Mopar1973Man

@TFaoro Just to let you know I'm NOT going to rebuild my transmission the tools required to rebuild and the rebuild kit it will cost more that buying a re-manufactured transmission.

Cheap DVM... It doesn't have a AC scale in the 2V or 200mV range. Need at least about $100 DVM like my Fluke.

Fix the problem and drive the truck. If the problem is truly fixed then the light self reset. As for clearing the memory it can't be done unless you have a DRBIII tool like the dealer got. Still in all that will not resolve the light issue it will come back on till you repair the issue. There are dump valve solenoids and a controller. You can send that controller to Module Masters and have it rebuilt or at least read for codes.

I would hook up a mechanical gauge and verify against the reading on Quadzilla if weird and random I would verify the MAP sensor plugs are in tight and locked. Then you might have to change MAP sensors but since they are rather expensive I would test with mechanical gauge first before randomly buying a MAP sensor guessing. You have to remember Quadzilla is only seeing the same data the ECM is seeing to a point the boost fooling occurs.

Timbo APPS is basically twist the idle stop screw till the voltage rises. Then back off till it bottoms out. Add 1/2 turn after the voltage bottoms out. Don't panic if the voltage shows higher. Like my Timbo's bottoms out at .633 volts then I turn extra half turn off. There is no voltage to set to. It about making sure the bellcrank angle is back far enough to toggle the mechanical IVS switches which once it toggle IDLE then voltage doesn't matter because ECM take over with its own idling software. Timbo's no voltage to adjust or worry about not to mention the Timbo APPS is cheaper! Wells / OE APPS both require proper voltage adjustments.

Typically the low voltage code is because it dropped below 0.3 volts. Now its out of normal range. If you had a wore spot in the previous APPS that was dropping below 0.3 volts then the code will be set. I would say you fine and the lower end of 0.5 like you are. Problem is Wells doesn't list exact voltage that IVS flips like OEM Cummins APPS sensor. That voltage on the OEM sensor is where the IVS flip flop state. So like my old one was 0.526 (or something like that.) I would set for 0.4 volts. That way it was for sure low enough to cross into IDLE position. But again Wells doesn't list a transition voltage. Too many people seen that goofy CF thread about APPS voltage adjustment and now constantly thinking adjusting it higher is going to solve issues. It lower voltage are better. But once again the voltage set is based on the electronic logic switch of the Wells and OEM APPS sensors. So for OEM I would say 0.4 volts for most setups is fine. Being Wells states 0.5 to 0.6 I would aim for low end of 0.5 to be sure.

Lower is better. Again this where people get into trouble worrying about APPS voltage. The Wells APPS is using the same design of logical flipping IVS switch for IDLE and THROTTLING as a OEM APPS. It's alway best to be low and not high. You want to insure the voltage is getting low enough to trigger the IDLE position. One thing nice about the Timbo's it not voltage driven and no circuit board to fail just rheostat and to mechanical switches. Yes the wells is magnetic with no rheostat to wear out but end up with the whole voltage adjust problems all over again also the possible circuit failures from AC noise issues (possibly).

Well I'm going to give up on the idea of rebuilding it. I finally found an document explaining the rebuild process and all the expensive tools you need for removing bearing, nuts and and other hardware. By the time I buy all the tools I need to just get the whole thing apart I could of bought a re-manufactured transmission from some where without the headache... http://www.zieglerdigital.ca/public/downloads/nv4500rbman.pdf Like for example bearing puller... I don't have one. Then its really nice after tracking it all down to find out the tool is DISCONTINUED... Heck just for one socket... http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=acton&key=2011 Like I said by the time I gather all the tools I still going to be knee deep in debt.

Yes. If you hover your mouse over the dotted underlined acronyms it will display the definition. Red probe to touch the BATT terminal. Black probe touching the metal case of the alternator. If the reading is poor touch the negative battery cable. Optimally you want to measure at the alternator not on other wires or battery terminals. Same as doing DC but you select AC on a small scale some where like 2V AC or 200mV AC. Now like I said above red to the BATT terminal and black touching the case of the alternator.

Correction... Test your AC noise voltage every oil change. Grab a DVM with capability of measuring small voltage on AC volts and just probe the BATT and the alternator and the alternator case. That's all there is to it. No. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the wiring. It worked for over 14 years the way its was designed. Again fix the cause of the problem. The alternator! The wiring has ZERO to do with the problem. Again fix the problem... The noise filter will only handle maybe a single bad diode then when two pop it will blow so much AC noise the filter will fail. Again this alternator smoke 2 diodes and tin foil, ground reroute and noise filter could NOT reduce the noise. Pure and simple the alternator failed! The picture below is 2 failed diodes and pushing over 0.3 AC volts. Reduce your loads on the alternator. Like I unhook my grid heaters in the summer because they are not needed. Every time they cycle can pull either 95 amps (single grid) or 190 amps (both grids). The alternator is only rated for 140 amps. So at idle its not spinning fast enough to keep up now if you rev it now the grid hold on longer which makes it worse now adding more time to heating up the diodes to failure. It's all about heat and current flow on the diodes. Some people have gone to the National Alternator and gotten bigger alternators but it requires wiring changes because the factory charge lead is too small plus the alternator fuse is two small as well.

@Taz showed up to my house on Thursday for his gages and a-pillar setup. Also had a few other things to fix like his exhaust brake not working and also got a windshield banner. So here is the gauge setup. ISSPro EV2's chrome rims, blue on white background. Now the fastener for A-pillar is a chrome bolt and washer looks very stylish and proper. Much nice that standard old hardware bolt. Then he wanted a nice windshield banner too so I got that stuck to the glass...

Ok. That would be like my road from Whitebird grade across Lake Rd to north side of Grangeville. Is posted 45 MPH I'm typically running 55 MPH is a dirt road cut off that saves the time and mileage of driving into Grangeville and back out again... My choice of roads that day was a bad idea but it gives an idea of the throw...

Same here. Most of the city streets of McCall are graveled roads then most of New Meadows is too.

Weird.... either I'm lucky because of the canopy or because of the trailer design.

The other part has to do with the GL-5 is not compatible with the syncros from what I've read and like for NV4500 that fluid was design to over come the hard shifting in cold weather operation. I can't speak for the other tranmissions but I do some research on what I'm running...

Also could be the same thing I've got a problem with. 4th gear syncro. Later today I get some photos. Like I've learned already the syncro more so of the detent action that the top cover is. Take quit a bit to push with your fingers a shift ring over the syncro on a good syncro.

I'm also out here in the back country dirt roads towing trailers but never had this issue of rocks flying forward at the rear window or tailgate. Are you running without fenders or tires hang out of the fenders or something?

First off all alternators are the same for the most part and have been for years. It just back years ago other there was no computers. So now as a diode or brush pack fails the AC noise increases and what happen the AC noise increases and computer go nuts because of the AC noise. I hate to say it even Ford and Chevy have the same problems too just manifest in different ways. So it's not the the design of the alternator its the on set of all the computers. Like you PC your using right now like to have PERFECT 5V and 12V for the motherboard thats why its got a power supply with noise filters and everything. So technically the best way to run your truck would be off the batteries without an alternator which would be absolutely clean DC power. Problem is the batteries won't last. As for steering I've just about master correcting most steering issues as long as there is stock or smaller sized tires. Even for 261k miles perfect tight steering just like the day I bought with 43 miles on the odometer. Still got OEM tie rod ends yet! So as you read the four reason you'll see the VP44 isn't really the problem everything around it. VP44 not an issue. There only 4 ways to kill a VP44. Excessive AC noise from the alternator. Low fuel pressure. Less that 14 PSI is asking for trouble loss all your cooling flow. Filtration most people toss the stock can it best to double up stock like FASS 150 or AirDog 150 against the stock can. Fuel Lubricity. It should be <450 HFRR (Bosch Standards) but US diesel fuel is typically ~520HFR. Air Filter thumping noise is for the most part normal because of the megaphone effect of the BHAF if installed. You can go ahead and verify the valve lash and do a compression test but I'm pretty sure everything will be fine. You not complaining about white smoke on startup, unusual cranking speed with surge, or misfiring. Vacuum pump seal kit is only 13 dollars and typically change them out in about 1 hour. No problem Most all plastic exposed to lots of UV's and heat tend to degrade. That's another thing that I still don't have a problem with. If you got a 47RE automatic talk to Dynamic he's a transmission guru and can build a heck of transmission. As for the 47RE is actually based on the old 727 Torqueflite from back in the 70's. Dodge has been using that transmission since 1956. The problem was and error was the transmission was designed around a V8 HP/TQ where its high the RPM span but the Cummins is much lower and the transmission doesn't deal with it good. Then toss on power mods and the trans gives up early because most like to defeat the torque management and build more low end power. POP goes the transmission. There is another very weird design flaw that we all suffer with but no one every talks about... (another chapter...)

Tomorrow I'll try pulling the rear cover off and and do this... I want to clean the case out really good there is crud in the oil holes. I want to clean it out really well.

Well... Errr... Ummm... I have no idea what I'm doing... I got the top cover off but no idea how to get the shaft out... Good normal wear appearance... None that I seen... Know more if I find a way to get it apart. (Dunce Smiley)

Got the transmission out. No broken gear teeth. 3rd and 4th gear syncro is broken. You can select 3rd or 4th gear by sliding the shift collar and the shaft is free spin yet till it hits a snag in the shaft then hooks but not enough to pull the truck.

Busy... Working on 2006 Dodge for the weekend... @Taz is going to help me drop the trans this morning...

I don't have either. I'm looking to do a single ISSPro Trans Temp gauge and the two sensors. One for the transmission and then one for the rear differential then add a toggle switch to toggle either transmission or rear differential temps. I'm thinking ahead on this one...

ZERO. Should be DC power with little to ZERO AC Frequency...

New doesn't mean good. I've seen new alternators failed right out off box. Any alternator you buy make sure to have tested. I typically buy reman'ed.