Mopar1973Man

With the exponential growth, you can do custom curves. Say like @Me78569 his tow tune you could do 3.4% growth rate to hit max at 10 PSI at 139%. Then taper off the rest of the curve say a mild 1.2% from that point out. This is why I didn't make the calculator part of the spreadsheet because I wanted to play or chop up the curve more you can. So that's why the calculator is separated.

UPDATE! ATTENTION EVERYONE! With the permission of Quadzilla Power we are now hosting mirror copies of flashes and apps for mobile devices. Everytime there is an update to the files here there will be a new thread started in Quadzilla forum and you can get support for the files there now. The download area. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/9-quadzilla-tunes/ Support forum area. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ So when @Me78569 or @Quadzilla Power makes another update there should be a new forum thread. So everyone will know what changed and now easy to find the files on the site. You'll notice there is a local copy here on Mopar1973Man.Com then there is a mirror copy QuadzillaTech.Com.

Actually I just changed my performance tune again and going for a test drive... Be back... I'm Back... Changed my Performance tune from an exponential growth of 1.5% to 1.7% which is just a bit steeper curve now. I'll update my thread.

The "Fun" tune you might find does a bit better on MPG really but you got to have a light foot.

I'm just using LibreOffice Calc to graph my data in Linux. Windows users typically do the same thing using Microsoft Excel. I've been logging every bit of fuel since 20k miles. I've got a spiral notebook in my center console that I write down odometer mileage, total cost, gallons, fill yes/no, price per gallon, and date.

Remember OBD Link is just like the Quadzilla showing ZERO TPS signal during cruise control so TPS values isn't considered at all. GPH is calculated from MAP sensor readings.

Being all the miles I've got to do I'll get my few tanks in pretty quick. At least right now I'm getting close to accurate feedback for the OBDLink now. I'm using the same fuel station every time.

Crap!! Well that went out the window. I did a fill and verified the offset and there is about 18% error. So the hand math is 19.90 MPG and the ONE Mini showed 23.9x MPG. So I've recalibrated again. I was really hoping for good number. They are improving but slower than expected. Almost 20 isn't ugly. OBD link is up to 106% volumetric efficiency.

Well gang... I've touched 24.0 MPG on this last run back to Boise, Idaho. I do need to back down my timing more again the idle misfire is back again. I'm going to change up my timing curve on this performance tune some to see if I can resolve the misfire at idle.

Returned back to Boise today made a cool even 24.0 MPGs...

Again this follows my IAT optimal range. 100-140*F is the optimal temperature for the 24V engine.

What I'm finding out is the steeper the fuel curve is the better the MPG will become. Timing isn't so much of the picture but the CANBus fuel curve is more important.

Timing is more retard. Fuel map starts at 105% and exponential growth of 1.5% vs the economy tune that starts at 100% and exponential growth of 1.2%. So that being said I might try bumping the fuel map harder and heading for 1.6% which will make it more smokey. My 1.2% curve is smoke free. My 1.5% I can see like haze to small clouds.

As far as I've seen between my two trucks once you've saved the first profile for each one it automatically picks up the profile the truck and uses it. I'll double check again and see if there is a bug or something changed. I'll be a few days before I can test this.

Today I made a mistake and left my performance tune up and forgot to change before going home. It netted me 23.1 MPG when I hit the door tonight. No bad. Here is my data log from the OBDLink. This is my last log in the pile, 62.08 miles of logged MPG. OBDLink data logs and saves all the files to the tablet and I can pick and choose the files I want to look at. Also talked to Spencer about that and he'll see what he can do about adding that into the logging feature.

Yes. Helps A bunch with the cold mornings. Funny I made the mistake of leavimy my Performance tune loaded and it's doing better MPGs than my economy tune.

No need. The app will reconize the vehicle and rehook to its own profile. I've got my 96 and 02 Dodge.

Live day of the sensors would be more helpful of want data the ECM is seeing. @dripley closed loop is when the ECM considers its warmed up and ready.

Ok gang... Performance side what would be the best settings with my current setup? I want to play a little now the snow and ice are gone for most part.

Can you provide pictures of this?

I've been using Dextron ATF in my transfer case for years now. No issues to date.

Might be true I was trying to remember the number the last time I rebuilt a unit. My last one was on Ford truck and I've might be quote that number.

Funny this thread is going... I got another member that just called me just now and had to replace the pressure hose from the hydro booster to the steering box. He wasn't sure if the line was tight so he sends me a picture of the line. The first thing I pick up on is the amount of dirt in the photo. I made the comment to him that he should of power washed the unit off before starting. Now he calls me back tell me the hydro booster and brakes are fine but the steering is extremely stiff. What has happened he's got dirt in the power value of the steering box and the fluid can do its job to assist in steering so it stiff. So induction of dirt and grit in the system is a problem being there is no filter. As for slop in the boxes just because a chain store sells a box I've been know to re-adjust the box after installing. I've seen some sloppy right out of the box and was just poorly adjusted. As for the guts there is very little to actual wear out or go wrong there is only 2 bearing in the entire box one on the input shaft but a flat style bearing and a shaft bearing on the output. Typically the slop is the over center adjustment but also seen a few that had excessive bearing preload slop. As for the parts... You can see the output bearing in the pile on the left. The input bearing is hanging on the worm gear. The only thing no shown is the 22 BB's that go in around the worm gear and power piston. The loop cover in the piston is where the BB's go. Here is the power valve on the input assembly opened up...

What's funny is that the box can be adjusted to remove all the play by so few people even know this trick. I will most likely rebuild my OEM steering box if and when it does finally give up or get sloppy. 15 years old and still leak free and tight like the day I bought the truck.

I might lose it again tonight. Water starting to flow in the canyon behind the main house again...