Mopar1973Man

Here is a installer that screwed up the pyrometer probe install. As you'll see they drilled in the divider of the manifold.

I won't say that. Back when I barely installed my gauges completely stock powered no module or injectors yet. I was hired to tow a trailer loaded with a Chevy pickup to Boise for a friend. Just with cruise set at 65 MPH climbing 7% grade I was able to easily push 1,400*F without even thinking. At the time I was running DiPricol's gauges and they where less than 90 days old. So as for EGT's stock doesn't mean its safe.

My burnouts are typically done as I climb grades. Ask JAG1 one about that being he was in the passenger seat when it happened...

POOF! Call 911 Dave is BBQ'ing...

Be careful. Like BlueChip rebuilds pumps be unable to calibrate or flash a new PSG unit because BlueChip does not have a 815 test stand. If this company does have a 815 test stand can you please post up the information so I can add them to the list on the article database.

Kind of like us we use a mixture of linseed oil and mineral spirits to protect the wood. I'm sure JAG1 will tell you the same thing that it will not protect against UV's. Which my deck has turned dark brown to black in color. Wood is holding up pretty good. The hand rails are getting rather weathered. As for your post idea... The whole idea of large log post is neat looking but going to add to your yearly house maintenance. Like last year I did not treat the deck because of the local fire. Had too many fires too close and the linseed and mineral spirits is rather highly flammable. So consider some of these factors.

Soak it with PB blaster and either use a 3/8" impact or shock the wrench with a hammer. When re-installing put a dab of anti-seize on the threads make life better if you have to remove the probe later.

Need to find out what tap you need. 1/8" NPT is typical but check what fitting your using. Then get the proper drill for that tap. You want to drill on top of the high part of the runner. The low area is a solid divider do not drill there. A lot of people have all kinds of tricks for getting drill crumbs out of the manifold. Using magnets, q-tips, leave the engine running while drilling, shop vacuum while drilling. As for tapping just tap deep enough for the fitting to bite. Like you seen mine is not sunk in the manifold you need to consider the tip and getting it roughly in the center of the manifold port.

Yes. Typically in the past it was always said the 4,5,6 port is hotter. Consider how many times you here of someone burning #6 piston.

Totally up to you. You could plug and re-drill and tap a new port in the rear 4,5,6.

1,2,3 are DEAD. 4,5,6 are firing. Firing order - 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 I'm installed in the 4,5,6 port...

3 CYL mode is about 800-900*F with an exhaust brake, about 600*F without.

Typically not an issue as long as your not over zealous tightening the clamp.

Exhaust temps won't show you bad firing injector tip.

Stock size maybe not. But tire make up being A/T style might of. Remember this isn't a fresh new axle it a axle with over 14 year of life already on the metals.

I just got done with the BHAF on other rig. What do you need to know.

The whole log idea I can say is going to take effort to keeping looking good. Like Shaver's in McCall, ID used the same idea for the store front. Today, years later the logs are splitting open, Th cracks in some logs are big enough to stick my hand into. I would suggest that the logs are set on concrete on buried in the ground.

Yes...

Sad part is with it "BlueChip hot wired" only leave the VP44 to blame for electronics. There is no feedback of ECM or any other sensor being the injection pump has no connection ot the ECM now. As for fuel its possible for air to be present and cause weird issues. I would consider pop testing injectors and checking the fuel supply for air. If those both check out then it going to be time for a VP44.

Now that I'm getting the OBDLink dialed in and closer and closer to accurate for data logs, trip computer and anything else. I figure I needed a nice cradle to hold the tablet. Now I'll admit that it not exactly viewable while driving which is good, there is less chances of me mess with the tablet while driving or watch the gauges too much. I rigged the important gauges to have high markers so I can capture a screenshot when I stop somewhere. Now my cradle barely clears the transmission stick and I've got to be careful throwing 5th not to cram it in. The tablet barely fits with all cables hooked up including audio back to my stereo. I can see the tablet clearly in 2nd and 4th gears. 1st, 3rd, 5th block the view but oh well... Can't complain its all free materials.... Basically chopped up an old scrap 2x6. The notch is 5/8" wide. Measured 5" deep but the pocket side you have to cut the tip back 1". Then I had some scrap aluminum diamond plate left. Just bent a cupped lip on the bottom edge. Crude... Yes but functional. Like I said 5th is a bit close...

What kind of tread face? H/T, A/T or M/T

Yeah, upload to Youtube and copy the URL to the post it will automatically embed to the post.

Typically the front sensors are the trouble ones. Rear sensor you'll know if its bad because the speedometer will either quit or be really wonky. Like my truck its not the front sensor but the front wheel bearing / tone wheels. You think front sensors are expensive try saving pennies for front unit bearings. http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/PGRPBR930203_0329241875

If you considering it then just do the BlueChip hot wire test then the VP44 is standing alone and no data feed from the ECM. Maybe you can still see RPM's... If so see if it changes. If it does change then the ECM is feeding it information to idle higher. Either coolant temperature or APPS sensor.

Or less traction on the tires. One of the few reasons I went down one tire size. Between the generated torque and the tire traction something in between will fail.