Mopar1973Man

I'll take donations in water just hitch up a trailer and haul it out here.

Like our river. Take a peek at the flow. http://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/uv?site_no=13316500 The little triangles are the normal average flow rate.

About 25 MPH TQ management is released. Even my 5 Speed shows it. Right about 25 MPH there is a fairly big change of power. Smarty will reduce this but only partially. A RadBox will kill TQ management completely but you also lose the gauge cluster.

No. The direction the belt travels. So you would have to figure out a new belt direction and then also most likely have problems with the water pump.

Pretty over zealous huh?

I get all the resistance training I want typically. Push, pull dragging firewood rounds once home to get cut up and then split up and loaded to be stacked up. Plenty bending and stooping. As for weighing myself got a shocker when I weigh fully dress with my utility belt vs. just underwear. I pack at least another 15 pounds just on my pants/belt between flashlight, radio, multi-tool, and my 9mm pistol (when carrying). More resistance training. I kind of wish my old buddy was around yet. We use to head out hiking in the spring of the year when it was cool and walk with our day packs on our back weighing in at another 30 or so pounds plus with my utility belt on too. This was not on a road mind you but just up a mountain for fun.

What a mess DW... Time for some sand bags...

Got it! I found the missing link! Well not that missing link... But why the signature wasn't working...

For the friend yes because I get free freight on parts from the local part store.

My daily problems...

I'd love to have on in my truck just a 5 speed version.

If both batteries are disconnected you must recalibrate the APPS.

Wash it out with water... (Please don't do this it will do damage to a diesel... Just trying to be a bit funny)

Also congrads on 1k posts... But as for stop and go travel I usually look for routes that reduce the amount of stop and go. Even if you can shave off 2-3 stops but add maybe 1 mile you'll still come out ahead. As for hills you'll find that backing off and using 1 gear down typically will gain you slightly more MPG's. Like I know I can climb most all 6-7% grades in 5th no problem but drop to 53 MPH and climb in 4th I normally gain about 1-2 MPG over staying in 5th. I use the feedback from the ScanGauge and the EGT's for gearing choice. So if I can climb the same grade at the same speed but 4th (1:1 ratio) is 150-200*F cooler in EGT's typically the MPG are just slightly better. Kind of like riding a bicycle. Yo can ride a bicycle in top gear on flat ground but still climbing a small hill you feel the amount of power you must put out to continue. Same holds true for the truck if you can slow slightly and grab a gear down the load is lessen and MPG's improve typically.

Rather odd just gave them a call as well and it only a BLM restriction along the US95 area from New Meadows toward Grangeville. It not a USFS yet. The gent I talk said this coming week it might change again dues the dryness in the area. But he did mention the Yes Payette USFS did post the sign and yes the fire restriction are imposed current in my area. (Zone 4). Give it time it will change again. As far as I can say even my Fire Chief is held to the Stage II restrictions as well.

Might check again Payette has the No Fires LED sign up in Payette forest with the sandwich board there too. Right at the top of smokey Boulder Mile post 171 roughly. Nez isn't till Pinehurst.

Different issue. Low freon is at the other side of the spectrum. As freon pressures drop on the lo side the the temperature continues to drop below freezing point which the lo side switch cut off the compressor. The lo side switch is designed to prevent freeze up of the evaporator. So you need to add freon to bring the lo side pressure above 30 PSI typically charge to 35-40 PSI to get a solid locked compressor and a system that is sweating. Typically with lo freon you'll also see low hi side pressures as well like 100-120 PSI which isn't enough pressure to work the orifice tube. About 200-250 PSI is about optimal for our trucks depending on temperatures of course. But to be bumping the high side switch is because you heated all the freon above normal like in my case in a hot shop, door closed and hot engine warming everything up. Then start the truck and have a unlocked fan and pumping freon till it overheats and no longer can stay with hi side limits and start venting. (>450 PSI).

What coolant temps are you running? How about boost and EGT's?

Now you understand the feedback I use to gaining MPG's. Now if you set up the Scangauge II to display MPG, current MPG for the day and Current MPG for the tank then you can see the effects in all worlds. Also toss IAT up and watch the effects of IAT vs. MPG.

Correction. Need to see above 1000*F to burn carbon off.

I just ran into this problem but I'm pretty sure I know what happen in my case. What had happened was I made a trip to town and put my truck back in the shop and closed the door. Wasn't but a short time later I get a call to do firewood hauling. I pulled the truck out and set the A/C for MAX A/C and proceeded on hitching up the trailer. I start noticing the compressor pulling really hard on the engine and cycling rapidly. Thought that was odd I got back in the truck the vents were blow warm air. Compressor still cycling. Then I head the compressor struggle and then started venting freon. I knew then what was going on I shut down the A/C and left it off till I was rolling. I did open the hood and look and the fan was FULLY UNLOCK and barely turning. So what has happen the freon was preheated and pressure were to high and kicking out on the high side pressures till it got so high it was venting to protect the system (around 450 PSI). After I was on my way and got coolant up to temp and the fan was partial locked now the A/C worked just fine the rest of the day. So now experiencing this and seeing post in the past about warm A/C at stops I wonder if the fan is not properly locking and keeping air moving and the high side is shutting it down. Another possible occurrence is using Quickie Can with the hose included those typically have a oil charge with them and it possible to over charge with too much oil causing that problem. I've seen where condenser coils are so packed with bugs that air doesn't flow and freon temperatures and pressure sky rocket. Like today I took the time and fired up the pressure washer and slowly worked my way across the condenser, intercooler and radiator being careful not to get to close to the coolers.Today again it reached a 100*F here at my house. So keeping radiators, intercoolers and condensers cleaned is priority. So if your fan clutch is not locking properly to keep air flow moving the condenser will for sure get too hot and drive the high side pressure to trip the high side switch. So think air flow when the A/C is getting warm at stops.

Check this out rather cool.

This picture might be listed as a bit border lined... Click show button to see...

No joke. Pun intended...