Mopar1973Man

Not the issue. I've got 2 bulbs in each headlight but only one bulb at a time is lit. Always bright but the hi beam side is a narrow reflector so the beam path is narrow as well.

Like I said it might be easier to just doze the house and start over. So far no one has found a solution that doesn't cost a fortune.

If there was a way I could get to the menu easy on my phone I'd be happy to help out with logging data. Since the icon is so tiny and hard to get the menu open it not safe for me to even try in all my travels. It not safe for me even try getting menu open and exporting a data log. I sure wish this problem was fixed.

I'll have to get photos of the house up close for you all. There is no way to jack up this buildng.

The house is becoming a turd. Water leaks in from the floor. Built of cinder blocks and concrete so it very difficult to heat and keep heated. Like @JAG1 said I would have to cut out the floor dig in a full set of leech lines (french drains) and re-pour the concrete floor. It would almost be better to doze it over nad start over with a new building.

Updated my first post with an Excel sheet of my tunes currently loaded.

No. The house is buried into the mountain side with very large rocks and boulders around the the back of the house. You can quite literally walk up the bank and step onto the roof without a ladder. @JAG1 has been here and seen the house. Not the greatest pic but fairly current. Just less snow. The mountain is within 2-3 foot from the roof eve.

Most likely not. You can do what I do and install VirtualBox and then install Windows on the virtualbox and run the flash updater there. I'm a Linux user so I'm going to safely assume there is no Mac Software available. https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads

Oh crap... I hope you not wanting it over night or anything speedy. With my crazy schedule running MoparMom back and forth it will be very slow project.

Disabled till April. Freezing issues and not permitted to use irrigation water till April.

Well gang... Got home last night from my Boise trip and was getting MoparMom across the ice and I could hear water running. My ear homed in on it as I walked up the front porch to the main house. After getting MoparMom in the house I went back down to the guest house to find the water leaking back into the house again. (All kinds of nasty words inserted here) So this morning I called a friend up and been moving furniture from the guest house to the main house garage and getting the carpet lifted somewhat to get it to start drying out. Fans going and heat on. Rather frustrating to have new carpet less than a year old and now been soaked twice in the same year. So I'm backed up again attempting to get forward. Same thing as this post. Same mess... Different time...

Which Mike are you referring to?

Basically, hook the black/white to pin 85, yellow/white to pin 86. You can reverse the 85 and 86 with no harm.

Yellow/White is - Positive 12V power (ECM controlled). Black/White is ground

Basically there is no protection relay or fuse between the lift pump and the ECM. So if for some reason the lift pump to lock up or short out the ECM would take the damage and cost upwards of $1,500 and higher to replace. So protection relay and fuse is much cheaper than losing a ECM.

Like myself still using the OEM Y steering and tie rod end's heading for 300k miles. Only replaced one set of ball joints and avoided using Moog. So far these ball joints (AC Delco) are still going strong and no issues.

4,500 PSI is the pop pressure of the injector. Just like all the fuel system they all raise the line pressure to throttle more.

All I can do is sit back and wait...

I can say I've tried 4.5* all the way down to 1.0* of cruise timing with no change in MPGs so far. I'm hovering at about 15* total timing at 55 MPG and 16* at 65 MPH. Still hanging around the 18.7 MPG range. I think part of this is the limit of the winterized fuel I'm using.

I'm now in the phase testing 1* of cruise timing.

Hmmm.... It might get rather a mess in my cab soon. Arrgh...

Right here...

I hate to say it. I now know why the relay kit. The low beams are awesome, much wider path of light and very good quality. The high beam is horrid... Like OMG where did the light go? The high beams are a narrow slot of light as wide as the highway but the quality isn't that great at all. So I now understand the relay kit and why it's needed. When the relay kit is installed the two bulbs work in tandem and provide much more light. But with the splitter cable supplied is not a good option at all. So anyone going to consider the sport headlight option make sure to order the set with the relay kit.

Most folk pull power from the battery. +12V -> 20A Fuse -> Pin 30 on the Relay -> Pin 87 out to the lift pump Black / White on the lift pump lead -> Pin 86 of the relay White/yellow on the lift pump lead -> Pin 85 of the relay (trigger power).

Most all aftermarket fuel systems today have a trigger relay and 20 amp fuse. I would highly suggest relay and fuse protection to prevent the full load of the pump being placed on the ECM like OEM setup is.