
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Verifying HX35/40 turbo size
300 bar vs. 310bar (stock) Already done in my tuning. I'm max boost is now like 37-40 PSI I cut my maximum fueling off by about 10% and made it long shallow curve for towards the max fueling. Again majority of my travels are mellow cruise control 2-5 PSI. Very Very rare do I run hard on it. I need reliability more that racing performance. Again... I've got to travel 4,000 some odd miles every month. Not about racing... Just about getting there on the cheap fuel wise.
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Verifying HX35/40 turbo size
I'm impressed with the minor change in how the turbo runs. Highway cruise boost pressure is down I'm like 2-5 PSI at 65 MPH and now with the +75HP injectors my EGT's have dropped a good 100*F so 65 MPH I'm floating 500-600*F. Max boost I was able to bang out this turbo so far was right around 47 PSI with my old Quadzilla tunning for the stock injectors but it was way hot and smoky.
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Headlight options
Last night was my first test run of the 2 relay and 1 fuse system. Works really well and just as good as the 4 relay and 4 fuse setup most are selling for this setup. Fuse is tapped in at the PDC and right now the relays ate zip tied to the battery (BETA testing).
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Fan belts squeaks
I guess one day soon I'll just have to buy a good Gates Belt and get on with it. Right now I just rubbed a bit of liquid dish soap on the belt to shut it up for the temporary time. Rather annoying...
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Exhaust Brakes and head gaskets
Nearly 270k miles on my head gasket with the use of an exhaust brake. They will apply around 60 PSI of drive pressure on the exhaust brake. There is no fuel applied during the exhaust braking so the pressure are much lower than say high timing and big injectors with high boost.
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7x0.0085 +75HP SAC Injectors from DAP
Yes optimally studs would be good idea. That is why my current tune is limited on the max fuel to bring max boost back to 40 PSI. Then again I'm focused more on MPG than HP/TQ so majority of my run time is 2 to 10 PSI of boost. Hardly doubt head gasket will fail there. Nice to have the passing power back.
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7x0.0085 +75HP SAC Injectors from DAP
Yea, yea, yea, when my pockets become deep I'll buy another truck to build. Reality says I've got to keep MoparMom well and travel 4,000 a month, I'm currently not working and working with a limited budget. You say denial... LOL!
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7x0.0085 +75HP SAC Injectors from DAP
I love how people think I've got the bug. Being with the Quadzilla with my old 50s was easy to the control. So jumping up another 25 is not what I call going nuts. I've got to work with the idea of MPG, my exhaust brake, and stock head gasket.
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7x0.0085 +75HP SAC Injectors from DAP
First long run. I like the power increase but still got to tune out a bit more of the smoke. It's not bad but I'm looking for bit cleaner run. City from light to light trying to launch its a bit lopey launching from 2nd. 1st gear is fine. Still got a bit of mopey idle randomly which doesn't bother me. I know I've got to calibrate my OBD Link on the next fill. So far I'm likimy the Injectors, smooth running accepting the 19 to 20 timing good.
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LED Headlights
Then I come along and just finished my sport headlight relay mod. I need to get photos at night time of the lighting. Not as good as @hex0rz or @jlbayes but at least there is more light than stock headlights with fogged up lens. Yes, I did figure out a way to reduce the previous 4 relay and 4 fuse kits to 2 relays and 1 fuse kit. This will make them much cheaper to produce. High beams with my fog lights. Of course, the fog light overwhelm the headlights.
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2016 Silverado
You could trade in the Chevy for a 4th Gen Cummins...
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Engine Oil leak
Tappet cover most likely. I just bought a new gasket for my truck and will be doing it very soon. It will leak fairly well from the tappet cover. Like mine is ar the rear of the engine. Also double check the gear case like mine is weeping between the block and the gear case so you'll have to remove the cover and tighten the bolts. If that doesn't work then you have pull the gear case which requires pulling the cam out. My last leak is on the wrong side which is my turbo return hose is weeping.
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Exhaust manifold
Hmmm... 15 years old and closing the gap on 300k miles and my stock OEM exhaust manifold still looks likes it new out of the box. Cracks? what cracks?
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Truck Running Fine!
I got lucky and found a set of steel wheels at a friend's place in Parma, ID They are 16x7 steel wheel and 8 lug wheels. They are a match for the same wheels I've got on the 1996 just in 8 lug not 5 lug.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Not always. Just depends on which device is weakest to the frequency and voltage levels. Typically the VP44 is the weakest between the ECM and VP44. Being you are a manual transmission you may or may not get surging cruise control issues.
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trreed's upgrade thread
Have you tested for AC noise from the alternator? Most likely the PSG on the VP44 has taken on damage from AC noise. I think the PCM part is a typo. I think it's suppose to be PSG.
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Quadzilla Adrenaline Economy and MPG
Timing wise you have to base it off of either MPG logs which is kind of difficult being it never going to be the exact repeatable trip day in and out. The other way I'm trying to figure out is by ear. Just being able to listen to the timing rattle. What @Me78569 is suggesting is ~19* at 55 MPH and ~20* at 65 MPH is a good starting point. Your injection pump and injector health is key to making this work too. Like myself with injectors getting flaky was creating a timing issue in it own way. This is why I was battle the start of this thread attempting to gain a foothold of this. Now with fresh injectors, I should be able to get back in the high numbers now. The end of winterized fuel is coming to a close is going to help a bunch then with the warming weather and warmer air I should start gaining back my high placement again. Time will tell.
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Pre or Post for EGT probe
I normally grab the probe with channel locks and lightly twist it back and forth keep pulling upwards.
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Factory alarm question
...or live where those signal don't exist. Like myself I could try calling my cell phone and will never ring. No cell tower near by.
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Engine idling to high
Should idle smoothly. The VP44 electronics have enough there to make it idle normally or high idle without a ECM even hooked up. If its idling rough then its either injectors or something up with the VP44. I do know that bad injectors can produce high idle and random misfire issues. My previous +50HP injectors were rather high idling and randomly misfire with a rough idle when it did misfire.
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Great Songs
Heck, @Me78569 was born in a freezer. What did you expect from him?
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Bright headlights quit
I'm not fond of that relay setup that most are selling. I'm going to get back to the relay mod I'm going to build for my truck tomorrow. I'm going to do it with 2 relays and one fuse possibly. Still doing my beta test work on my design.
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Engine idling to high
Something is wonky... It's still idling high so I'm going to wonder if possibly the VP44 key is sheared? I'm wondering if the timing of the shaft is bumped advanced and kicking the idle up from that. Being the ECM and all sensors is out of the picture with the hot wire setup. I'm also wondering about the 6 new injectors it could be part of the issue. What kind of injectors did you get? Were they pop tested before shipping to you?
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Hey everyone
Welcome to the Family here... That's a fine looking truck there. Might help to add your truck information to your signature and fill out your profile information.
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Ground posts and preservatives
Lot of the old timers up here take their post and soak the ends in waste engine oil. Like most ranchers will cut down small diameter green trees, peel the bark off, then soak the post ends in waste engine oil for several weeks. Once the wood is darked well then they will use the post.