Mopar1973Man

I would personally stay with LT tires. P tires are to risky with possible towing and cargo weights.

Hmmm... Maybe not an SB or Valair clutch.

Ok... So it better look like Dorkweeds avatar then...

No fair...

Personally, I'd trade the highway miles for dirt road travel. More fun and more relaxing being rarely any traffic in the back country.

Can't speak for the previous owner but the current owner said the first ceramic clutch wore flywheel out in like 40k miles. We are not sure of the mileage on this clutch. It's an aftermarket clutch either South Bend Clutch or Valair. It's a 13 inch flywheel with the heavy duty pilot bearing.

I just got a 1999 Dodge Cummins in the shop with a clutch issue. I got it pulled out today and this truck has a single disc ceramic clutch. The clutch has completely eaten a deep groove approximately 1/16" to nearly a 1/8" in the pressure plate and about 0.010 groove in the flywheel. Surprising there was zero hotspots in either face. The friction plate was still in good shape but it completely ruined the pressure plate and flywheel will need to be turned. This truck is stock for the most part other than Edge Juice tuner. So for those of you considering ceramic clutch I wouldn't advise it. As this happens to be the second ceramic clutch that the previous owner installed and neither of them last very long well the friction disc did but even the previous ate the flywheel.

Easier yet to just leave the exhaust brake turned on...

I was so hoping to meet the infamous @Me78569...

All valid methods of drilling the manifold. I've tried them all and they all work just fine. Very good point. I've got a drill bit zipped tied to the tap and it stays as a set. Good sharp drill bit will cut much better giving a good clean hole for the tap to work in.

Every 7-8k miles... Last one I kind of stretched to 10k. Opps...

Odometer as of June 12, 2017... Roughly speaking... 370 miles per day 1,110 miles per week 4,440 miles per month 26,640 miles for the last 6 months of travel. The things you'll do for your family...

Right in the 4,5,6 port.

That is so true... With the Quadzilla you can tune out majority of the smoke and improve the performance of the injector.

I've seen 500F degree difference between pre and post turbo EGT measurements one heavy loads. It would be best to just move the probe ASAP.

I say better cooling... Skip the bigger pan. Larger pan just means that there is just more fluid to heat up. Where a bigger cooler just means cooler temperatures.

I've done a few like that and managed to get near perfect results as well.

May I ask what was the cause of the pushrod failure?

Like I'm using OBDLink LX for fuel data its not exact but darn close for the most part but gives me feedback from the ECM of the fueling map and how its performing with said fueling and timing. It's at least some data an idea of how things are working.

Thank you... I've got lots of secrets in my head. I try to post all my finding and tricks in the articls but sometimes I'm just busy and slow to update my notes... August we are having a get togeether in Catfish junction, OR for the eclipse good time to meet us.

Just unhook the two wires at the battery. Nothing to tape up not short out if you unhook the power. Leave the solenoid leads alone so not to trip codes.

That is the most important... The rest are secondary grounds like lighting and horn. Lot of sanding and scrubbing for nothing to gain nothing. Solution is easy reduce the loads on the alternator and never leave heavy loads on the alternator while idling. What happens in the diodes get hot and don't have the means to stay cool so they fail. Like so many people start there truck and leave them idle with the grid heaters cycling. This is really hard on the alternator attempting to hold a full charge at idle with 195A load for an alternator that only produces 140A at 2,000 RPM's. This is why every year I unhook my grid heaters in April and hook them back up in October when weather is cold and you require the grid heater to start again.

Like both my doors on the truck starting to squeak. The cam roller for the upper hinge was starting to rust a bit and stick. So I spray a good heavy dose of PB Blaster silicone spray on the hinges, cam rollers, and the door seals. Should make the truck quiet again for a short time. Typically I'm pretty good about keeping the oil can going on the hinges but I've been so busy last few weeks, not even the squeaky wheel is getting the grease... Just drive till the wheels fall off...

There is only one ground to worry about. The passenger side battery terminal. This is the master ground for all the computers. None of the computers get ground from the chassis or block. Are there any noise filters, extra grounds, or wiring modification done? If so remove them all and retest I'll bet your AC noise test will be higher yet and most likely failing. If the WTS light does not come on then the ECM is not booted. There will be nothing data or function from the ECM. No codes, no lift pump and starting. This is a clear sign the ECM is dead at that time. Kind of like attempting to read a Data CD in the CD-ROM without booting the computer first. There is no error codes and CD-ROM doesn't read anything.

It's true the use of direct gear in your case is producing higher MPG's. I see the same thing driving in 4th gear (direct) where the CANBus fuel is lower and EGT's are lower and my it shows as about 2-5 MPG gain. Then shifting to 5th (Overdrive) then the EGT's rise, CANBus Fuel goes up and MPG's are reduced.