Buzzinhalfdozen

Goat tacos for dinner if she went after my Alcoas.

A good reason not to own goats.

Yes the washer should be pointing straight forward like this. Even when brand new they are tough to move, there's a lot of weight on those adjusters. I've found if you jack up the truck by the frame you'll find a sweet spot where it's easier to turn.

Yes the front bolt on the lower control arm. The oval adjuster washer thing should be pointing at your front bumper. I don't know how many degrees you'll end up with but adjust both sides evenly and it won't matter.

Honestly the best thing I did for driveability is max out the caster adjustment. "In spec" caster is like 2.5-4 degrees but these rigs need as much as they can get which is about 7*. Best part is it's free but can be time consuming if the adjusters are rusted up.

Mine will pretty much return all the way to center but doesn't necessarily hold center on the highway if that's what you're referring to. It wants to drift in the lane which is normal for these rigs. Have you checked or adjusted the caster setting? That has more to do with return to center than anything else.

@dripley yes mine has a rubber 90* elbow on the ac drain. It hangs down about an inch.

Holy Fahrvergnügen! So what is that a good 10 mpg over stock? Explain to me how dpf, scr, egr, and a little horse piss are "Green"

Wow I've never seen anything that dark come out of a cooling system. So what did it look like after a few days of running before the thermocure?

So the ball joints and track bar aren't bad? How are you checking them? I'm surprised they didn't show you the loose joints while it was on a lift.

To move the adjustment sleeves you really need one of these. A pipe wrench will pinch the sleeve down making it harder to move. These open up the sleeve some while you're turning it and makes it so much easier.

Sounds like a backing plate is bent and rubbing on the rotor.

Looks like how most of my projects go.

I believe it's 8oz of the friction modifier.

I have a blue top rebuild in my 68 F100 and very happy with the quality. Borgeson... I won't buy another one. For what they cost it's nothing special.

They are re-treads but it's a much different process then the typical glue and stick you see on semi tires.

Just to stir the pot a bit... My car hauler has a 10,000 pound gvwr. The LRD tires it came with have a 2,540 pound rating which gives me a tire capacity of 10,160 pounds. So basically I have to keep them at the max psi on the sidewall (65psi). Tires have higher miles by trailer standards. Trailer is typically loaded at or near the GVWR. 65+ mph for hours at a time. No flats that weren't self induced. Not trying to tell anyone how to run their equipment just sharing my experience.

Must be different on the 4 wheel abs models. Pulled the fuse on my rear wheel abs and speedo/cruise works fine just dash lights on now.

Just pull the ABS fuse. I did a year ago on mine.

Yes sir. Plenty of open water camping space and cold beverage to go around.

Gets it from his mom, defiantly not my fugly mug. Yep one of three boys...just turned two. Does his best to throw them all in. Would do this all day everyday if he could. Just gotta get her out on the big lake reeling in salmon and lake trout. She'll never want to go back.

Just throwing rocks in the biggest fresh water lake on earth.

I'll try to break down what TFaoro is saying. First make sure you have some adjustment left on the drag link adjuster. Don't need much, a few turns rotates the steering wheel quite a bit. Set the tires pointing straight, pop off the steering wheel off and put it back on straight. You can fine tune it with the drag link adjuster. If you're only moving the wheel a few splines it shouldn't bother the clock spring. It wont mess with the turns lock to lock, that's all in the steering gear box. Only possible issue I can see is I thought the wheel was indexed so you can only put it on every 90*, kind of like a pitman arm.