Mopar1973Man

Bought my two from NAPA.

Remove the radiator completely and power wash from both sides. You might want to use a better quality degreaser that really clean up the caked greasy oil. This stuff really works good. http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-ZU0856128/100047759 Front seal would be a good thing. Double check all your gear case bolts on the inside too. I highly suggest you buy a 36mm fan wrench and a fan pulley holder. I know of people using a punch rod and knocking the fans off with a hammer. Not a good idea being it puts stress on the hub bearing do that. Just shortens the life of the bearing. It is a left hand thread so think backwards.

Good ol' Linux/Android to rescue...

I've seen another youtube of a gent that did an Android Stereo and loaded his Quadzilla App on as well. He had it all custom with DVD movie player as well in 3rd Gen truck.

I would suggest you just consider replacing the injectors. Good time for upgrading...

I highly suggest you do a AC noise test on the truck if the VP44 failed. If you don't resolve that issue the new VP44 will go down that road again and fail.

Either way, I highly suggest fully disassemble and rebuild the transmission again. Since something is wore out it best to fully disassemble so you can inspect all parts for damage. Like mine I broke the main shaft but found out the bearing were wore out and so was the 5th gear on the bearing face. The inside of the 5th gear wore the hard facing off.

Correction 1/2" PVC pipe.

Best off going direct plumbed to the gauge. Very few people have gotten an isolator to work right and accurately.

The sensor is the on in the manifold that the live data tool will see. The one in the airbox as far as I know is not readable with a OBDII live data tool.

Is a IAT sensor is off it won't trip a code because it failed within normal operating range. This why we need the live data from the ECM at key On then we can see what the ECM is doing.

Need to get a live data tool from some one. You could buy a OBDLink for cheap... http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ Then you'll be able to read live data then. This is my current layout...

Again, we need to know what the IAT temperature is showing when you turn the key on. Like I've got either ScanGauge II, OBDLink LX, or Quadzilla Adrenaline that will display the IAT temperature. This is the key factor in how long grid heaters fires or if the don't fire at all. I typically compare against the engine coolant sensor for accuracy. So if you IAT temperature3 is showing 65*F at key on while it actually colder then it not going to fire the grid heater at all. It does just the bulb check and that's it.

My first thought is the BATT +12V lead on the Quadzilla Adrenaline isn't hooked up.

What is your measured IAT temperature at the time you turn the ignition key on? This is critical to know. You might of just replaced a IAT sensor for nothing...

Here you go gang. I found an easy way to build fuel maps for the Quadzilla. http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/math/exponential-growth-calculator.htm So I started out by setting my "Enter initial value (x0)" to 100 which is where I want my starting point of my fuel map. I set my "Enter growth/decay rate (r)" to 1.3% then enter 30 to "Enter time (t)" to see when the max value hit. Then start at 0 and work your way up plugging the numbers into Quadzilla. Makes a nice clean curve for the fuel map. If you want it steeper you can increase growth rate 0.1 or 0.2 higher. Works good. Now I'm just a gray haze in lvl 3 or lvl 6. So I've got it nailed down just about right for my truck. This calculator makes a nice exponential curve for the fuel map. Here is what I've got now. 101 102 103 105 106 108 109 110 112 113 115 116 118 119 121 122 126 129 132 136 139 143 147

You might look in the download area... I'm not sure what we've got anymore for books...

Like myself I've got rather smallish injectors where I can ramp up aggressively and still be rather smokeless running. Now like @TFaoro he's got to ramp up slow and be more careful about settings because of the larger injectors. Name of the game is to feed as much fuel as possible across the full fuel and boost map without smoking excessively. When you get smoke then your basically flooding the cylinder without enough boost pressure to ignite the fuel completely. I'm still attempting to get better handle on all the setting and relearning with every flash upgrade. Like with my set up I enjoy the idea that the injectors are small and need to use the Quadzilla Adrenaline to push beyond the stock rates. This makes for good control yet and MPG values. I'm still waiting for @Me78569 and @TFaoro to catch me in the MPG game. The horse power game has already been played out we all know how far these trucks will go with HP/TQ but has anyone play the efficiency game to 30 MPG? Not yet on the 24 valved trucks. I'm going to attempt to beat my previous 27.2 MPG by any amount.

Personally, when @hex0rz told me that DAP sent the new nozzle and pintle for him to install I knew there was going to be issues. It always mandatory to re-pop test and flow match when you change nozzles. How is the owner to know that the nozzle and pintle are exactly the same as the other 5 injectors for pop pressure and flow rates? They don't. I would of boxed up the injectors and had sent them back to have the new nozzle installed and all 6 retested and flow matched.

Stock tire size is 265/75 R16.

235mm = 9.25 265mm = 10.43 10.43 - 9.25 = 1.18 inch difference. Math doesn't lie... 235mm x 85% = 199.75mm 265mm x 75% = 198.75mm 199.75 -198.75 = 1.00mm difference in height... Math doesn't lie...

There is very little difference is size. Width 1.1" inches narrow, Height it's 0.04" taller. But the key feature is 235's are 23-25 pounds lighter! Only 1 rev/mile difference. Way less rotational mass.

Here go read over the diagnostics for the code...

Just a light puff just as the wire tap hits then clears right up. I might bump the wire tap back to 10 PSI. Pulls like a mule getting on the interstate. Gotta be careful it's been known to break the tires loose getting to the top end of 3rd gear.