Mopar1973Man

Here you go... Failed pressure plate.

Might do a voltage drop test of main cable wiring. I've got a feeling you've might have a rotten battery cable that you disturbed and created this issue.

I've got the rockets at 100% and attempting to catch up with you. At this rate I might give up on the 500k milestone and just start thinking of the BIG 1 MILLION...

I'm going to ask the owner to bring the parts back so I can get pictures of it.

I would personally stay with LT tires. P tires are to risky with possible towing and cargo weights.

Hmmm... Maybe not an SB or Valair clutch.

Ok... So it better look like Dorkweeds avatar then...

No fair...

Personally, I'd trade the highway miles for dirt road travel. More fun and more relaxing being rarely any traffic in the back country.

Can't speak for the previous owner but the current owner said the first ceramic clutch wore flywheel out in like 40k miles. We are not sure of the mileage on this clutch. It's an aftermarket clutch either South Bend Clutch or Valair. It's a 13 inch flywheel with the heavy duty pilot bearing.

I just got a 1999 Dodge Cummins in the shop with a clutch issue. I got it pulled out today and this truck has a single disc ceramic clutch. The clutch has completely eaten a deep groove approximately 1/16" to nearly a 1/8" in the pressure plate and about 0.010 groove in the flywheel. Surprising there was zero hotspots in either face. The friction plate was still in good shape but it completely ruined the pressure plate and flywheel will need to be turned. This truck is stock for the most part other than Edge Juice tuner. So for those of you considering ceramic clutch I wouldn't advise it. As this happens to be the second ceramic clutch that the previous owner installed and neither of them last very long well the friction disc did but even the previous ate the flywheel.

Easier yet to just leave the exhaust brake turned on...

I was so hoping to meet the infamous @Me78569...

All valid methods of drilling the manifold. I've tried them all and they all work just fine. Very good point. I've got a drill bit zipped tied to the tap and it stays as a set. Good sharp drill bit will cut much better giving a good clean hole for the tap to work in.

Every 7-8k miles... Last one I kind of stretched to 10k. Opps...

Odometer as of June 12, 2017... Roughly speaking... 370 miles per day 1,110 miles per week 4,440 miles per month 26,640 miles for the last 6 months of travel. The things you'll do for your family...

Right in the 4,5,6 port.

That is so true... With the Quadzilla you can tune out majority of the smoke and improve the performance of the injector.

I've seen 500F degree difference between pre and post turbo EGT measurements one heavy loads. It would be best to just move the probe ASAP.

I say better cooling... Skip the bigger pan. Larger pan just means that there is just more fluid to heat up. Where a bigger cooler just means cooler temperatures.

I've done a few like that and managed to get near perfect results as well.

May I ask what was the cause of the pushrod failure?

Like I'm using OBDLink LX for fuel data its not exact but darn close for the most part but gives me feedback from the ECM of the fueling map and how its performing with said fueling and timing. It's at least some data an idea of how things are working.

Thank you... I've got lots of secrets in my head. I try to post all my finding and tricks in the articls but sometimes I'm just busy and slow to update my notes... August we are having a get togeether in Catfish junction, OR for the eclipse good time to meet us.

Just unhook the two wires at the battery. Nothing to tape up not short out if you unhook the power. Leave the solenoid leads alone so not to trip codes.