Cowboy

Couldn't someone just modify a junk injector, get a gauge and be good to go? Or does the displacement of the injector/gauge screw things up?

Hazing at idle could be caused by injectors or a larger DV. Are you sure it's diesel and not oil? Check for a slight amount of air in your fuel. Sometimes it will go unnoticed, but results in a slight drop in power and MPG's, slower throttle responce, and a haze.

Lookin good! Didn't realize you were pushing that many ponies!

Very Cool! Glad to hear you about your results. You don't appear to be running any sort of snubbed for your pressure gauge, and you're not having any pulsation issues? With the 90* going into the Injector pump, I had mine like that for a while, then found that it was rubbing against the throttle linkage, so I replaced it with a 45*. Just something to check.

Mine will go into red, and I have about 50 miles left. haha Whoops, apparently there was more then one page.

Like JOHNFAK says, Drive pressure isn't crazy high with the 351CW, It is a little higher then the HX35. You may not need a new hot side pipe, some have been able to twist the stock pipe and just use a 45* 3" to 2.5" reducer.

The HAKKO is a nice unit. If I was going to shell out over $50, I'd jump straight to it. I normally just solder wires and Through hole stuff. So I make due with my cheapy. But if I ever do any serious soldering, especially SMD, I'll just buy it.

I'm not much of a Gamer either, but when I have one of those day where you just need to kill someone, I'll go on http://warmerise.com/pages/RedvsBlue

The ratio cruising heavily depends on RPM's Sub ~1600-1700 RPM, boost is higher. Then it goes to about 1.1:1 Drive Pressure:Boost. The Stock turbo seems to like 1800-2000 RPM, I can build 30 psi, while maintaining pretty close to 1:1. Once the wastegate opens, all bets are off. I would really like to get some towing data, so I can have a more sustained load.

10% is kinda stiff. That is basically where the stock turbo sits. Anyone that is running an HE351 is seeing a heck of a lot more. The problem is the tight exhaust housing trying to get it to spool at low RPM's. The DP on cylinders 1-3 just about hit 60 psi at 35 psi boost. That is because I'm only wastegating 4-6. I have an idea I've been wanting to try for years. The goal, fast spooling and low drive pressure. Here's a 4th gear from a roll. Before the most resent round of mods. I am very happy with my boost governor. Clicking the image will make it bigger.

I'm surprised your IAT's are so high. At 72 MPH, I run around 180* before the IC, and about 85* After (sensor in the intake horn). Ambient temp was about 80*. Boost is 8-10 and I forget EGT's.

Well it's been a while.... So:

I use cheap soap, slides on nice, dries slow, and sticks pretty well.

Yeah, not bad. Are these numbers hand calculated or from the dreamometer?

Very interested, I happen to be in need of a new filter with a 5" flange. Could one get around this issue by drilling the divider?

I live 8 miles outside a city with the population of ~328 lol. I went to the city for the weekend, and don't miss the trafic at all. Though, trying to follow the flow of traffic while merging and at stop lights with an NV4500 was kinda fun. lol

Thought I'd bring this back up, here's one of the latest datalogs I got, it's 4th gear from a roll, the first hump in data around 1150 RPM is a user mistake, the second around 1800 rpm is likely my clutch slipping. Also, the pre and post IC temps are "stepped" because I only read them every second or so. Click the image to make it bigger.

This is while lugging it at 1200 rpm. The explanation is simple. The turbine runs off exhaust volume, heat is artificial exhaust volume, if you have enough heat, the turbine will get enough energy out of the exhaust to drive the compressor without the need of as much back pressure. Turbos have the possibility of running more boost then drive pressure easily. The problem is we want quick spooling and high flowing... so the turbine is setup for the higher RRM's while the housing is sized for the lower RPMs. I was looking at some dyno logs earlier, a 2000+ hp engine was making 90 psi of boost on a single turbo with 70 psi of drive pressure, EGT's were sub 1200 (I'm sure they had plenty of water injection).

When I say 1.4:1, I meant 10 psi boost, 6 psi drive pressure. I read the pressure from the front runner. The wastegate on mine doesn't start to open until exactly 35 psi, or 33 psi at the intake plenum.

I just realized this is not true, this would rule out the drive pressure adding "artificial" heat to the exhaust, however with DP comes Boost. So if you have the same amount of heat, with more boost (flow) there is overall more heat energy going into the exhaust. I went on a trip here this weekend, and found two interesting facts. 1st, it is crazy easy to hit 1.4:1 Boost:DP with the stock turbo, just lug the crap out of it at 1200 RPM. Otherwise boost is about 1:1.1 throughout the RPM range/load. 2nd, the IC works crazy well, engine input temps going down the highway are maybe a couple *F above ambient, while the pre-intercooler temps are steady at 170-200*F.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/exide-heavy-duty-farm-battery-hp31e Plenty of cranking amps and pretty easy on the back pocket.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=17

So, what are some of your favorite tips n tricks you've found over the years? Things that help make your life just a little bit easier. I'll add more as I think of them. But to start it off. When you have a chunk of plastic tubing/fitting that broke off at the threads, and you need to get it back out. Use a sickle blade, it works stinking slick.

Nice article! I'm tempted to go check mine. I've got an issue with sparatic shifting, failed shifts, gear hunting, grinding, and extreme bucking at times. Due to it being a NV4500, I don't think it's the alts fualt lol.

There is a guy that sells these things for a lot of money, the people that buy them have no idea how to program them. What Nick has done here, is provide a parts list of everything you need, plus supply the code, so all you have to do is plug the ardiuno into your computer and upload the code, which is insanely simple with their newest update. And what someone with a little programming knowledge could do, is put all the important stuff that one may want to change on one page, so if someone who doesn't know how to program wants to make tweaks, all he has to do is tweak the values on that page, and re-upload. I will say though, I am shying away from the VGT, only reason is I have a turbo idea from years ago I still want to try.