Killer223

i know you have done a compression test. but i still think there is a cracked/broken ring.

i might be way off here, and may have missed it. but don't the cross over tubes have some sort of screen in them? maybe one plugged? won't a cracked ring do this as well?

they don't have the ones i built, it bolted to the license plate. and you had a 3.5 screen. still have one in the package. now the one i like is the rearview camera one for 300. http://www.vizualogic.com/products/backup-safety-assist/3-5-inch-mirror-monitor.html the ones in the 06-08 toyotas were my design, as well as the scion XB. might check bestbuy for a cheaper option.

vizualogic used to make a good one. i designed it. i'll see if i can dig up a link.

then why not apply the old theory that a dirty filter filters better? why change the filter every 7500 and not just drop the oil and change that? what am i missing?

that's what i was reading and made me change my oil yesterday. i did notice the start up is quieter. this is what my manual tell me. This filter has a sort of bypass built in. will it really be worth it? idk, do we really use the other normal filters to their full potential? i'm not sure either.? how does one know if their filter is "full" and is opening the bypass valve?

i think it was 27 n some change at local Napa, only place that had the synthetic VPB. he has gallons of AMSoil at 33. next time that's what i'll run.

awesome Mike. i can't wait for the snow. i love winter time. i do miss the Idaho winters though. Living here in Arizona leave a little to be desired. but we still have a good bit at times. they calling for 10-14" in the coming week.

well had to change the oil, My OCD wouldn't let me keep it past the 7500 miles. we have a big snow storm on it's way and i didn't want to be changing it in the mud if the sample came back it need to be changed. i sent off an oil sample. pending it's results maybe this next oil will last longer. the oil was still very slippery between the fingers. i know it still had life but how much i'm not sure. i await the results. i went with Valvoline Premium blue 5/40 synthetic. changed the fuel filters as well. i drained the bowl into a mason jar, no water or dust that my eyes could see anyhow. will let it set for a day or so with lid on tight.

about the one minute mark.

i run normal Valvoline 10/40. every time i run synthetic in it the front main seal leaks as does the oil pump. normal dino, no leaks. i'm running this filter because it stated right on it extended service lube filter. i will do on the sampling interval you suggest though. i'm not able to fin the the rating for 15000 mile intervals. my manual states A at 3750 and B as 7500. the Valvoline oil i am looking for is the 15/40 classic. it's still the CI+ oil. not the newer CJ oil. according to the website they still make it. if the ams oil would be about 130$ or better. however if they are worth the extra coin and last longer i'll gladly spend it. i'm shooting for 10K+ drains. the oil i use now VPB doesn't even start to darken till about 6500 miles. even now at 7300 its not BLACK, it's darkened some but not charcoal black like what comes out of the tractors.

in my owners manual it tells me i can run 15/40 down to zero deg, and to run 5/40 syn for below 0 temps. it also says the drain intervals are the same for both dino and synthetic. so i'll more then likely stick with around 10K changes with the newer filter. if i go back to the 16035 then i'll really check out the 7500-10K change intervals. i'ma send off a sample monday that i'm take tomorrow with 7306 miles on it. see what they say, maybe drive the toyota while the testing it being done. any maybe by then the tractor supply will get more rotella t6 in at 19.??

i thank you all for the input. i was under the impression the mystic was Mexico made? i may be wrong. heck my truck is made in Mexico. i'd much rather us oil. i think travelers is a good oil, same oil as napa, autozone, and other "house brands" may very well try that next. If one looks at the oil with a microscope, i'm a firm believer in synthetic. the molecule shape and size is alot more uniform in the synthetics. i've raced dirtbikes for near 25 years, every time i ran dyno 2 stroke oil i've blown the engine up. have yet to using synthetic oils. i also know that clean oil is best. hence the reason i got the extended life oil filter. i don't get to run my truck very hot every day. some times my trips to the job site are around the 10 mile mark. and some are well over 30. i do plug my truck in every night during the winter months. makes my coolant temp 116 in the mornin. i like the defrosted windows instead of the long idle times to defrost it. the other thing i think of are the pistons going up n down ar some 2 K RPM, scoring the walls of the cylinder with dirty oil. yes i'm weird and OCD. so the journey for a perfect oil or an close as one my come, in an imperfect world continues. thank you again.

is it cold where you live? i'm only doing it for the MPG's and the cold start up. what you think i can push this to? i don't want carbon scratching the engine. carbon is hard like diamond, i think dirty oil is bad oil.

Im bout due for an oil change. i usually run VPB 5/40. but the only place in town that has it is 28.?? a gallon. the local tractor supply has rotella T6 5/40 for 19.?? gallon. but that are all sold out. so with my new LF9028 extended service oil filter. i'm thinking amsoil at a total of 130$ something or VPB for about 96$ right now i run about 7500-8K miles on my oil. it still looks good not to black. i'll do a sample and send to blackstone at time of change. but i need to buy oil... what to buy? i have at my disposal Travelers, super tech, valvoline, rotella, mystic. i know clean oil is good. but i don't want to be throwing hard earned cash away if a better oil will last longer and be better for a few more $'s. i would love to get my hands on some of this. http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/oem-endorsed-products/73 but i can't find it online or intown. most people look at me funny when i tell them i want it. i need input!!

i think mine came from Napa for around 90$. not sure but it's not to hard to install them.

6 lug, might be 16" wheels. mine had load range D on it, had Maxxis LRD's from 09 one bubbled and i went to cooper LRE.s tows so much better now too. i don't air up to 80, i keep them at 70.

i took a 4" hole saw drilled a hole in the floor. used a dryer duct wrapped a metal screen at both ends and through the insulation it went. works great. my back bed rooms stay worm now not the usual 5-7 deg colder from pulling in cold air. i'll tell ya it was worth every bit of the 20 min it took me to install it.

Generally you want to keep the warm air under the crawl space, if yours is high humidity then pulling from there would help reduce the humidity. I pull from my crawl space, this year I've used about half the wood as normally used to.

best thing i ever did was install a fresh air kit on mine. WOW what a difference.

i use a coke. carry one in the older toyota and it'll clean terminals faster then anything i've found yet. 20+ years hasnt hurt anything yet. but who knows maybe i've been doing it wrong for that long.

i tow my 5er about 20 miles 4 times a year. of that 20 miles 7 is off road. not sure my pin weight, but total load out is around 12K on the trailer. so i would guess 2 K pin.

understand they do get great milage. but what about the D rating? why not run those.

i got 90K out of my last set. my dad got over 100K on a set. so that's the only reason i'm REALLY considering them again. else maybe the Hercules.

part numbers Tire Size, Load Index & Speed Rating MSRP $ (PER TIRE) 37130 LT285/70R17/D 121 R $315 25105 LT285/70R17/E 121 R $328 OE Code Sidewall Rim Width Range (Min/Max) Section Width on Measuring Rim Width Overall Diameter revs/mi Tread Depth (in 32nds) Max Load, Single (lb @ PSI) Max Load, Dual (lb @ PSI) Tire Weight DC BSW 7.5" - 9" 11.5" on 8.5" 32.8 635 16 3195@65 2910@65 55.8 RWL 7.5" - 9" 11.5" on 8.5" 32.8 635 16 3195@80 2910@80 58.6