Killer223

here in AZ you can get what's called a bonded title. you go to insutrance company tell them you need to get a bonded title, then yo pay the 200$ they write a note to DMV then you can get a title. however if there is a LEAN on the title your screwed. have him send you the VIN number, ask a friendly DPS or Sheriff to run it see if it's all clear. then ask DMV if they can tell you anything about it. might have to go to state police like DPS or state patrol.else stay away from it.

how do you get the Scan gauge to show those two setings? custom?

Not so sure i agree, unless you bump the starter on mine. it's at next to zero to start then it's up to 23 or so. while running. even if i do the pump cycle, and start it, still havent had problems. how would having to much PSI when off not let it start? doesn't make any logical sense to me. unless it's pushing past and flooding the engine, kinda doubt that. explain. Thanks.

do most Napas keep the BHAF in stock? whats the part numbers again?

please don't flame me for posting this.. http://youtu.be/1KiCEJoX9kE http://www.amazon.com/Age-Of-Reason-Thomas-Paine/dp/145656854X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381361900&sr=8-1&keywords=the+age+of+reason http://youtu.be/6_zwB6GLpo4

Many will make a big deal about the nomination of Janet Yellen to be the next Fed Chair, but the reality is, as long as we tolerate the Federal Reserve System and its flawed monetary policy, there will be no policy change at the Federal Reserve. Notably absent from the discussion surrounding the debt ceiling and the government shutdown is the fact that the federal government would not be able to borrow the money it needs to finance its wars, bailouts, and entitlement programs if the Federal Reserve did not continue to buy government debt.

if there are no shims then why or what would make the starter sound so much different then before i took it in? anything i can do?

so i just had the local highly recommended tranny guy rebuild my burnt toasted transmission.first thing, the starter sounds different. do these use shims like the old Chevy's? sounds like its meshing to tight. or something. is this easy to adjust?second. when in gear pushing the pedal the first say 1/4-1/2 inch is really stiff. then it loosens up as it used to be. but only while in gear, R-N-D. not so in park. might this be the "shift kit" that was installed. when in park, no issues pedal is smooth and easy as can be. just how firm do you with auto's shift? i was expecting to feel a difference after the hyped up parts list. but don't feel different to me. mu shutter in lockup is gone however. Thanks all.

set your carb setting back to stock, the stock setting should be stamped on the side of the cover. i'd bet its running lean. it'll run with air filter off, but not on. its "screams" says lean mixture. as for the alcohol, it'll loosen up varnish. it's the same as white gas or Coleman fuel.. mix a small can like a court maybe and idk the amount of oil needed. math isn't something i can do right now. tired. - - - Updated - - - set your carb setting back to stock, the stock setting should be stamped on the side of the cover. i'd bet its running lean. it'll run with air filter off, but not on. its "screams" says lean mixture. as for the alcohol, it'll loosen up varnish. it's the same as white gas or Coleman fuel.. mix a small can like a court maybe and idk the amount of oil needed. math isn't something i can do right now. tired.

ah yes the 044. excellent saw. i still think there was some gas residue. it gummed up something. the denatured alcohol should fix it right up.

this advise is what i would do. how ever, if you kill it don't blame me. Denatured alcohol, put some into the tank witha slight splash of oil. it'll loosen up any varnish that has formed through out. the in tank filters should be changed. you might have a clogged jet based on the fact it'll run without air filters. if the alcohol does not work then just take the carb off n clean it. What saw are we talking about?

i was talking about the added soot. the black stuff. on my dirt bikes and chains saws there is black soot on both of them, more so on the DB from the 32:1 ratio.

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how much 2 cycle would be to much or harmful? wouldn't it clog up the turbo faster?

Here in AZ i burn Oak, Aspen, juniper, and sometimes pine. im my small house i generally go through about cord of each, aspen oak juniper a year.

i am interested in the fix yuo find for this. mine will only work sometimes. if i lift the shift leaver up like i'm go into park they'll come on. or just wiggling the shifter makes them blink. so i think the switch is on the steering column somewheres.

Im not sure, i've not had just one go out on me yet. i would guess i can unplug one and see. but for now. it's working great. with the check valves in them they should allow fuel to pass through bu not siphon back.

With all these people having problems with the after market pumps, why not stick with stock? i ahev the stock in tank and the stock on block pumps, i have average 23-25 PSI, from idle up to 70 mph, when i floor it it only drops to 19. stock parts readily available, plenty fo fuel flow... i don't get it.... maybe i'm missing something. Oh i've added a edge comp with hot unlock also. so my smarty is on 2, edge on 3 for now.. i'm getting transmission built tomorrow.

The trannys in the 50-60's was similar to the moderns Honda CVT, it's an oil swash plate, it uses oil pressure to spin a swash plate, I believe it does indeed have a torque converter. They are a zero mantainence CVT no belts or chains to wear out. My 05 Rancher had one, its was a rancher 400AT

The CVT is similar to what one would find on a snow mobile, or the side by sides of today. it's Belt driven. Belts can and do break. they are incredibly reliable though. the belt on my Rhino went 28,000 miles before exploding. it gave no warning sign either, just driving along then it quit moving forward. no bang, no clank, just no more acceleration. In the video, those are more like the Polaris and snowmobile clutches. where the one is spinning before grabbing the belt. The yamaha and other also use a wet clutch. which saves the burning factor of the belt, but you also start moving at a lower RPM. a way to tell when the belt is need replaced, is speed vs rpm, if you notice on the same stretch of road it used to take you 2800 rpm to do 60 mph and now it take 3000 then your belt is warn and isn't riding up the sheave as far so the effective gear ration isn't changing enough. and or the wights have become lodged and the clutch needs servicing.

machine shops, well if it's a competent shop then they should;d be able to bore and hone then line bore the block no problems., heads are a different story, make sure they know the ins and outs of the cummins head. as for assembly of said engine parts, get a good DIESEL shop to do the work. one that has a proven tract record with the cummins. but seeings how the truck will fall apart around the engine, not alont make it to the point of needing rebuilt. LOL.

i want some of your home grown tomato's!!!!Nice score of the wood too.!!

Welcome to the forums. Fuel pressure gauge is a must have on any VP truck. as for an additive most here use about a quart of wallyworld 2 cycle oil per full tank of fuel. or maybe an OZ per gallon. make use not to add a quart every time you fill up. as you'll be adding to much oil after a while. unless you run it empty.the EJWA is a great programmer. are you planning pn tapping the pump.? you might fill out your signature so we know what mods you have, if an auto adding the power might kill and untouched tranny.

plugged exhaust?

GM has been using them sense 93-94, they looked like a part of the radio or maybe the amp, bolted behind the ashtray on the radio housing. ford has been using them sense around 00-01. they are data recorders. most are so integrated into the car removing would likely limp mode your car. being the i was in the auto industry for a few years. i've has some interactions with these. http://www.docstoc.com/docs/75364317/Event-Data-Recorder-Vehicle-List That list is not the complete list of vehicles.