Mopar1973Man

Yeah... He did tow some huge stuff...

$300 is a bit pricey.. Here is where I get mine at... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm Is there going to be a filter only option? Being I would be tossing out the box for the winter time to get warm for the engine when the temps fall well below ZERO.

2006-2007 was the break point for CI-4 to CJ-4 oils. The post for Cajflynn is dated on 2011. So he was using mostly CJ-4 oils on the tall end. The truck rolled 1.3 million miles when the truck's life ended in a traffic accident. From what I know he sold the truck and the new owner is still running that engine. Now I know AH64ID says that long haul use is easier on a engine than daily driver. How much truth there is in that I don't know.

Here is some manufactures of code readers. Standard Plugin Tools http://www.innova.com/ http://www.scangauge.com/ Bosch OBD 1300 | Automotive Pocket Scanner | Code Reader Bluetooth / WiFi Dongles http://www.obdlink.com/ Hoping to add to this list of different devices.

Kind of like the Black Lions HT's I'm running. But I'll run them year round. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html So far really good wear characteristics. Same reasons I went to those as you did to the truck tires. How about the air dam have you seen any improvement wise in the MPG number?

Old CajFlynn did oil changes every 20k miles, Chevron Delo 15w-40, Fleetguard filters, no synthetics, no additves, and cleared over 1 million miles. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/2526-1000000-miles-yet/page-4 TDR57_Oil.pdf

Get a hold of a member here name "Dynamic" he's a transmission expert.

I'm not sure if the compressor oil is compatible with R12. There is a few article I've read about oils being an issues.

Ceramic clutches typically are not a smooth engaging clutch.

Between turbo differences and tires the numbers are going to be different for most here. Lot of stock turbos around here.

Now all you go to do is upgrade that HY35W turbo for HX35W turbo...

Behind the steering wheel. It what connects the air bag, horn and cruise controls to the rest of the truck. The clock spring is a ribbon cable that give connection to these devices. Basically...

So if its fly by wire now I would check the clock spring for good connection. Disconnect the batteries and wait at least 15 minutes to make it safe. (Air Bags). Now you can unplug the clock spring and ohm test each button position. Each button is going to have different ohm values. The PCM detect the different voltages and understand each one as a different function. So if the clock spring is broken or weak connection then the values are screw up and PCM does nothing.

I expect John to be mostly a pavement queen with those tires.

There was some of the manuals with a vacuum motor and some like mine with fly by wire.

Found it... Stock CR timing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4243-smarty-udc/

AH64ID posted up a stock timing map and the stock CR engine are way retarded with most timing AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER.

Smarty timing for CR engines. If you catch up with AH64ID there is more he's posted too.

Here is what I found... KSB unit is the black part on the side with the tube and there is a single blade connector.

Actually VE pump are dynamic as well. But its based off of IAT temp which releases the KSB solenoid on the pump and the timing is controlled by fuel pressure. Crude but it does have some timing. P7100 was one of the only pumps without timing. Then the VP44 was the first electronic controlled pump out for the Cummins ISB (Dodge Trucks).

Neither do I... But I will say it better than the old school P7100 with absolutely no timing at all.

With rolling hills and some flats here in Idaho I typically see 550-600*F at 55 MPH and about 1.5 to 3 PSI of boost. Today temperature max'ed out at 79*F and about 25% humidity.

Timing is checked by both the VP44 and the crank sensor (cam sensor later series). ECM is in control of the timing based on boost for the most part. As boost rises timing retards which is based off the autoignition temperature theory. So at normal atmosphere the ISB typically produces about 400-450 PSI of compression so at 30 PSI of boost it about 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. With those kind of pressure there is a lot of heat so the VP44 can retard timing because it does not need the long amount of time to ignite the fuel. But now on a cold morning at idle the timing will be bumped up to aid in keeping the truck running. Now add about 10 PSI boost pressure you'll hear the timing shift and the rattle goes away which is the VP44 retarding. Optimal timing is when your near zero to 5 PSI of boost. Now the only thing I can't confirm is as you increase RPM I know there is a certain amount of advancement required to fit the ignition into the right window. But again most of us daily drivers don't keep it wound tight at 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. Well maybe some of the 4.10 gear guys do...

Expires on 3rd month of 2016... That what the 03 is month number. Also years are color coded.

I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long over due but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor. Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing. Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room. Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top. So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame. Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts. Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out.