mulcher812

well do you still have the APPS sensor? If so I think i would check voltage to it also.

i think the only thing I have seen is a ceramic coating that is paint-able or you can have it dipped in the color you want.

I run the Rancho 5000 all the way around and they have been great. They currently have about 40k on they still feel great on and off the road.

T its truly up to you. Your the one that has knows your driving habits and your the one that knows your truck.... If it were me I know I have the fuel pressure to feed the VP, I know I like the added performance, And If I know that it may void the warranty its my fault and I can be liable for the replacement of if.

Hey Skelly can you fill out your sig so we can see what kind of truck and mods you have. It would be cool to compare your rig to my rig in my sig as I also have a 99 24v.

I think I have 1/4" straight fittings also. I know I don't have a needle valve but I think the smallest one if have seen is 1/4"

I use 1/4" tubing to my mechanical gauge in the cab and have had a problem with any of it. I have a lot of it if you need some just let me know.

This is the reason that the high HP guys look to use things like water/meth to help the cooling and expansion of the compressed air we put into the cylinder.

now that is what you call an equal length header that is designed to flow as much as you can put through the cylinder. Making the restriction the turbine housing...

If you are worried about the block having issues then it would be worth looking into. I have the 53 block and I'm not sure what I would do if it cracked. I know that one person on here has the 57 block and it has cracked.

I know the DAP injectors are all bosch injectors and they are all flow matched. If i known about DAP when i bought mine they would be DAP injectors.

You don't want to get that big with out doing some sort of twins. The reason is your exhaust drives your boost pressure. So if you have a 16cm exhaust housing then there is no boost pressure. A lot of guys do a drive pressure reading and figure out what it is with the stock setup and do the math from there to get the right boost pressure to exhaust pressure. The most ideal is a 1:1 rotio.

rseabur - if you take the turbo off and look inside the exhaust housing on the engine side where it mounts to the exhaust manifold there are #'s on the inside of it. This will tell you if its the same as your HY turbine housing. If it is what are the #'s of both housings? volkswagon - the HX/HY turbo series use the same housings just different sizes 12cm - 14cm - 16cm this is the half the size of the discharge turbine. they all have the same bolt pattern on the back side and they can all be interchanged.

some of the 99's had battery temp sensors under each battery. If they short out they will not let the alternator charge either, but I would start with the alternator.

The only way i know of testing a fan clutch is to block of the air going through the radiator with the engine up to temp. I have used a large piece of cardboard to cover the entire front of the radiator. If the fan clutch is working properly you will hear a change in the sound of the fan at 210 degrees. that is where the fan should go into lock mode with the reduced airflow and heat on the engine.

With the Glows#!% gauges I would say its the sender also... they really dont have the best fuel gauges.

I run my HX on 2x5 with my smarty on 6 and towing a 28.5 tailer at 12000lb mine will get up to 1100 but that's it on 6% grade.

I run the Diamond eye myself didn't see a drop in EGT's but I like the fact that they are made in Oregon just outside of Prineville and it sounds great.

True I but with out a press

If your old injectors had more nozzles then you could have a set of upgraded tips in stock bodies...did you have your old ones pop tested?

So yes the fan clutch is left hand thread. You will have to remove it before you remove anything else. The fan shroud will need to come off with the flan and clutch assembly then the 6 10mm bolts from the belt pulley. Once off there are 4 10mm bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the block. Remove those and you will see the bearing on the back side. I have not been able to replace one with out a press though. You may be able to use a C-clamp or a bench vise to squeeze it out??? not sure but it goes back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

Do you have a picture of the valve body showing what port gets blocked off?

Man it takes me 3.5hrs to do injectors and a valve adjustment on the ones I work on. I think the hardest part is turning the alternator and watching the timing marks at the same time.

Thanks for the info Volkswagon I'm leaning towards the mod and just try it out to see how it works pulling the trailer. I kind of figured get it moving along and then kick it in but I just don't want to start destroying $$$

I would have to agree with everyone else edge comp and injectors just don't go over 75hp with the stock turbo. That setup should put you where you want to be.