Mopar1973Man

That sounds like a OK plan to do. Don't have much choice unless you want to just replace the entire vacuum pump which may be rather expensive.

Wouldn't a Gear Vendors be a better choice? http://www.gearvendors.com/ag4x4.html At least then you could shift of OD on top of the OD of the transmission and drop your RPM's.

Here is my 2002... Bit more dents and wear but still in good shape. Spilled waste engine oil and about 3-4 years of road dust pack up under the liner. The bed liner has about the same amount of wood chips, dog fur, and dirt. Yuk.

Air is long gone by then... I would pull the lines and just blow them out I don't see a reason to replacing them.

Curious... I like to see this explained. Sounds awesome for the older car guys than want a touch of modern transmission abilities.

I really doubt the air bubble angle if you been driving the truck. I would have to come back to a restriction in the supply to the steering box.

As for the ABS light and Brake Light that is a ABS error of some sort. Double check the ABS sensor and be sure they are all 3 plugged in. Then you have to roll forward to clear the codes. The ABS codes are self clearing once the problem is gone. As for the pedal travel you need to bleed the system yet. You have to have a air bubble in the system yet.

Rebuild the calipers yourself for low price or buy fully loaded calipers and pay a premium. If you rebuild yourself you can inspect all thee parts for damage or maybe just debris. So it would be best to at least look at your current calipers full disassembled and check for problems. If the pistons are proper sized they should fall to the bottom of the body without being pushed in. As you'll see there is no seals in the caliper.

You could replace all 4 calipers. Just about 10 times more in cost for a fully loaded caliper. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/CAJLE5298/CAJLE5298_0194578043

Personally I use the cheapest pad I can so not to eat the rotors. As for calipers I rebuild my own and it cost about $8 bucks a caliper to do it yourself. Really simple. As for preventing this you need to do a full tear down of the calipers about every 100k miles and clean and inspect all parts for size, fit and the seals. Simple bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid isn't enough. Caliper pistons typically grow in size with caked brake fluid. It easy to fix and again a full rebuild kit is about $8 bucks a caliper for the few seals.

Oregon is mandated biodiesel state I think B5. Idaho is still a 100% petroleum diesel state. As far as what I know that there is laws that state than if there is change in fuel content it must be stated at the pump.

If its a ABS issue it could be bad tone rings in the bearings which typically will not trip the light all the time. Like my ABS it will back pump the pedal and prevent you from stopping. If vacuum booster it could be a bad diaphragm or seal internally.

OEM and Wells are both electronics based to control thee IVS (Idle Validation Switches) where the Timbo uses a dual contact rheostat which does both functions in one package. Wells APPS still fails because of electronic weakness to AC noise created from failed alternators. Just like OEM APPS which does fail for the same reason. Yes the rheostat does where out too on both OEM and Timbo's but typically that is 5-7 years down thee road. So do you go electronics free, magnetic rheostat (electronic based rheostat and IVS) or the OEM (electronic based IVS) Wells APPS... OEM APPS...

Timbo's... The best APPS you can get that is electronic free.

No. Absolutely not. To hard to find electric rocks in the state let alone an "electric potato" you can buy one and show it to me... Nice to see your getting that truck back into good shape though. You still need to make that 500k mark yet...

Good reason to lift the bed liner and look at the condition of the bed before purchasing the truck...

Oh OK... I'll give you JAG1's spot at the blue spruce tree and the electric rock.

Really impossible to do a VP44 without unplugging the APPS sensor.

For example this truck has been well used and abused... Yeah I was going to do it but I've got the big skirted fender wells and really didn't want to pull them out. I've done that on the 2002 a few times...

I've got to pull the one out of the 2002 here today and clean the bed out well. So I'll get more photos of that one as well. I've seen more damaged truck beds with spray in bed liners like Line-X or Herculiner. I don't know of a single person that lifts object up and puts them down nicely and the picks them back up to unload. I drag stuff in the bed chuck firewood at it everything. Just a few dents in the fender wells. The plastic bed liner flexs just enough to protect the floor from damage and anything you drag out isn't going to hurt the plastic liner much. I've seen spray in liners that have been completely peeled up on the floor from dragging heavy steel object in the bed.

AC noise voltage should be low period. Battery or alternator. The highere either get the more issues will happen like VP44 failures. As for the APPS I would have to agree with TFaoro I'm going to bet the APPS is not plugged in all the way. I've done the same mistake before too.

Ummmm... I'll hang my sign out...

Yesterday I wanted to clean up my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 after hauling a Common Rail engine to Boise, ID to be rebuild. I looked under the bed liner and it was dusty, dirty, etc. So quickly jerk up in the center and released the bead liner and flip it out of the truck and fired up the pressure washer. There was packed sand in the corners, a few good sized rocked in there, leaves, oil and grease, you name it was in there. After a quick rinsing out here is what a 20 year old truck with a bed liner should look like if taken care of. Fender wells have a few dents after a few years of wood hauling in the bed. No rust, and barely even wore through the paint in the ribs of the metal. Now you might be thinking I pull the bed liner all the time to wash the bed out. Sorry but no. This is the first time in like few years I've pull it out. Now with the tonneau cover I still haul trash, and stuff but have to either remove the cover (4 bolts) or folder the rear half forward to throw everything in the bed.

What is funny is re-man'ed steering gear box is what you going to do right now. I'll show you how to make it OEM tight all over again and what to look for wear wise. @Cowboy Thank you for getting the article made quickly...

http://csftl.org/when-to-use-a-locking-clip/ Best I can proved on doing a bit of searching...