CTcummins24V

Any reason to replace the pitman arm on a 4x4? Threads are nice and there's no play when everything is attached. I'm replacing the gear box, for the 3rd time, finally with a borgeson and figured I should just the replace the pitman arm as well. The other issue is that after upgrading to the 3rd/4th gen "T" steering, the pitman arm to drag link tie rod came out pretty easy without using a puller. I don't know if the pitman arm could wear at that connection.

Last summer I installed some 7x.009 (100hp) VCO injectors and have only put a couple thousand miles on them, slight upgrade from my previous 60hp VCOs. I have been getting a really loud pinging/panging when the the torque converter is locked and under load. Doesn't happen in 1st or 2nd gear and it clears up around 2000rpm when the turbo is really flowing. It's definitely coming from the motor. Anyone experience this? I was reading about pre detonation and it sounds like it. Only happens under good throttle and almost always up hill under load. Any thoughts?

1. LMC Dash, bezel and front grille. Fit and quality are great. There is a slight color difference but still looks great! Special thanks to TBO for installing it for me!

When your 47re takes a dump, swap to a manual. I really hate my transmission. Low stall triple disc and towing valve body make for terrible driving around town at low throttle, as ME stated. Drives great on the highway and anywhere over 45mph. Lately I have been dropping it into 2nd going through town and it just feels like little power is getting transferred to the wheels, slushbox. I think I need an nv4500 or a lock up switch. If you do a rebuild in the future, I would stay away from low stall converters and go with a stock stall or just under. My super b turbo is super laggy off the line with my current torque converter. The stock transmission drove and felt better than my built tranny, just my 2 cents. If you end up doing injectors, you will probably have to upgrade your valve body to hold the power.

I want to say energy but I can't remember. The other one out there is prothane

Super easy to install, just like you said. Good idea to sand blast and powder coat bushing plates to avoid future rust and treat the cab mounts also. They do stiffen things up, then again this truck has always ridden like a tank. Rubber is more flexible and forgiving, in regards to ride quality. I replaced mine because of squashing, an 1" difference on some. OEM rubber is expensive, aftermarket only has poly.

I had one sidewall crack and some cupping, but I had worn parts up front. I won't get 55,000 miles out of them. They're functional

There will be some disassembly of the old part to transfer onto the new part. The mounting bracket, spring and star wheel thing. I spent the money on a NAPA reman unit, if I could do it again I would just rebuild it myself.

Looks like you have aftermarket rims with less backspacing. If you're going to replace everything, might as well do the 2010 "T" style upgrade.

retap it for larger bolts

Do you have a mechanic friend? Need the $10,000 snap on code reader for this one, or the dealer and pay $80-$100.

My mother had a priest come over to bless the house we are renting. He said there are 3 things that are leading to America's downfall. Godlessness, fatherlessness and joblessness. Hits the nail on the head.

Determine if your bearing is shot first. Disconnect the steering shaft and shake the steering column in the engine bay for movement. I did the bushing upgrade, but my bearing wasn't that far gone, so it didn't gain much by replacing it. The steering gear box seems to be the biggest issue for me. I've gone through a redhead and a local remaned box. A borgeson is in the works for this summer.

My wife and I just had our first born today! Our son Gabriel! It's amazing!

All great replies! I think it's safe to say most of us have a live and let live policy. But what's going on in our country today is so wrong on so many levels. It's very simple, the more laws and regulations are passed, the more our liberties and freedoms are taken away.

I just upgraded to the 2010 "T" style linkage the other week on my 2001.5(4 wheel disc brake). Simple, eliminates bump steer, but it revealed my gear box is shot. The 2010 linkage will only fit 17" rims or taller, or aftermarket 16" rims with aggressive back spacing. I have aftermarket 16" rims with 4.5" backspacing. The tapers were the same on my truck. Also, you may run out of room on centering the steering wheel on a stock height truck. I have plow prep cols which lifted the front end about an 1". With that, the adjusting sleeve only had one more turn before the threaded tie rods were hitting in the sleeve.

I did dana spicer on the 01' last year and they didn't have zerks

I want an idle/driving video! Those old 12 valves sound awesome!

rockauto Part NumberPart TypePrice EACore EAQuantityTotal2010 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 6.7L L6 DIESEL TurbochargedMOPAR52122362ALTie Rod End$ 291.79$ 0.001$ 291.79Discount $ -14.59ShippingGround$ 32.99Order Total $ 310.19 May be able to find it cheaper. This kit does NOT inlcude the nuts for tie rods, damper or pitman arm.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Chrysler_Jeep_Clips_Fasteners_Retainers_s/66.htm

All sound preference. I swapped 4" for a 5" just for the sound. I blame it on the commonrail that lived on my road. Every week I could hear/feel that truck coming up the hill near my house. 5" is deeper sounding, more drone if you don't use a resonator. Youtube the sounds if that's a factor. Muffler and resonator if you want to avoid drone, without compromising sound.

Yes, injectors will help, just can't go too big or your tranny will take a dump. If you need new injectors anyways, upgrade to the rv275s or a 50HP injector.

under 50 mph= OD off, or 3rd. Over 50 consistently, OD or 4th. Sometimes I'll run at 2200 rpm in 3rd just to keep from lugging the engine or shifting back and fourth between 3rd and 4th. Lately I've been dropping the selector into 2nd when going through the center of town because there's so much gas-brake, the transmission unlocks every time you take your foot off the gas. Manual transmission is the best option. These auto dodges aren't made for daily driving. My truck shifts differently when there's a load behind the truck or in the bed.

Were you blowing some serious smoke? Lost all your bottom end power due to laggy turbo?