Mopar1973Man

Welcome as well. The name rings a bell... I just can't place you...

As you follow the orange/black lead... You'll see the WTS is not part of the cluster so the WTS is directly from the ECM. Kind of good that gives that indication that there is a problem booting up the ECM because it doesn't light up when it should.

Noise is one thing but did you actually test for power at those devices? Because the WTS light is not controlled by the cluster but directly from the ECM so... No, the WTS light is not controlled by the cluster module so it can't be tested during the cluster test.

There would be a P0381 error code if the bulb is burnt out.

@dripley is right you can swap another ECM for test run to see if the problem goes away. If so it proves the ECM is damaged. The WTS light issue is a sign of failing memory of the board and boot errors are occurring. Once it makes a good boot and the checksum matches then the first instruction is to light the WTS light and fire the grid heater if needed. ECM memory is seen here the two matching chips which are two 256k memory chips.

.... Even @Taz made a comment that my truck is a pavement princess... Not! I was just smart enough not to get buried... I was carrying 4 one ton bails on my little trailer.

Still running my 235/85 R16's. walked right up there most the way in 2WD. Last bit I started to slip and used 4WD. Only 1.1" smaller in width from 265's.

@Taz shooting a picture of me... Diesel in flight running back to us. Then the old 2002 Cummins sitting in the snow...

@TazOnly 17 one ton hay bails on the trailer and one soft muddy field Here is even a picture of my little trailer...

(Graciously bows) Thank you sir!

You can do it. It's mathed out from the MAP sensor. Then using offset percentage to correct. The ECM does not have GPH flow rates. Put me on your list...

Now the other bug you CAN'T resolve is the GPH flow rate given by the ECM for MPG will be majorly off when you add a tuner and injectors. No way to correct that offset. Like my truck its off by 14.5% with +50HP injectors and the Quadzilla so on a stock overhead I would show 32-35 MPG.

Be aware that tire size on the door label 99% do not match what the truck came with. My 1996 Dodge 1500 came with 235/85 R16 tires and the door label states 225/85 R16. Then my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 came with 265/75 R16 tires but states on the sticker that its 245/75 R16. You'll have to get a build sheet from the dealer to find out what the truck came with.

Here is my current empty truck tune for +50HP injectors. Just a light gray haze for WOT runs. I'm using my exponential curve now. Starting at 100, with a growth of 1.3% http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/math/exponential-growth-calculator.htm Power Levels: 7 Fuel Load timing: 2 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Light Throttle Timing Adv:2 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 30 Timing vs rpm 1500: 16 2000: 18 2500: 23 3000: 25 Timing Max: 26 Pump Stretch: 1400 TPS Pump max: 100 TPS Pump Min 5 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage:0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 10 Boost Scaling: 40 PSI RPM Limit: 3200 Power Reduction: 5% 0 PSI %: 100 1 PSI %: 101 2 PSI %: 102 3 PSI %: 103 4 PSI %: 105 5 PSI %: 106 6 PSI %: 108 7 PSI %: 109 8 PSI %: 110 9 PSI %: 112 10 PSI %: 113 11 PSI %: 115 12 PSI %: 116 13 PSI %: 118 14 PSI %: 119 15 PSI %: 121 16 PSI %: 122 18 PSI %: 126 20 PSI %: 129 22 PSI %: 132 24 PSI %: 136 26 PSI %: 139 28 PSI %: 143 30 PSI %: 147

Pecker wood tree?

This is because the oil has settle in the bottom and requires RPM to pump it back into the hub. Mine is the same way after starting it roams for the first few seconds of leaving the driveway but once its unlocked it just like my video above. I've done this hundreds of times for people. I'll start it rev it to 1,500 to 1,800 RPM for about 10 seconds and bring it back to idle. Then I can grab a rubber hose and stop the blades every time. That first few seconds is the oil being pumped back into the hub of the fan.

Really???

No. Can't be that is a regulated 5V signal from the ECM. The only thing I can think off is crappy offset of the MAP sensor values or possibly a bad or weak ground lead on the MAP sensor. Which this is a internal floating ground of the ECM. The master ground (or real ground) of the ECM is the passenger side battery terminal.

Skip at idle is typically more of injector issue than a VP44 issue. This will show more as the engine is hot than cold. I would say pull the injector and have them pop tested.

I ran 15w-40 in my 1983 Goldwing for years no problems.

It shouldn't spin cold. The oil should be settle to the bottom and thick and it should be extremely stiff. Once started and driving a short distance the oil will spin back to the hub unlocking. As for my clutch...

Correct. Canceling high idle... 1. Speed >0 MPH 2. Coolant Temperature >170*F 3. APPS Sensor Off Idle State 4. Brake pedal pressed To reset completely you need to shut down completely and count to 10.

MoparMom's white LG G4 phone...

I had a nice 4 hour conversation with MoparMom on the phone for Thanksgiving. Now I've done something else for MoparMom. I just bought a new LG G4 phone and going to set up my previous phone for MoparMom so she can stay in touch easier with me. All I got to do is get a new SIM's card from TracFone and get her new phone number.

100w x 2 = 200w = 14.4 x 13.88 amps. I know the headlight fuses are 15 amp.