Buzzinhalfdozen

So Russia is going to make it cold and snowy this winter? I say bring it on!

Based on what you've checked and replaced I wouldn't think it's a driveline/suspension issue. You should start looking at weird things like: Loose or cracked crossmembers. Broken spot welds on the cab mounts or floor boards. Steering column bushing. Lift pump dangling by the fuel lines and banging against the frame. It happens... Spare tire banging around, sound can travel in strange ways. Full coverage and a well planned fire. Something rolling around under the seat. Sometimes we overlook the simple things!

Very cool project keep us updated. I actually saw an old Travelall rotting away in a tree row a few months ago and had fantasies of doing the same thing.

I have my old carter pump sitting behind the seat in a bag. It's been there for 5 years and never needed it. There's also a first aid kit, fire extinguisher and a random assortment of other things that I've never used. Better to have it and not need than need it and not have it.

Are you planning on using it on your Dodge? My first concern would be if you catch something solid it'll bend or break easily with the weight of the cummins behind it. It looks to be best suited for a Jeep or light duty pickup. I know a few people that had similar plows and they work ok but were frustrating to use, mainly because they are all manual adjustment. For that kind of money you can get a pretty nice power angle straight blade set up. Yes they are harder to take off and on but it's going to be way way nicer to plow with. Just my opinion you know what's going to work best for you.

The best answer I have.

I've had good luck with Ingersoll Rand.

I guess I'm not getting it either Katoom. In the original diagram the ecm is supplying power through a relay straight to a fuel pump. Then when you hit the key the relay opens and kills power to the fuel pump, but isn't that exactly what the ECM does anyways? I guess to make this work and take load off the ECM you'd have to run 87 from relay #1 to 86 of another relay that's powered from the battery. But at that point wouldn't it be easier to just wire like @IBMobile suggested and just use one relay? Maybe if the "power off while cranking" function of the ECM wasn't working you could wire it like the first diagram but at that point your just using the ECM as a hot in run power source.

Since W&F brought up proper pipe tape wrapping procedure, I'll throw in a tip grampa taught me when I was a kid. Hold the fitting in your left hand with the threads looking at you and wrap the tape clockwise. Works every time! Pretty basic I know but it stuck with me over the years.

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Looks good. Any reason why they didn't check caster?

These rigs are pretty capable in stock form for mild off-road use. For what you want to do a good set of all terrain tires and a limited slip or locking rear differential will take you far enough down a trail to get some thrills. Don't forget about some basic recovery gear just in case. A good come-a-long, recovery straps, a small jack and a 12 volts air compressor got me out of the woods more than once.

It sounds like you're on the right track. On the drain valve I would suggest capping it off when not in use or even taking the handle off just so it can't accidentally get opened.

I've seen "organic" brake pads before but that's taking it a little to far. How many mouse power=1 horse power?

The first thing I would do is pull the door panel and and verify power at the window motor. If you have + and - at the motor then blow all the dirt out of it and give it a few thumps to see if it comes back to life. If no power then time to start working your way back and find the open wire. The new switch could also be faulty seeing as the passenger window died too. It's wired through the drivers switch so I'd try the old switch before tearing to much apart.

http://car-part.com/mobile/index.htm I use this site quite a bit.

ATF is a pretty old school "additive" Plenty of guys used to dump anything and everything in the tanks of old IDI diesels. Waste oil, ATF, basically anything petroleum based. But I guarantee it wasn't doing anything good for the engine vs. just straight fuel. So so one guy claims to have "fixed" an injector immediately after adding some ATF and a few haven't noticed any ill effects while running it... Won't make me a believer. Heck I could take a piss in the tank at every fill up and not notice any ill effects.

I would say the door is off. You can adjust them some by loosening the door to hinge bolts (not the hinge to body bolts) but be warned they can be a royal pain to align. To get all the gaps right and the door latch lined up is frustrating. Unless the hinges are completely worn out there might be a reason it's aligned the way it is. Not trying to scare you off but I have hours into aligning panels on mine. Trace around the hinges before you start so have a good reference line to go off of.

So what we have learned from all this is make an "ultimate turd tune" for when it's parked or buy a powerstroke with weak head gaskets and they won't make it very far.

Maybe the Phillapino president isn't such a wack job. He says to the people take up arms and kill the drug dealers... In a month 3,000 dead 16,000 arrested 700,000 self surrendered and the drug supply cut by 90%. This is extreme and I'm sure a lot of the killings were unjustified, just makes me wonder... If a few more dealers, thieves and other forms of low life scum of the earth were getting shot maybe people would think twice about taking up these professions. Sorry for the de-rail I just hate hearing about good people getting their lives turned upside down by some pos looking for a quick buck.

I did the "electrical tape cover light mod". It has been working flawlessly for years. I could whip up an article on it if anyone is interested.

Another option to consider. You can get a control arm with bushings already installed for around $50 a piece. Then through whatever matter of destruction you prefer cut the control arm out around the bolt. You just have to get to the inner sleeve of the bushing and heat it up with a torch and it should work loose.

Have you checked for boost leaks? I had a small tear in a boot that made a pretty hilarious squeeling sound at the right psi.

I tried the stock center caps but mine are pretty beat up and didn't look right. No hitchhiking goats yet they tend to scatter pretty fast when I fire up the ol hammer mill.