Killer223

Factory wheels, i have 17" and aftermarket 18" have a chance for a good deal on factory 18's and or factory 20" and i can't decide. Thoughts?

mag wheel cleaner the etching one. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/eagle-one-etching-mag-wheel-cleaner-spray-23-oz-836604/7030000-P i'm not sure about the coating, a good clear coat should be good, might check with a local auto paint supplier. here i use a local PPG store they have what you'll need.

i invested in a drill powered drain snake years ago. it's saved me many times. worth looking into.

All aftermarket will poke out some. i've never seen an aftermarket that tucks like OEM.

As much as i do not like the idea of a driver-less car. imagine the taxi drivers are going to raise a stink over this. how about someone hacking your car, having you killed, then erasing all traces of said hack. or how about having to "jailbrake" your car in order to break the speed limit, (passing people) or just having fun. it could in theory have one perk. car drops you off at work, then get's hailed by a ride share (uber, lift) and makes you some money during the day. that is about the only good thing i can see. the rest outweigh the one good though. i've said it before, they want to stop humans from driving, and take the Cash away as well. Control control control.

Welcome to the forums, so you are saying the truck cranks over just fine but isn't firing off correct? first check for codes, i'm sure the Mini max does this. we need to know if there is any. Next does the mini max show Rail pressure? We need to know this while cranking. the computer needs to see around 5K to fire the injectors. i think you might try reflashing the computer with the mini max. i think the mini max can load custom tunes as well. might research your to see if it's the stock minimax or someones custom ones.

take the CP3 supply line banjo loose the top of the CP3, bump starter see how much fuel comes from said line. if you have fuel, then the next thing is the pressure relief on top of rail, you can take it off and plug it or some times they can stick open. if you get fuel from the pressure relief banjo, then it needs to be replaced. fallow this video for instructions. report back with results. I'll add if you take the banjo off the return port and there is more than a slight dribble, it's injectors.

thanks for the info, i've not been able to source the mobile locally, i can get the Valvoline equivalent though. i've used Swepco's 711 on a few trans and it's always been great, on my current G56 with Amsoil MTG, i'm thinking about switching to something else soon. my manual says trans fluid ever 30K. seems excessive to me. but none the less. when i get 50K on it i'ma switch. might try this mobile stuff you speak of.

i thought the 12's had 2 fuel filters... a water separator at the back and another somewhere else. even still you need closer to 5K rail for the injectors to fire. might be time for new injectors, there is a return flow rate test you can do to determine this. I'm thinking you have to much return flow.

Here's a thought for you. Why do they sell the kit that requires the converter to stay locked when you install the EB on a 47/48 truck. you want direct coupling to the engine, with it unlocked it can freewheel. no braking effect. my 04 for instance, i can go down a 17 mile 6% grade hill unlocked and coast the whole way if i've tapped the brakes at the top, however if i just let off and never touch the brakes and the converter stayed locked, it'll slow my down to around 35 before it unlocks.

i have an early 04, stock intake. ambient temps in the am around 25°. i'll have to look to see if the Edge can read those settings. if im harder on the truck i can get it to 140 in about 8 miles. but i rather keep my boost low, 3-5 at most. the flap i had open was top center, today i opened the top and both sides. was able to get 180 before i made it to Sedona, ambient temps when i started was 25 and 45 at destination. i didn't make note of the miles but would guess around the 15-18 mile mark. No fan action till i was heading home from Sedona and it's mostly up hill. ambient temps around 60°, coolant temps were then 210-214 and lots of fan to cool it off, got home and took winter front off the 04 and put it on the 08. i do know my stock intake no longer has the little foam between the box and fender, i've thought about using some duct tape to bridge the gap, but also thought maybe it's no that big of deal....

i have my EDGE CTS, it's temp mirrors the dash.

Ac is off, vents were on floor. Head pressures don’t lock fan up till around 350. So it still doesn’t make sense to me. Coolant temps as noted were well below tstat even opening. Maybe it’s time for a new michanical gauge. But if the temp shown on the dash is the same one the ecm uses to. Control the fan.. I’m lost yet again. Frustrating....

Thank you for the detailed response. This is the first I’ve heard of the fan hub having a thermal sensor. I was under the impression it was all ecm controlled. I did have one flap open, tomorrow I’ll test with three open. Its a mopar winterfront. If that helps.

i might get flamed for this. but... well here goes. I think the added and brighter lights ruins ones night vision. people put HID and LED in the 5000-6000K color range and in non projector housings. we humans have decent night vision. but when you add brighter lights it degrades your ability to see the side of the road. To a point that if your light are not lighting it up you can't see it. where the older yellower lights let your eyes adjust to the night, and you can see the edge of the road better. i think most newer cars/truck dash lights are getting way to bright as well. my RX8 had awesome HID's at 6K color, but i could never see animals on the side of the road, where my old 93toyota has pos 25 year old lights and you can see the road well, and animals on the sides of the road as well. sure you can over drive the light cause they don't shine 20 miles down the road, but for a reasonable speed, the dimer lights are WAY better than lots of bright lights. IMO. Off road however, it's a totally different game. Racing Baja we wanted the widest and brightest light we could power.

04 is light almond pearl. needed a long box. 08, some kinda grey i've not looked into it's name. wanted a mega cab and hand shaker.

and hope it's not a LEO!!!

installed winter front on my 04, left one flap open, proceeded to drive to town, about a 12 mile trip. most up hill. anyhow about 4 miles in the temp gauge was reading 120, but the fan clutch locked up like in a high heat situation. it cooled off some, another mile or so later temps up to 140ish, again fan locks up. so after my trip to the paint store, i opened 2 more flaps, head 3 miles away to sons school, fan locks in again and tempos are just barely 180. i'm reading temps on the dash and the edge. they both read close to each other. Trans temp never above 140, i guess questions would be, why is the fan locking up? temps from what i can see don't warrant it. so i'm at a loss. ida thought that the winter front would help, but if the fans gonna be in lock up all the time it'll negate the mpg gain i'm hoping for. this trucks has always taken FOR EVER to get warm. no matter the t-stat installed. i can drive from flagstaff to sedona from my house it's about a 32 mile trip, and it'll never get to temp. stays 140 ish. even worse if i have to run the heater. yet i can start it and drop into gear at idle, and i'll be warm in 5-7 min. but idling kills mpg's.

good luck getting to see the old parts, if it's warranty, FCA gets them. if it were me, i'd take lotsa pics from under the truck, mark all the nuts/bolts with paint, and compare when it's complete.

best thing i ever did was replace my wire winch cable with the synthetic rope, but thanks for the info!!!

https://flagstaff.craigslist.org/wto/d/4-18x8-8on65-inch-alum-wheels/6432955086.html https://flagstaff.craigslist.org/wto/d/ram-2500-tire-wheel-set/6415695914.html food for thought, also i'll have my 18's for sale here soon. less the tires.

i should add, i didn't even worry about my fuel gelling. i purchased at major places, Sams Club, and Mavericks. even the one morning when it was -18, truck fired right up.

Well the trip was awesome. We headed out of Flag on the 23'rd. spent the first night in Rifle. was nice drive through Moab. steady speed of 70 everywhere i could. then headed up over the Vail pass, and on up to Rapid city. for the night. Santa came for my son, even dropped off a small 2 foot tree and a few presents. Christmas day was darn right COLD, woke up to -18, then we had a heat wave up to -3. the heater in our room broke Christmas night, Son thinks he (santa) needed a step when crawling out the window and broke it!! he's 12 people. Drove though to see the Mt Rushmore. what an amazing site for sure. just WOW. then on down around to a few other towns i can't really remember. and headed back to hotel for another night. did i mention it was cold? -6 when we went in for the night. next day we went to dead wood, and a few other places i can't think of. wife was chatting my ear off. i do know we scoped out some cool placed to try and camp in the coming year. so next trip i'll be dragging my 5th wheel with me. headed to Devil tower next. then down to rifle again. spent the night there and drove to Ourey and Silverton, (wife's favorite places). stayed at Best Western in Cortez, best beds of the whole trip. then this morning headed home. i gotta say, the leveled truck is SOOO much better crossing the res than a stock ride height. truck did average of about 19 mpg. some tanks were very low, having to warm up in -3 to -15 was not fun.and some little over. have lots of dashcam video, and awesome memories. overall i had an awesome time. very highly recommend the trip for anyone thinking. and us being there on christmas, NO ONE AROUND!!! we were the only humans we saw. saw lots of White tail, and a few mully's. 2 elk. several close encounters with Bald Eagles. great trip. thanks for everyone's trip advise.

i didn't have good luck with them in my 04. i went to a cummins one and it's ok now. But Mike has great luck with the Napa one, and i believe they are a Gates. i am wrong sometimes though. you could always drill a hole in it for overheat protection.

i think you'll need to take it to the dealer and have it flashed with your vin, and the ABS should go away.