the high points of the grooves for the A/C pulley and the noise was gone. So I took the time released the belt and made sure it was back down in the grooves again. Now the squeak returns. I've tried some of my older belts I kept for spares with no change. I've power washed all the pulleys with degreaser and solvent. No change. I've inspected the grooves for debris and clean all the pulleys. At least now with all the cleaning it reduced the volume of it a bit. Any ideas?

0.01 to 0.03 is normal 0.05 is marginal 0.1 is a fail Because your alternator is producing too much AC noise. Take the alternator off and have it tested. Idle voltage doesn't matter. What matter that the ECM sees the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) grounded for idle. Idle voltage won't matter as long as the IVS switch for idle is selected. Then its strictly up to the ECM to control idle. Too many clean the wrong grounds... Too many clean the wrong grounds... If you want to test the APPS for that problem just unplug it. ECM will use only idle software.

As long as the rail pressures are above idle pressure then they typically don't miss. So that why the towing trip they worked fine but at idle the randomly skip.

If you got one weak or damaged battery they should be replaced as a pair.

http://www.obdlink.com/ https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/

Yes Sir... Just a $50 bearing kit nothing more.

Injectors... My 60s failed the same way.

I asked about that and it was something about pop tester problems.

You won't be sorry you have him do you transmission work. I'm still enjoying my 46RE that he built. Still shifts strong and pulls strong.

Trust me... I'm drooling... I've called DAP again today to find out what is going on.

Typically it's injectors getting tired and becoming pissy. I would suggest pop testing to verify. I've had two sets fail the same way.

For what I'm using my truck for it's working excellent. I'm able to to drop is near zero boost in the city. Highway it just below 5 PSI at 65. Slight lag getting lot up but still good power. Works good for light to light traffic Very light haze getting through the years using my Performance tune.

Geez... I kept all mine. Very rare for me to even mess with the starter.

I'm very happy with this turbo. Much lower EGTs and cruising boost pressure. Looks to be giving me a small gain in MPGs unknown till next fill. Not bad for lag.

Actually stock is 6mm ID which is actually smaller than 1/4".

Sounds like its time to pull the transfer case out. I'm not sure if that can be welded or not. Either way you going to have to deal with it.