Mopar1973Man

We aim to please...

Also it could impact the starter cranking speed enough to prevent starting too.

Funny how a winter front will change that little bit of warm up time and stability of temperature under the hood. I understand what both of you @AH64ID and @Wild and Free are getting at about wind chill. I think in a lot of way both of you right on certain points. Problem is there is so many different factors involving diesel engines and cold environments. Hard to exactly roll heavy equipment and the dodge Cummins in the same roof. I'm sure there is differences in their abilities of cold operation.

If your on the west coast I would of been more than happy to install that beast for you. I know you poor clutch would never make the journey here. I've done plenty of clutch jobs. For the better to let a shop just do it for you. Sit back and enjoy your free time. Then when you feel you broke the disc in enough... I know the Edge Comp is getting turned up.

True. Just like to place that warning out there for other to know as well. The other part of the warning. If the main breaker for some reason was forgotten and you did plug in and the power came back on it could do damage to the generator! Kind of like my Inverter I leave on Sell out mode. So all the extra power I produce is sent back to the city lines. This system has a double fall out system. One is exactly like you said the circuit load would trip the inverter into overload status. Then the other catch the inverter is bound to the city by matching frequency cycles. So as soon as the city frequency drop outside the pre-set limit in the panel the inverter drops the city line like a hot potato goes to inverter mode. I pretty sure I'm set at 55 Hz at a bottom limit.

Kind of like the spruce that's been laying in my yard for almost 2 years now and just about turning rotten / punky. Softwood tend so get punky faster depending on the location it stored also the bred of wood it is too. Creosote level is based on the pitch content also. Like this piece will roll coal by itself. Also noticed I split that piece smaller so it could be used for start wood. Highly flammable and extremely smoky. Again softwood dries very rapidly typically a full summer of 100+ temps it bone dry by fall. All my wood is stored in a cover shed and I usually get the wood gather and split in the shed by late spring. Here is the scraps of this years logs. Still needing to be bucked and split.

It's way seasoned! It was harvested back in April of the year and allowed all summer to cure/season out. Hardwood vs softwood is different too. Softwood has a pitch factor that can be bonus and hindrance. Bonus for getting the fire lit with just a match and no paper. Also can become extremely hot burning rapidly which most will choke down a stove to hold some sort of comfort. Pyrometer of the stove drops too low then the creosote will start to build. So out here its about burning the right wood for the temperature outside. As for drawing in a draft we like a little fresh air once in awhile and been known to open the front door leaving the storm door shut and just sliding the glass pane down one notch. As for moisture and humidity it holds a good 35-40% in the house with normal living, showers, etc. The only time we really tighten up everything temps fall below 0*F which is rare. Heck today its 44*F out and snow is basically gone. So what about a fire place? Hmmm?

All US diesel fuel is rated for ~520 HFRR. Bosch's requirements is...

Ok... Here is the down low. For 6 cylinder high idle its IAT temp of 32*F or lower WITH grid heaters firing. For 3 cylinder high idle its IAT temp of 15*F or lower WITH grid heaters firing. So in other words its got to be a lot colder that 32*F or 15*F out to trigger these modes normally. I would typically see 6 cylinder without a switch with a outside temperature of 25*F or colder and 3 cylinder at 5*F or so.

I'm going to say to check to see if your getting power to the grid heaters. It might have lit the WAIT TO START light but the relay might be having issues. (P0380 and/or P0382). Fusible links corroded off battery terminal or burned out. Contact in the relays good? All this can be checked by looking for power at the grid heater terminals.

Wow! A normal sticks & bricks home its OK to pull from inside? Building codes are all whacked...

It would be best to ditch the cold air intake for the wood stove. Pre-heated air for the wood stove will allow you to throttle back more without creosote issues and you won't have to sweat to death either. (Back fire fighting training) You need to pre-heat your fuel to make the wood burn. This why like house fires and forest fire burn so well in the summer time because all the fuel is pre-heated to 100 plus degrees. Now in the winter time even camp fire have trouble burning because of the cold air taking away pre-heat ability of the fire. More prone to stalling out a fire with cold air. Like ventilating a house fire your pushing the pre-heated air and gasses out so the fire can't spread. So I would pull that cold air intake off the stove and allow the warm inside air to feed the stove works much better!

Even though the P7100 is oil lubricated for the cam inside but the rest of the fuel system is fuel lubricated. There is still lots of metal on metal contact like pintle/needle and nozzle inside the injectors. Your lift pump is fuel lubricated. That's because as cetane goes down the BTU's go up. 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer.

Remember it lubricates everything including injectors and lift pump reducing wear.

I would test with another testvgauge to verify. Most times it's just a sender. There is always the chance its an actual oil pump issue.

Kind of like myself I burn alpine fir and spruce for my mild fuel not as pitchy as red fir. So alpine fir and spruce I can throttle stove back more without ceosote issues. Then now with the cold nights the red fir burns hotter keeping the house toasty.

Living in the mountains of Idaho and I'm getting over 180k out of brake pads on stock 16" brakes. I'd say look towards exhaust before going to 17" inch tires and brakes. Even my 1996 Gasser got quite bit of miles on the brakes still not wore out after all these years. I bought it back 2001. Just to make you all think abit.

LOL. I don't even know the power is gone out. My inverter is so quick to transfer over I don't feel any changes at all. I only lose stove, oven and the drier. Everything else works just fine well. So how I tell if the power is back on I just click the oven time to 0 minutes so it buzzing when the power comes back on. Even transferring back to city power is seamless and don't see any change. I only need the generate more so if days are more cloudy than sunny. Winter time is mostly generator usage being our direct sunlight hours are very limited. So morning we would use the generator for recharging from the night discharge then maybe charge on last time before bed. I've gotten use to living on a 30 Amp service. We learned how to share power for big appliances. Toaster, coffee pot, etc. So when the power does drop there is certain then we turn off and use only when needed. Like water heater that is flipped off at the breaker. Like I said before depends on the reason if it a long term I would fire up the RV for a shower house and such. Temporary outage just turn off the water heater. Oh it converted from 4,500w 220vac to 1,100w 110vac. Much less load.

Just to confirm AH64ID my eight 6V batteries total up to $4,800 for the set. Not cheap. @AH64ID You might to be very very careful with the back feed idea. I know it works but if for some reason the main breaker doesn't open or was forgotten you might electrocute power company worker or cause a serious over load of your generator as it attempts to power the neighborhood. I know this most likely won't happen but always best to error to the side of caution.

As I sit here tonight I'm sitting in my chair with shorts and tee shirt on nearly sweating at 79-82*F inside the house burning Red Fir. No fans needed it just cooking hot most of the time in here. I'm having to throttle back the stove to keep from roasting to death upstairs. Another secret we close down the rooms not used and only heat the living areas we are using. The use the cooled rooms to throttle the temperature in the main living area.

I notice there is small differences between our two clutches.

There is a App for Mobile Devices that you can look up every type of car and it will tell you where the airbags are located as well as the nitrogen cylinders. This was before I had a mobile device so I didn't write down. Now I'm wishing I did.

China made stuff first before USA made don't you know.

That's standard protocol with the fire dept is get to the battery and cut the ground (negative) before attempting to enter or remove a patient from a vehicle. The time frame can be shorten but general rule minimum of 5 minutes and the airbag module should be discharged. 15 minutes is just a better safety stand point for mechanic work and much less chances of it still firing off. I've taken a extrication course in Donnelly ID (certified). I've seen what a airbag can do to people its not pretty.

Pretty simple really. Just unhook the battery and leave the vehicle alone for 15 minutes minimum. The entire airbag system should be disarmed after that. Just make sure no one is inside the vehicle when the batteries are hooked up for safety.