Dieselfuture

My fass 150 didn't come with a pre-filter, must be something they started doing recently. I was under assumption that fuel goes through first big filter/water separator before it enters gear rotor/pump then goes through final 2 micron filter before it heads to vp.

Yeah I kinda cut it in time before it was in pieces, had cracks but nothing broke yet. I can't see myself putting a puzzle together. If it was all busted, I'd probably get a new one and from what I read I'd go with lmc. That day is coming but I might try some type of leather over top yet with glue. That fiberglass actually reduced the engine sounds just a little, enough to notice but not enough to do it for fun.

This was my temporary fix, still using it for a moment, got more cracks since but none of it has fallen in yet.

You can take sensor out and see the ring with teeth. Maybe stick a flat screw driver in the hole and rotate the hub. If you can hold ring in one place while spinning the hub you need new bearings. If they are original they have plastic races and could lock up at some point if they get hot. Most of them didn't come with enough grease, some people put extra grease through sensor hole, some put a grease zirk in and grease them that way with sensor out of the hole so extra pressure/grease won't blow seals out. Don't overgresse need some air space in there too. Look at the sensor when you pull it out make sure it's not damaged by the teeth, if it is don't bother putting a new sensor in, bearings are wore and have enough play to hit the sensor. I've been fighting ABS brake light come and go for a few years, ended up being sensor in the rear end. I have Timken bearings that I got through RockAuto.

Was it dirty before you installed it, how long did you have the truck. Mine came with that pos k&n and I used it for first year because I didn't know any better. My turbo also had some dirt on it, then I got BHAF and cleaned the turbo as good as I could and it stayed clean afterwards. Maybe clean it and get BHAF and see what happens before doing any turbo work. On normal use these holset turbos last a very long time some have way over 500k Looking at your picture is kind of hard to tell, it does look like a seal may be leaking if so you'd want to get it fixed asap, at same time if you had oiled filters on there and there is no shaft play it may be just junk from the filter. Btw even my new turbo has some shaft play up and down, that's normal, in and out should be 0 by feel.

Do you have a k&n filter or any other air filter that is lubed?

All good points above, I would also check alternator for ac noise and clean all grounds. Could be something damaged in abs module making it not function properly. I would also flush power steering fluid and might as well flush break fluid. Make sure all air is out of both systems. See what happens. You can also rebuild your own calipers pretty cheap and easy, same goes for hydro boost if needed, power steering pump I'd get new if possible and needed. Pedal being hard tells me something isn't letting fluid through. There is a little screen on pressure power steering side, when you undo the hose you can unscrew the fitting to pump, there will be a spring in there that may jump out and little piston with screen on it. iirc

May want to throw your old stuff under the back seat for a while till you put few miles on these new ones. When I changed my boots that's what I did too and they're still under the seat now ha ha, never know.

At idle ecm is in full control unless you over adjust the tps which sounds like you got 1/4 to 1/2 turn backed off, it should be fine. Do you have a way to see data coming from tps as you're driving to see what % it is and if it randomly drops a signal? Engine may idle different then others you see depending mostly on how wore out the injectors are and/or pop pressure. There is a whole thread on this here somewhere. Have you done WT mod and went through wiring mostly grounds on your truck, these trucks have lots of gremlin problems with lose wires. Best I to go through it all. They used crimp/glue connections in main wiring harness in multiple places, wt mod takes care of some of them. Alternator ac noise is another problem on these trucks that will take out electronics with time if not taken care of. And no you can not use Harborfreight multi meter for testing ac noise, need something more accurate like fluke. I don't think it's timbo apps, although I heard of people claiming they had a bad one before. But 2 in the row, idk. Keep checking things and look into what I mentioned if you haven't already.

I also used a pice of rubber hose longer then 90 and route it so it doesnt kink

Have you tried hot wiring a motor to see if it does anything

I use fleetguard concentrate just cause I get about same deal as walmart through work depending on who's behind counter most of Cummins staff is rather retarded, few decent guys yet. https://shopcummins.com/products/fleetguard-es-compleat-eg-premix-50-50-1-gal-cc2825?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=dbu-cssna-shopcummins-us&variant=24186626015332&sfdr_ptcid=30694_4_485526458&sfdr_hash=bf5e779327e99ebafa7dff192599039b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4v_XhPDM5gIVhsDACh0y6wtLEAQYASABEgJSk_D_BwE

Get the vent mode done, then check for vacuum leaks

Honestly I don't know what I was cleaning, I just know it had some junk there blocking air flow and coincidentally the heater core started to leak shortly after.

People like you is what makes the difference in this world among others on this site

Every saved penny in corporate world counts, them bastards are working for bonus checks. The incentive anymore is not longevity, it's cost cutting for fatter bonus checks. It's probably been this way for a long time but now they don't care about crossing the line.

You can pull blower motor off and get a lot of junk out away from heater core, if you're flexible you can use a rubber hose on a vacuum cleaner and suck it clean for the most part. I had good luck doing it, but of course had to take dash apart not long after to change heater core as it developed a tiny pin hole at the bottom and I was smelling antifreeze. Maybe junk at bottom is what was keeping it from leaking.

What do they have to say on your issue? I'm not a wiring guru, but if that's the pin to do a hot wire test on it would think it should be used to make vp run when ecm commands it. Can that pin be pushed in too far in the plug? Has anyone else worked on the truck or it just quit running one day. 98 meaning 98.5?

I've heard of the plug not the back side of cluster working itself lose, easy to check. Maybe pull it out and plug it in again.

Weird, many have used ECM as a trigger for a relay for a long time even before protective relay. Many have gotten away with running directly of the ECM itself. Who are you getting your ecms from.

Not sure on wiring, what I have done in passed on cab support on ld chevy if there isn't much there to weld to or you don't feel like doing lots of work right now. I've cut the existing one out with whatever means and used a 4x6 block instead,then drill a hole all the way through the floor and shove a long bolt through wood and mount. Not the prettiest but works. Other than that all you can do is cut grind weld crape etc, till you like it. I'm not looking forward to doing mine someday as its getting worse every year. I need rockers, cable corners, fenders, probably cab mounts, new bed etc. I thought about letting it go for as long as I can and then swap the cab and maybe build my own bed. Maybe less work in long run. Good luck ether way.

I know it all comes from rednecks, I remember friend of mine using a vacuum cleaner in his Chevy cavalier with 3.4l to get it go faster, it seemed to work at low rpm, all he needed was to add a turbo