Mopar1973Man

Rust! Yeah, this winter I've not been able to keep up on washing the truck as much as I wanted to. I knew I had a few paint chips in the tailgate from the old canopy. So I'm doing some fix-up work to keep the R word under control. Need to pick up a can of gloss black paint tomorrow when the hardware store is open. The black of the tailgate liner plastic will blend right in with the extended black paint line. You can see I had it paint once with flat black but that is porous.

I got creative. I figured out a spot for my LG G4 cell phone. This happens to be a multifunction device being it's my MP3 player, cellphone, and my Quadzilla display. I've been laying it on my console most of the time. I got tried of that, dog laying across it, sliding off on the floor, trying to answer the phone, etc. Being the phone is jacked into the stereo I can listen to my MP3's through the stereo and if a call comes I can answer the phone call and its completely hands free (still legal). So I found a piece of scrap aluminum sign and start cutting, bending, notching, etc... This is what I came up with... It sits right in my ashtray. Now a got a nice spot for my cell phone at finger reach and easy to see...

Excellent idea.

Sometimes I find that if you just reboot the windows machine again, leaving the Quad unhooked as soon as it boots back up start the flash update software first then plug in the Quadzilla USB cable. Tends to work better. If you plug in the Quadzilla before you fire up the software you get this stupid mode where the software can't see the hardware. Worse yet when I'm flipped back over to the Linux side and call out "lsusb" in terminal and clear can see the Quadzilla. Somedays I wish they had a Linux app... No drivers and no BS. (Dreamin')

Doesn't exist. If you do the research on solar panels cloudy or shady parts of the day they still take a large hit in performance. I've got one of each and soon as shade hits it's basically done. Charge rate fails fast. Remember I've got 400w of panels powering an entire 2 story house with 820 Amp/hours of 6V batteries (wired as 24V) hooked to 4,000 watt modified sine wave inverter. I've had this setup for about 20 years now. This why you can't have your panels mounted to the roof. This would require you to park the RV in direct sunlight. This is what 400w worth of panels look like. This stands about 10 foot tall to the top of the panels. Basically eight 50w panels.

So in my case when I did it and turned out correct. OBDLink number in the V1 position and hand math in V2 position. So now if the results is a minus make sure to add the sign to your math. So if you had for example 63 on the volumetric setting and the calculator gave -8.4 for a result then you would add 63+(-8.4)=54.6 would be your new volumetric result.

Changes are in bold. ECONOMY TUNE TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 7 RPM Limit: 3500 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 20% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1800 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 100% TPS Pump Minimum: 25% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 10 PSI Boost Scaling: 40 PSI TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Cruise Timing Adv: 2.5* Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit: 15 PSI RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 17 2000 RPM: 19 2500 RPM: 23 3000 RPM: 25 Max: 26 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI:100 1 PSI:101 2 PSI:102 3 PSI:103 4 PSI:105 5 PSI:106 6 PSI:108 7 PSI:109 8 PSI:110 9 PSI:112 10 PSI:113 11 PSI:115 12 PSI:116 13 PSI:118 14 PSI:119 15 PSI:121 16 PSI:122 18 PSI:126 20 PSI:129 22 PSI:132 24 PSI:136 26 PSI:139 28 PSI:143 30 PSI:147 The only thing I can figure out why I've got to back down to your suggested 19-20* total cruise timing to 17-18* (2.5* cruise timing) is because of hole size of the injectors. Since I'm a much smaller nozzle and compared to you @Me78569 my atomization is finer and easily ignites. So over advancing was more or less getting the flame started the tip of injectors making them hot. Then when you come down to an idle state after a long run the pintles started hanging up a bit trying to pop at idle pressures. Now backing dow to the lower timing I've found that the MPG changed for the good (rise), idle miss is gone (injectors are cooler). This again shows more timing is NOT always better for economy. Now that I'm fairly happy with my timing table my next week I'll work on getting back to a good calibration on the OBDLink which I've also found a super simple way to calibrate. Basically, fill the truck make your run hopefully to return the same day to fill again. Now note the MPG of your hand math and the MPG shown by the OBDLink. Now head over to percentage difference calculator and plug in your two numbers. Now ADD this percent number to your current volumetric setting on the OBDlink. If you want a better average effect then like I did with my logs figure an average number for a month of fills and then use that number. This what I was going to use for calibration to hopefully pickup some of the wild idle offset.

Be careful. Like @JAG1 called me today because he's got an injector line that is bleeding fuel some. He was doing the same thing and was smart and stopped tightening the line more and called me. You have to be careful and check the line to socket for debris and be sure the line is fitting good and the taper is sealing good. All it takes is a small grain or sand, rust, corrosion, or metal sliver to keep it from sealing and just cranking down hard it going to crush that debris into mating faces.

Just like 2005 Dodge sitting here in my yard with an engine with barely 112k miles and the injectors failed and ate a few pistons. Common Rail engines are known for their expensive injectors and require changing somewhere in the 100-150k miles range.

Flow thru muffler is going to cut overall volume of the exhaust sound. Resonator is going to just remove drone.

Keep those door hinges lubed up with engine oil. They will last a very long time. Injectors are considered a wear item every 100-200k miles you should be considering replacing them. VE pump if you keep lube in the fuel it will go a long ways before needing replacement again.

Here is my video on it...

Highly suggest you get those injectors tested. CR injectors typically only have a life span of 100-150k miles on average.

Here you go...

Idle. Only missed at idle after a long run. At 2,100 to 2,200 RPM's. But as I hit idle it would start to miss at traffic lights or stop signs.

Ok... I learned a bunch more today. I was bugged about the offset of the hand math and the data logging of the OBDII link. So I started digging and doing some math against the numbers. So what I did was found entries and average out the pair MPG numbers and then calculated the percentage difference of the two numbers. I was seeing roughly 11-13% offset. Ok. Plug in +13% to the OBDLink and ran today. Numbers matched up good when I re-did my calibration. But I still was liking the numbers. Now after having the injector issue (as I posted in the other thread) I back off the timing the 2* and now I can clearly see odometer to fuel gauge a good gain in MPG but the OBDLink is even lower in MPG's. Basically just changing the timing curves on the Quadzilla will impact the calibration of the OBDLink for logging. So I'm back to the drawing board and getting thing back to calibrated status.

Something learned today. Be aware that running too high of timing can get the nozzles on the injectors hot. I've been running a total cruise timing of 20.5 degrees or so. I start noticing the last few days after the interstate run the truck has a weird off-beat miss and typically would go away after the injectors cooled a bit in city driving. Now on my way home, I was still getting it after long highway runs. So I back off the cruise timing 2 degrees and the random miss is gone. Again more timing is not always better. I've noticed now that I backed down the rattle is much quieter and very mellow. (More going to be posted on my thread) I figure I would toss this out on the table so other are aware.

@crf450ish Some make the comment "If it's too loud your too old!" Some of us grew up out of the puppy stage of life and realized that not everyone wants to listen to our noise. I ran 3" straight pipe for a very long time. Love the sound but then realized towing long distance I really didn't like the drone much anymore. I now love the sleeper style. No one even knows what lurking behind them... Then BAM! You are past them in a blink of an eye. All they see is stock looking Dodge blowing by them.

Pros it's small enough to store the panels under your bed if you have the storage area. Cons is the panels are just enough to power a small 19" (IIRC) flat screen TV for the day. Beyond that, the panels won't keep up. I've also got the Harbor Freight Inverter powering the 120 VAC outlets as well. Made my own transfer switch and works good. No issues at all powers my laptop, charges cell phone, etc. My power requirements are low usually when I'm camping in the RV. I'm not there to burn power in the RV all day but to be outside enjoying what you travelled too.

Got to admit Dan has a killer looking truck. Blue Dodge with dual stacks in the bed. He needs to post up some pictures or build a Garage entry...

I met up with him and it is the flash. All IAT and ECT signals are correct.

Like myself i can go to ontario oregon and get B10 i think. Sad though that biodiesel is more expensive than petro diesel. Id rather have petro diesel more btu content.

Another tidbit higher the cetane the lower the BTU content.

Ummm... Way over kill. Even trailers only use 14 AWG and powering way more lights. Just checking you got a total of 10 amp load.

Won't make a difference. The high idle is based on the idle validation switches. I've got to be in Meridian by noon typically. Give me a call at 208-315-1470. I'll get you direction to where I'll be at.