Mopar1973Man

Very common where people upgrade turbo way before needed. Like one gent I talked to upgraded turbos with +50HP injectors. He's wondering why it won't build boost like the old stock HX35W turbo did. Too big of a turbo will create much more lag and more issue with smoke because you'll have to build more drive pressure to build boost. Like myself I could upgrade but it leaves me hanging with even bigger problem of replacing the exhaust brake.

Here for the second posting...

Yes, these are illegal...

Ok... I thought it was rather weird to see the heavy spike.

I finally updated the flash on the Quadzilla. I figure tonight while I was adjusting headlight again I would play with the defuel features. The boost defuel... I set it for 30 PSI which I know I can hammer past without a doubt. Well, what happens is I can build boost so fast that it still tips off my gauge light at 38 PSI but quickly reels back the power as it falls on its face attempting to hold 30 but keeps pushing past it slightly. With the +2 lead on the Quadzilla it should be -2 on my gauge it's not though... I wanted to test the logging feature tonight too but forget to hit EXPORT before shutting down. Try again another day...

Finally someone found the DOT laws on gravity fed tanks. Thanks to Pcarlson15 over on CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/2210985-cutting-up-bed.html#post25696489 GRAVITY FEEDING IS ILLEGAL Here are some laws (regulations) which pertain to gravity feed fuel tanks, and why they are illegal. 1. 49 CFR CH.III (393.65) 6d; Gravity or syphon feeding is prohibited. 2. 49 CFR CH.III (393.67) 7.4.5.; Fuel withdrawal fittings. The fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full. In other words, the fuel must come from the top of the tank and not from a fitting on the bottom. For safety reasons. When in doubt, look at your factory tank. There also the venting laws: FMVSS 301 1. Safety Venting System. A liquid fuel tank with a capacity of more than 25 gallons of fuel must have a venting system which, in the event of fire, will prevent internal pressure from rupturing the tank's body, or seams. 2. Each fuel tank must be equipped with a non-spill air vent (such as a ball check valve). The air vent may be combined with the fill-pipe cap or safetry vent. ATTA tanks have a minimum of two sources of vents. Atta sending units come with an anti-siphon ball check valve vent and we use an OEM style pressure relief cap. 3. Fuel tanks must be clearly and permanently marked with the manufacture's name, manufacture date, gallon size, and must state "Meets all FMCSA requirements for non-side mounted fuel tank", and "not to exceed 95% of capacity." And the fuel fitting and connection laws: VESC-22 1. The fuel connections from the auxiliary fuel tank to the primary system, including a selection control valve, shall not render inoperative any of the functions of the primary system. The auxiliary fuel tank lines, fittings, valves, and connections shall, for purposes of fuel flow, be of a size at least equal to the primary system. Basically, No connections or selector valve can prevent the factory fuel system from working in normal functions from any part failure. if the selector valve fails, it cannot prevent the factory system from working. No portion of the selector valve or fittings shall be of smaller size than the factory fuel lines that might restrict fuel flow.

Currently running 6* cruise timing which is 20* total at 55 MPH and just about 21* at 65 MPH. Trying a @Me78569 idea...

That's a bug that I know of @Me78569 says there is a bug about what data is displayed while in cruise control state for fly by wire systems. So to see actual timing you have to lightly place your foot on the throttle and put 1-2% worth of throttle sense on the Quad and it will now show the proper timing.

Might need a high quality crows foot, pipe wrench style to get that #5 loose. Use plenty of PB blaster on it. Might have to shock the fitting to get it moving so look for that crows foot for that purpose and might try rattling a impact against it a little bit.

From everything I know of OEM fans are discontinued and no longer manufactured. Might try doing some searches on the EBay for used one. I know the electric fan don't have the CFM's to keep up with towing.

Ummm... The injectors are swimming in engine oil... Then the other side of the o-ring has diesel fuel. My crazy idea of getting them out...

Most likely would never get the injector in or lined up being it would stand up so much taller and the crossover tube won't line up right and spray pattern would be most likely wrong. I know there is a wide range of copper shims but I really doubt you could get 2 stacked and get a injector lined up in the hole. Anyways the copper shim crush to the injector not the head. So the injector will still lift out. The o-ring is the only thing that would hang it up. So if the o-ring burnt to the head is will stick and hang up. All I've ever done is screw that short intake bolt in the head and then using that flat blade screwdriver and pry them out. I've even use small nail bars before.

It could be the o-ring is burnt to the head and stuck. Again just need to pry harder. That injector is harden steel you not going to hurt the injector.

That's on a 12V where the injector is exposed to the elements. Different story when the 24V has the injector buried in engine oil and diesel fuel.

The only thing that is holding that injector in is the o-ring on top. The only thing I can say is more leverage it will pry out. The nozzle and copper shim will not hold the injector in. The cross over tube might if it not pull out enough.

Like I'm already looking at converting my current fog light setup over to the PDC so I can ditch the fuse hanging off the PDC positive post and ditching a switch on my overhead console. I'll need to change head light switches then add a terminal for the hi beam fog lamps. This way everything is back to stock controls as closely as possible and way less hanging hack wiring in my engine area. Left most switch is my current fog light switch. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/modification/212-overhead-console-switches/ So looking at the fog lamp relay you'll see the normally open contact is void. So if I add the terminal that would power my pair of fog light on the hi beam setting. Then ditch the fuse on the PDC positive and install it at Fuse O in the PDC. So then the headlight switch would have control of the fog lights once again like it was stock but with the add function of hi/lo selectable for lights. So now looking at the Quad High Beam relay you'll see the normally close contact is void of a lead so if I add the lo beam back to the Quad Bulbs now you'll have quad hi and lo beam on both bulbs using only 1 fuse and 1 relay compared to 4 relays and 4 fuses like all the other kits do. The only reason the voltage is lower on the stock headlight is you have to understand Dodge's weird idea of wire gauge size and running the headlight ground all the way into the cab to the multi-function switch then to the headlight switch to terminate the ground lead at the driver side kick panel. So majority of vehicles I know of have rusted out ground connections at the driver side kick panels and then to make matter worse the headlight switch and multifunction switch contacts age and not a perfect 0 volt drop any longer. Then toss on top the small wire used to power the headlight plus the long run into the cab. So there is some voltage drop this why the kits are created. Again instead of solving the problem people toss another hack on to band-aid the issue. Like on my truck all my ground and wiring connection are in solid condition so my amount of voltage drop is nothing like what other trucks might be.

I always just use a grid heater bolt (smaller or the 2) and screw it in and pry up with a screwdriver against the rocker arms.Yes the crossover tube must be pull out a fair amount at least 1 inch to be safe.

@klcammie Thank you...

Hua? The only thing different is the Quad hi beams is relay controlled. Uses the same multifunction switch and the same headlight switch. Basically wired the same way. As for a module... I don't see where the module you speak of is. No such module exist in either lighting systems. Stock Plain Headlights Then Sport Quad Headlights .

Simple! Edit your first post. At the top, it will give the box for the topic title and you can change the title. You might want to change it to something about lift pumps and relay protection.

Thank you...

Interesting Idea for heavier canopies.

I'd love to... But... I would like to have @klcammie retitle the thread and I'll stick it to the top for the time being. Eventually, it should be converted into an Article for safe keeping.

Yeah... Google Drive. Rather a pain in the butt. Kind of wish it was saved to the phone directly. I've got 64 GB (32 GB built in and 32 GB SD) of storage on my phone which I can access by USB. Since my phone always comes to my desk and is plugged into the PC. Nope... Gotta make sure the WiFi is turn on the phone so the phone can upload to Google so I can re-download the files again. I'm not fond of storing anything in the cloud. Being I run both Android and Linux I've got wonderful synchronizing software than can do a full backup of my phones contents way faster than Google Drive. 7" tablet fits the pocket by the transmission excellent. Once I'm done with programming I'll most likely quit firing up the Quadzilla app and just fire up my MP3 player on the phone for music. Being I can answer phone calls through the stereo I'll keep the location but not a requirement. This why I didn't make anything permanent.