Mopar1973Man

Like the delayed "Wait To Start" light would be bad memory so replacing the two RAM chips would be easy. As for the failed lift pump you just have to find the MOSFET that controls the lift pump circuit and replace it. Like random revving issues that might be a processor issue. I've got to do some more reading on that Motorola processor and get better understanding of it functions.

I tend to avoid synthetic 2 cycle oil. First off there is no gain to using a more expensive synthetic over petroleum oils. Not to mention synthetic oils do not have PPD (pour point depressants) because of the synthetic oils don't have paraffin waxes. PPD's are good for winter time use small amount of change in pour points for your fuel where synthetics will not.

Reflash will get rid of the codes.

Should be a sintered brass snubber not an orifice. Still need to be at least 5 feet away from the tap point to allow the pulses to fade that make it through the snubber.

Has to be water tight. Might be a tough order being the 50 pin plug is soldered to the board and the mylar being glued to the aluminum. Hmmmm...

So that would require figuring out how to remove the mylar circuit board from the current case to be re-applied. I'm not sure how that could be done as of yet. It's actually glued directly to the aluminum case. So the entire case is a heat sink for the processor chip. After reading up IIRC the processor is capable of operation temperatures of 150*C or 302*F.

The bad part is getting the ECM can open and access the circuit. It's a folded thick aluminum can so this adds a bit more challenge. Once you fold it open your start to crack the aluminum case.

RAM is is just RAM there is no need to reflash again you not changing the FLASH RAM. If you where to solder on new RAM just plug it in and run the software would be untouched being its stored in the Intel Chip if I'm not mistaken. No different that changing the memory in a computer has no impact on what store on your hard drive (flash ram). Not to mention seeing the MOSFET's for the lift pump circuit those would be easy to replace if I could get a part number.

Again... Like I found out the exhaust isn't the problem as long as the vehicle is moving at highway speeds. Radiant heat is blown off easily. It's when you slow down there is no wind to carry the heat away. I seen the same thing on climbing forestry road and towing my trailer also it even more evident at slower speeds even though AH64ID says it taking less torque to more might be true but there is way less air to cool the transmission. Speed is key to maintaining temperature balance. Also 225*F is nothing for temperature the Mobil 50 SAE is rated to around 280*F (but I don't want to go that high myself) and in the case of this run I was only 1 mile from the top and knew I'd make it. Just as I drop over the other side it would cool down. Even with my daily work travels here in the canyon, I'm abusing it a bit by leaving the truck idle. Now here is some other info. If I have 100-110*F outside temp, leave the truck idle with air conditioning on it will run the transmission temp to 160*F just idling. Then after I'm done with a job and hop into my chilled cab drive to another job or home typically the empty truck transmission temperature is still right around 140*F even after idling 160*F. Again I'm still without any coolers or mods on the transmission.

In 3rd its like 900-1000*F. In 4th its like 1,100*F-1,200*F.

I'm trying to find out some of the chips and other parts within the ECM to learn more about the design. Like the processor has over 72 MB worth of documents on what it can do. I know now that since the circuit board is glued to the case the case acts like a heat sink for all the parts. I was looking up specs for operation temperatures and this ECM can tolerate a lot of heat in operation.

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I've got to say Thank You to a member sending my his damaged ECM for study purpose. I know you'll come forward to acknowledge this. I figured for the sake of knowledge of the ECM why not document as much as I can for other to learn. I can say without a doubt the circuit board is mylar and securely glued to the aluminum case. It's a single sided solder setup but it double sided tracers. MEMORY - Toshiba TC55257DFI-70L (256k CMOS SRAM 32k X 8) FLASH MEMORY- Intel AB28F400BR-B80 (4-Mbit (256K X 16, 512K X 8) Smartvoltage Boot Block Flash Memory. Access Speed 80 NS) PROCESSOR - Motorola SC416652GMFT20 - 68336 Family - 20 Mhz Frequency It's going to take me time to hunt down more I've really straining to see the chip numbers through the spray coating on top of them. I'm too afraid to rub it off. Might make things worse.

First off did you directly install the fuel pressure sensor to the VP44 inlet? If so you killing the sensor. You need to remote mount the sensor away from the VP44. You can check the AirDog regulator it's either adjustable or it's the old school check ball and spring. The check ball and spring is in behind the return fitting of the AirDog.

Just doing a search for grease applications there is a huge amount of information out there and explaining what is good for each application. Takes a bit of reading and understanding.

Kind of like this chart.

True... It's more like if you are going to use the wrong lubricant it's a band-aid to get you home short distance.

As far as I know it's legal to tow doubles in Idaho without any special endorsements on your license.

Like old time mechanic told me years ago before he pasted away from a stroke... "It's better to run the wrong lubricant than no lubricant at all" So that being said. It will keep things going longer than no lubricant. I do understand what Wild and Free is saying about mixing of greases there is a long thread on RV sites about how different greases react with each other and how some are not compatible.

Any error codes? The only thing I can think of right now would be a lack of RPM sense from a failing sensor maybe? Hence the hiccup.

Here is your master ground for the computers. As for cab grounds they are in the driver side kick panel. There is a second connection in the center of the dash too. You'll most likely have to either pull the dash to see or lay on your back and use a mirror. Still in all that ground goes to the kick panel in the end and typically most problems are at the kick panel from rusting.

Like Dynamic told me just loosen the valve body a bit and allow it to separate from the transmission and it will drain most out of the torque converter.

Check fuse 9 in the cab. It might be cracked and opening and closing the circuit as it heats and cools. As you'll see it covers the PCM, A/C and OD circuits.

Nearly a year later on the delete I did for the local here and he's thrilled. Truck runs awesome, good power all the time, no plugged up EGR or DPF problems anymore. MPG is up more and rare do you even see smoke from the tail pipe with the tune I left it on. He loves showing friend at the amount of junk that was yanked off to make a good running truck. Most can't believe it.

Yes, You can add on top of it to reduce the chatter.