Mopar1973Man

Might pop test the injectors if they have any mileage on them. Mine randomly has a cool down lope after hard runs. So like getting off the interstate running 80 MPH and then stop at a truck stop. When I pull in to park and allow the Quadzilla to do the cooldown you hear a random lope. As it cools it typically goes away. I've had mine re-tested by Vulcan Performance and there is no issues with the injectors. In my case it falls under...

I've got a sound measure app on my phone later on today I'll measure the sound levels.

No. Flat... Just lightly notched. All I did was lay quarter (coin) on the tank bottom measured to that and cut the straw flat. Then with an angle grinder lightly notched the tip no more than a 1/16" deep on the notches. No its not touching the bottom. Also for every gallon of diesel fuel is 6.1 pounds so by the time I get a full tank bottom deflects away from the tip of the straw another 1/8 or so. That's your problem now your straw is 1/2" away and as you fill the tank the straw is actually farther away from the tank bottom so air issues can become worse.

Typically they get removed because of flow issues.

I've got only the thickness of a quarter (coin) from the tip to the tank. So I'm going to have to agree with above post it's most likely cavitation issue and you are going to have to replace your draw straw.

Most likely the torque converter is draining back in the pan. Most likely the check valve in the cooler line is not hold closed or it's been removed.

I would look for quality unit that you can wire into the truck. I would get whip that is taller than the RV. Typically the RF signal radiates in all directions from the tip of the whip. So it's best to have a whip taller than you RV. Most all AM band radios are 4 watts unless it's got upper and lower sidebars then it's 16 watts.

Only the Quadzilla shows timing and allows for custom timing.

Like on @Taz truck which was a 1992 Dodge Cummins he had one brush in the starter wore out. So it was only running on 1/2 a starter. Rather weak in starting power. On warm starts it only needs about 300 Amps to turn the engine over but in a sub zero cold start it can be as high as 700 amps.

Your high idle is from the cold coolant. If you got a proper thermostat 190* it should idle at about 800 RPM's. I typically use a NAPA 190*F thermostat and not had any issues with them.

Even crawling around in the woods and stopping for photos and letting the dog run. I still managed to climb to just below 7,000 elevation no snow yet. Also got home with 23 MPG. Still smiling...

Yea... I finally pulled the trigger and took a day off and go play in the woods. I did a full loop from Home to McCall, Idaho then up Warren Wagon Road, then turned off at Burgdorf and headed towards Riggins, ID. The hit the highway and returned home. Just about 130 mile round trip. 2/3 of that trip was on dirt roads.

Keeping honest people, honest...

Limited slip requires 75w-140 synthetic. I would just get a local fluid and run it.

Possibly the starter contacts or starter brushes getting weak or wore out? I would still do a voltage drop test and verify every thing if you can.

Funny thing is the factory batteries went 10 years on my truck with no issues. When I replaced them in 2012 I bought a set of Walmart batteries which happen to be the very same manufacture as the OEM batteries and just slightly larger CCA (750 vs 810). As for all this talk of the larger sized batteries for reserve capacity and more CCA's it not required nor is it going to change the life of the battery or easy of starting. Even with -30*F starts no issues here with 1620 CCA worth of Walmart batteries. The start only draw roughly a max of 700 Amp on a cold start. By battery design you should draw to maximum 50% CCA of your batteries. So even with stock 750 (1500 CCAs) that only 46% load on the batteries. Even with my 810 (1620 CCAs) Walmart is only 43% cranking load. Still well below the 50% mark. The only thing it might do is give you more cranking time for those days of repriming the VP44 when you run out of fuel. The biggest link is the cable condition and quality of the terminals. Voltage drop test will tell you that story. As for oversizing the batteries won't do much difference. So you could have the biggest batteries or even 4 batteries and bad cables it will not pass the power to the starter. Kind of like have 200HP injectors with a stock lift pump. If the link between the batteries and the starter are junk no amount of CCAs will change the starter performance. Common sight to see... Even with big batteries it just not going to make a difference with junk cables and terminals.

Remember diesel is about 6.1 pounds per gallon.

Not much maybe 15 pounds or so.

You might add at the "My timing settings don't work." To set the warm up setting to 165*F this allows for the engine to fully warm up and give the best performance once the warm up is finished the timing and every works optimally.

Personally... Just way too confusing. Remove all the stock supply fuel lines and stock Carter lift pump. Now install the FASS on the sump. Cap off the old fuel pickup module (supply). Just install only one fuel system don't bother with back up stock systems.

Nicks got mine tweaked in close. Absolutely filled in that hole in my fuelling map. The lag is gone for the most part and it spools much faster and harder now. I've also go to tweak the fuel map some because of gaining a bit of smoke.

I do too, but most people don't like the style of music I do. I'm more of popular type of person.

2003 and up to current is ATF+4 1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid. Right out of the FSM... CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill.

I'm nearly 300k miles now and been using well or creek water and either green or unversial yellow coolants. To this date I've not had a single cooling system problem and no scale build up either. Just good old mountain water and cheap coolant.

Kind of like the Edge Comp. It's good powerful box but not enough control to clean it up properly. Now with the Quadzilla and it's simple programming you can control timing and fuel both. I'm sure the Smarty Pro will too but still limited in power production without a wire tap.