Mopar1973Man

I might resemble that comment... Nerdy kid with braces. Yes, I was a light weight (in jr. high I weighed 118 pounds), thin as a rail, wearing braces and shooting .22 rifles. I would have to say your comment is not valid...

Mine is not commercial use. I'm not for hire so I'm not going to even worry about. I'm under the weigh limit for requirement so I'm not going to worry. As for use I'm out in the middle of nowhere. I'm not like the other yeah whos that fly their drones in a city and crash them into building, other vehicles and people. The most I can do is lose my drone to a tree. I look forward to firewood season in the spring. I'll be able to drive to an area and the just fly the drone to check for dead trees I can harvest. Again its not like I'm going to be flying thousand feet in the air, or beyond my line of eye sight.

Excessive boost will cause limp mode. If you boost is exceeding 19-20 PSI it will trip limp mode without tripping a code. If you do manage to pull hard enough it will trip P0234. I've ran several times with my boost elbow and no boost fooler and it just falls on its face without tripping a code. It relies on the limp mode more so. I would inspect the turbo wastegate. Cleaning the MAP sensor will not fix anything either.

Under Settings go to User-Defined PID's. This will allow you to set your own custom PIDs and custom math for them as well.

99% of all electronic problems come from excessive AC noise from the alternator. Way too many people follow bad information on relocating or adding ground wires, adding noise filters, or just modify the wiring system. This all creates a masking effect which makes it harder to detect the AC noise problem but also allows the AC noise to do more damage.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SH3MU0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 UDI U818A WiFi FPV RC Quadcopter Drone with HD Camera RTF - VR Headset Compatible - Headless Mode, Low Voltage Alarm, Gravity Induction - Includes BONUS BATTERY + Power Bank (Quadruples Flying Time) - FAA Registration NOT Required

No license required for mine... Under the weight limit.

Just a power washer and water. That all I do for the 96 Tonneau cover. The vinyl looks dirty all the time but is actually fair clean.

Hard to judge being I came down Boise, ID empty and return home loaded with 14 sheets of drywall. Let's just say that holding 20's for MPG in the dead of winter with temps as low as 19*F and still holding up the MPG's. More time to judge the tonneau cover but with my canopy it did awesome but I never ran the Quadzilla Adrenaline and my old canopy. So hard to judge the new tonneau cover and the Quadzilla Adrenaline combo.

Absolutely...

That is not a ground strap for electrical ground just provides shielding for the PCM case that's all. The actual PCM ground is the passenger side ground cable. Should pay more attention to the main negative cable on the passenger side being that provides the ground for the PCM, ECM and the VP44. That little ground strap again is only to ensure the PCM case is part of the ground plane. Like my truck the PCM is mounted to plastic screw nuts on the steel plate. So this would produce a floating ground plane for the PCM case and possible allow EMF noise to pass through the case.

Really?

Like my trip back from Boise my max high mark in MPG's was 24.5 MPG with weather in the 19*F to 25*F range. Snow falling. By the time I got home crawling around in the snow weather and poor road conditions I still kept close to 22 MPG. So it's not a fair trip number being I was packing 14 sheets of drywall and other things in the bed of the truck.

I've got the OBDLink LX (Green).

I typically call the manufacturer and ask for the specs from the tech dept and they typically will provide what you are looking for. Just tell them you doing research personally. I've never had an issue getting information. Like Chevron use to post all the specs on their site for the longest time and now stripped most of it off their web site. So the last time I got the phone number from the local Chevron and made the call to the tech dept and got the spec numbers and did my own figuring out. Some manufactures have specs on web pages some in PDF documents and some don't list them at all and you have to call.

Kind of late posting this but I've been busy. I finally round filed the old aluminum canopy and got a Lund Roll Up Tonneau Cover. Works excellent. Pulls rather snug and doesn't flap much and kept my dry wall dry.

This is a good reason to quit looking at cheap fuel from little convenient stores and look toward name brand fuels. Like I typically stay with Chevron, Cennex, Shell, Flying J, Maverik, etc. All high flow places typically the fuel is a bit more expensive but the fuel MUST meet the requirement of the brand name. Years ago Chevron use to keep a page updated with pour point temperatures, and dates of when PPD where used and basically how much. Now the page has been removed. I've been know to ask store owners of what type of fuel filters used are they using paper filters or water blocking filters and what micron rating. I've going to recheck my local Chevron since its changed owners now and want to see if they still hold the same standards.

In either case now the Quadzilla Adrenaline is the best module to customize both fueling and timing for you application.

When I last checked the specs of my local fuel it was in the range of 48 to 53 cetane and depending n dates. Again adding cetane booster would be pointless. Even some stations post there pour point temps.

Adding optilube to my fuel would be pointless the fuel up here is rated for close to -30F. So it would be a waste for me l. I've already done the study work. I've actually called the tech dept for specs of the name brands I use.

I've also seen a 2001 Dodge with FASS 150 also froze up and could not blow air through the lines. Even with power service in the fuel so antigen is not all the solution. Like I've never used any antigen yet.

Remember if you have water in your fuel there is nothi,g you can add to deal with water here is a fuel filter on a small tractor with ice and had anti-gel in the fuel.

Most likely the power steering pump. No pressure, no assist. Most likely when you high r'ed the engine the pump was damaged or blew the pressure regulator in the pump.

Again it about having enough IAT temperature to get the fuel to go bang. Being IAT is based on coolant temperature it important to monitor both coolant and IAT temperature. That's why I marked the gauges with normal ranges for optimal performance. 190 to 200 coolant temperature and 100 to 140 for IAT temperature. Again it's about having the warmth to ignite the fuel.

Double check you connection. Then clear the codes. It possible to set codes turning the selector knob too slow between settings. If still having problems submit support ticket we'll deal with the issue.