Mopar1973Man

That's what I call roughing it. When you sleep under the stars and no electronics at all. Age also has done the same thing to me. I use to do a lot of sleeping on the ground in a tent. I've even slept in the back of the truck for many years. If you look back in the forum you fine post of my old canopy set up with slide out drawer and bed above.

Do tell... Let's here about the chat share your ideas...

Because some of us don't go to RV parks with full hook up. That's just relocation of your home. Camping is when you don't have any hook ups.

Push a set of +50 injectors in.. Fixed... I know that's not going to happen...

Being I'm on the roads so much I need a way to use the phone, answer phone calls, etc. Being my phone only works when I'm not home I don't have to worry about the pocket thing being I'm in the saddle for at least 8 hours doing my round trip to Boise and home. More or less building my mini office right in the Cummins. I've got several people that call for support and I can help them with issues while I'm traveling.

I'll grab a screenshot today and post idle RPM.

Last time i fired up the panels on the RV I sat and watched TV in Boise valley for most of the afternoon without ever dropping below 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Also charging the cell phone.

Any load will kill off the miss. Heavy brake pedal, turn the steering wheel, etc. Soon as the load is gone the miss returns. So it's not exactly a Quadzilla signal issue. It's results after a good long run. Mine usually occurred after exiting the interstate. Now if I pulled into a fuel station to take a leak or grab a soda. Just shut the engine down for less than 5 minutes and start again the miss is gone. The miss is heat related. Then you can drive city streets and not get it at all.

I've been thinking about it too. The problem is the types of driving you do. City needs a tune to itself (0-45 MPH), then highway (55-65 MPH) gets a tune, then interstate (75-85 MPH) gets a tune. Because if you think about the different conditions and what you got to do timing, fuel maps, etc. All need a bit a pulling one way or another to make the driver happy. Like in the city you want your 1500 timing a bit lower to help spool up and get launched from light to light maybe even throw in fuel load timing on 2-3* just to aid in that. Highway you can crank up more timing building on the 1,600 to 2,000 RPM range. Then when you get to the interstate and you twisting 2,100 to 2,400 RPM constantly with boost riding in the 10-15 PSI range makes for rather challenging tuning.

Idle. Vehicle stopped. Just make a 40 to 50 mile run down the interstate with 20-20.5* timing exit the interstate and come to stop. It will randomly miss. Normal idle speed (850 RPM), coolant (195*), IAT doesn't matter, TPS (ZERO), etc. All you need is the A/C to cycle and the miss will vanish. Drop cruise timing 1-2* and it will not show up.

I'm almost of the opinion that you need a special tune for interstate travel to do it right. Because in the lower speeds of the city the cruise timing hang up to easy being you push the cruise timing pressure so high. Like my typically 55-65 MPH highway stuff I could set the cruise pressure for 8-10 easy. Interstate I need 15-18 PSI to keep the cruise state.

Exactly. I'm not absolutely sure either, but it is weird how I got the random miss and then just turning down the timing made it stop. All I can say is try it and see. The only thing I can think of is the pintle binding up in the nozzle from the heat soak. Never does it cold. Only after long run of the interstate or highway with about 20-20.5* of timing.

The dungeon...

It's all good. I don't have TV at all. So my entertainment is the Internet and everyone on the web site. When I lose my internet man talk about having withdrawals.

Now you know why I posted the meme and then hung out here and watch for people to come posting...

You only suppose to do head studs, push rods, and valve springs right?

I know the feeling. It seems like by the time I get done doing my 3 laps to Boise and back and attempt to catch up on home tasks, web stuff, etc. Doesn't seem like there is much free time. Sunday and Monday are my weekends so I spent today cleaning up the truck and fixing miscellaneous little things. Tomorrow I doing a trade out with a shop in town where I get to use their 2 post lift to change the transmission filter on the 1996 Dodge. (Shh... Hopefully Dynamic isn't reading I might lose my warranty!) Then back to my grind of 3 laps to Boise again.

Where's the pictures? It ain't real without pictures!

Uh... Yeah... It big.

If it wasn't for being brought on to the Beta Team for testing I wouldn't of bothered getting one and just hung on to the old Edge Comp.

Your firing the fuel before TDC like my previous timing was 20.5* BTDC so my injectors are small and atomize very well so with the boost pressure adding heat, cetane levels are high for winter fuel. What I think is happening cylinder temperature are higher because it's burning before it gets over TDC. So if you retard timing the flame front will be pushing more on the piston downward than the piston pushing the flame into the injectors as it still traveling up to TDC. Now I'm more like 17.5 to 18.0* BTDC...

Remember is a moving, flexing, home on wheels. Eventually it will get brittle and start to crack from the constant flexing of the floor.

Back your cruise timing down. Injectors are getting hot on the nozzles from what I can figure out. I bet if you back it down it will go away. Drop one full degree off your cruise timing at least and see what it does if its less the drop one more degree and it should go away. Might also add 1 degree to fuel load timing. See if that helps too.