Mopar1973Man

Cost you billions if not trillions of dollars to clean it up if you do buy it.

I like Cowboy link much better because at least the spin on filters are going to have bypass set up to allow flow of fluid no matter what. This way there is no surprises when the filter plugs up and you can also easily spin a new filter and top off again.

No joke... Radiation is all around you that simple gas mask isn't going to protect you from all the active radiation in the area.

Its possible the gasoline caused some wear in the pump but the only way to find out is to change the VP44 for known good one. $1,100 is a big pill to swallow for most and would really hurt the wallet if you bought a VP44 and still had the same problems. Is that a gamble your willing to try? Personally I would exhaust everything else I could possibly try before putting money on a high dollar item.

Like my BigTex has Load Range C's 1,820 pounds at 50 PSI. GVWR of 7,000 pounds. (7000 / 4) 1750 / 1820 = .96 x 50 = 48 PSI. In this case I run 40-45 PSI even though most of the time I'm right near my GVWR of the trailer. This is so the tire can still deflect some what road debris or potholes. My BigTex is typically ran in offroad conditions more than highway so debris, rocks, potholes, washboard, etc. I've never inflated to max pressure still.

I agree with AH64ID on this on. Inflating to MAX is not a good idea. As for figuring out pressure I figure to the trailers GVWR not scaled weight. This prevents the constant need to scale to remath for every load. So like my RV I need a minimum of 57 PSI for 8500 pound RV. I tend to run 65 PSI because it takes up just a bit more side wall flex on hard cornering, still wears a flat pattern on the tread face that is equal from left, center to right. If I ran the tires at max pressure it would carry nearly 12,000 pounds. Actual scaled eight is roughly 8,000 and max GVWR is 8,500. Here is the math. (8,500 trailer GVWR / 4 tires) = 2,125 pounds per tire / 2,980 pound tire capacity = 0.71 x 80 PSI = 57.04 PSI So my current 60-65 PSI is very safe for LR E's ST tires. So why would I max inflate my trailer tires so they wear out the center quicker? Why would force the tire to carry all the weight on a narrow band in the center creating excessive heat? ST tires are no different that your truck tires you don't run 80 PSI in the truck tires do you?

I agree... I'm typically the type to dump on the ground for gray water when I can do out of sight of the public. I do agree it no different that washing your hand at the outside shower as it is washing your hand in the inside sink. But... It is illegal if caught dumping your waste water either black or gray on the ground.

Don't forget to get your new cup holder for the floor and change the dash cup holder (auto) for the pocket (manual). Being you'll not be able to fold down the old dash one with a stick in the way. Take notice to the dimples in the floor metal that is where 2 screw are shot in for the cup holder the other two where use for the old floor trim around the transfer case lever.

I'm like @IBMobile I've also got shin bone trouble around hanging hitches. I typically remove the smaller hitches and keep them in a milk crate in the truck bed. The larger RV hitch I pull it off and lay it under the RV typically.

You might not like them. Buddy of mine had his hitch stolen. So he bought a locking hitch pin. Sad part is the day he tried to unlock it to remove it the lock was seized up internally from mud and salt. Ended up having to use a torch and cut the lock off to get the hitch off. So yes they will prevent theft but might prevent you from removing it later too. Idea I've considered was getting a grade 8 bolt that was big enough for the hole and using a nyloc nut and tighten it down fairly snug.

Need to know the number of axles, tire weight capacity and max pressure then we can do the math on it. Like my own trailer I've been known to tow at 65 MPH. First let me state I'm 31 feet long in trailer and roughly 8,000 pound of trailer weight. Next thing is I always trailer with water on board and my 50 gallon water tank is to the very rear of the trailer. Being water weighs 8.345404 per gallon that 417 pound more at the rear bumper that can slosh left to right. Now all that said I can tow at 65 MPH without much problem but since the water tank is at the very back of the trailer all it takes is one wind gust or sudden jerk of the steering wheel to avoid an object or animal and the trailer can start a swaying action with is more pronounced as the water tank is now at 1/2 when water can really slosh around so just because you can do it doesn't make it the safe choice. Remember most all water tanks in RV's are not baffled and all waste holding tanks are not baffled at all. Now my kitchen gray water tank is still rearward of the axles as well. The bathroom gray tank and black tank are barely forward of the axles. So now consider half used water means split up water water weight some still rear of the axles and some now moved forward. Still unbaffled and still capable of sloshing. Now all trailers are not made equal so depending on design and weight of water and where its placed can make or break how well it tows at speed. Now if you travel dry like @dripley does then high speeds can be done rather easily less weight on the RV and less water slosh issues. Being the @dripley typically is at a full hookup RV park 99% of the time he only need enough water for travel time. So consider water movement into your safety factor and speed of tow.

Seem you might have to do some calling around. Seems rather high for surfacing a head. Unless I'm missing some sort of special requirement I don't know about.

I'm at 215k miles on my VP44... Keep going, if there is no error codes just keep going. The injectors do wear out. I would have your currently pop tested and checked. If the pop pressure is low and/or nozzle are getting pissy or poor spray then yes MPG's will fall. I would suggest stock or RV275 at the most. I would highly suggest a set of stock injectors and non-wire tap module for power. This way there is no issues for California smog testing. I don't think you want to keep changing injectors every year for smog testing. The module I would opt for either Edge EZ or Smarty. This way you can gain from timing and such improving the power and MPG some.

Sorry I don't have any pictures on the way out. I was told it will come out if you can get the chain set up just right. It will bare squeeze through the frame and cowling. I still don't see how being I took the valve cover off, #5 and #6 rockers and injectors out and still snagged #5 intake push rod and bent it getting the engine out as it slid the oil pan across the cross member. As for right now the truck is sitting in the yard rather gutless right now. The bed of the truck is filled with all the miscellaneous parts and pieces that you got to remove to get it out.

I agree... Just got to watch for those people that foolishly suggest inflating to the max on the side wall of the tire. In some cases you might have to if the RV or trailer was outfitted with a marginal load range from the get go. Like my Jayco (8,500 GVWR) was OEM with Load Range D's and gave very little margin just like 250 pound over GVWR. My BigTex (7,000 GVWR) is outfitted with Load Range C's and has even less room for margin like 150 pounds. The RV I've upgraded to load range E's keep nearly the same inflation pressure but heavier carcase on the tire. The BigTex when those get old enough to replace I'll upgrade to E's as well. Again there is more factors involved here like I would never suggest towing my BigTex at 7,000 GVWR at 65 MPH at max inflation 50 PSI I know that is a recipe for a tire blow out for sure. All it takes at that point is a pothole or object to break the belt in the tire and she'll start to shred instantly tires are just too margin for that kind of use. The inflation pressure needs to be enough to carry the weight properly but also soft enough that if it strikes a object or pothole it doesn't do damage to the tire. The tire should be capable of deflecting to some degree to prevent damage. I'm not saying it can't be done just for folks that are unsure or in the OP case renting the RV not to push their luck that's all.

In all my reading of RV forums I've not seen any manufactures that I know allow a 5th wheel / gooseneck adapters. This is the only one I've seen that makes me go... Ummmm...

I can see doing this with high quality trailer tires and possibly load range higher that what is required (ex: load range D's upgrade to Load range E's), then you can safely get away with it. If you are unsure, it's better to run a tad slower speed than to have a tire blow out rip the RV apart. RV forums are full of RV trailer blow out pictures. Some claim "China Bombs" are the cause of failure, some just don't know any better either too heavy, tires don't have the capacity, etc. Still in all, tire blow outs are typically caused from exceeding the limitations either weight, speed, or incorrect air pressure.

Most people will suggest against using a gooseneck to 5th wheel adapters being its going to more stress on the trailer pin. Ask the manufacture of the trailer if the adapter is usable with that trailer.

Can you validate your fuel pressure at highway speeds? I'm assuming your using a test gauge. I need to know if the fuel pump is keeping up with the demands the VP44 is asking for. If the fuel pressure drops below 10 PSI it starts to get difficult to create power reliably...

As for FASS they are well built pump. The problem is the pure size of the pump and protecting the pump and filters from the damage path of flying road debris flung up by the front tires. The mounting kit uses the bed mount on the driver side of the vehicle. Some say they can get it up high enough that the filters are not seen hanging. The problem still remains that the filters get struck from objects flung by the front tires be it gravel, rocks, chunk of lumber that fell off a truck. AirDog on the other hand had its own list of short coming and failures. The AirDog pumps are much smaller and very easy to hide. The current AirDog mounting kit includes plastic for mounting plates which is a shame because we know plastic won't hold up for long. I've installed both AirDog's and FASS systems both.

I'm running a clip on mirror on the passenger side for towing. I can see down both sides of my RV now the driver side stock mirror you can do find with a normal 8 foot wide box style RV or trailer. Passenger side with that goofy "closer than they appear" junk requires a clip on to get that bit of blind spot. @IBMobile is using one version I like but can't seem to get locally.

Just figured I'd pass it along that WalMart has a good price on Rotella T 15W-40 engine oil for $64.58 for 5 gallon bucket. ($12.91 a gallon). http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T-15W-40-Heavy-Duty-Diesel-Oil-5-gal./14958329 Then doing a bit of digging even NAPA is a good price for Chevron Delo 15W-40 at $63.99 a 5 gallon bucket. ($12.79 a gallon) https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=15w-40+5+gallon

Maybe that why vehicle theft is low in this part of Idaho most of all the ranchers have manual transmissions and to this day people still leave the keys in the ignition. It does happen where manual transmission vehicles are stolen. I've done a front end rebuild of a 2000 Dodge after the thief crash the truck on Christmas morning into a bridge railing on a icy road being chasing by the police. Worse yet the the caught the thief and he since then skipped bail and ran.

What matters is the return flow while its running. All the rest of the video was for to prove the lift pump can indeed push fuel past the overflow valve for priming purpose and the tiny hole can and will flow fuel for priming purpose. So for cooling purposes it only takes about 30 seconds after starting the truck to drop the pump case temperature back to fuel tank temperatures. So again the flow rate while running is the important one not bumping the starter meaningless really. This is why the upgrade form the stock value of 10 PSI to 14 PSI was now used. Because it insures that the overflow valve will be open no matter what providing the best flow through the pump and cooling the pump does rapidly from "heat soak" state.

Actually it doesn't trickle out at all it flow quite well. As for failure from heat not as common as you would like to think. Ask yourself or do a search for P0168 codes. Tell me how many times you've seen a P0168 code reported on any forum or web site? Most VP44 failure stem from AC noise issues not heat related as most people tend to believe. If so please explain how I've got 12 year old VP44 that survives 110-115*F summers and then put into the freezer at -20 to -25*F every winter? I've got 215k miles and clocking on my VP44 still pulling strong. You be losing functions possibly. Like with my truck being its fly by wire cruise I would lose cruise control for sure. P-pump conversion I don't suggest for daily drivers some people get away with other fight it constantly. More or less like ripping off a perfectly working electronic fuel injection on car to drop on a carburetor. Not that it won't work but it does create its own issues just like P7100 conversion on our truck.